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Old 06 November 2012, 03:32   #11
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Snap-on makes a simple inexpensive amperage load tester which just sit across the positive batt lead to the starter motor. Most outboard draw 55+ amps when engaged, a dead cell would show a start reading of appx 45 amps indicating a bad cell. The voltage would be at 12.6 or so, but could not provide the needed juice due to a bad cell.
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Old 06 November 2012, 06:20   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightfisher
Snap-on makes a simple inexpensive amperage load tester which just sit across the positive batt lead to the starter motor. Most outboard draw 55+ amps when engaged, a dead cell would show a start reading of appx 45 amps indicating a bad cell. The voltage would be at 12.6 or so, but could not provide the needed juice due to a bad cell.
That's the first time I've heard "Snap On" & "inexpensive" in the same sentence
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Old 06 November 2012, 11:36   #13
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Originally Posted by Nightfisher View Post
Snap-on makes a simple inexpensive amperage load tester which just sit across the positive batt lead to the starter motor. Most outboard draw 55+ amps when engaged, a dead cell would show a start reading of appx 45 amps indicating a bad cell. The voltage would be at 12.6 or so, but could not provide the needed juice due to a bad cell.
Kind of a blanket statement. Different outboards will require different amounts of current to crank; different batteries will supply different max currents from the cells (hence the different cranking amp ratings.)

Idea is sound, but you need to know the "normal" starting current draw for your setup before you can deduce what your present numbers mean.

jky
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Old 06 November 2012, 14:04   #14
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For those that need a battery... Go Outdoors are selling Numax 75ah Leisure batteries for 60.
I spotted this deal too but don't know if Numax are any good? My engine is a 2004 4 st Mercury 90 ELPT and I don't have a clue what cranking amperage it requires but suspect my existing battery is on its last legs as it always struggles from cold and turns the engine over very weakly for a few seconds before she jumps into life.
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Old 09 November 2012, 10:32   #15
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That's the first time I've heard "Snap On" & "inexpensive" in the same sentence
LOL, their tools are expensive. But the amp draw meter, the type that sit's over the postive battery to started motor wire is not all that expensive. It will catch and display extreme amperage draw outside of average draw range for autos or outboards.
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Old 09 November 2012, 10:39   #16
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Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post
Kind of a blanket statement. Different outboards will require different amounts of current to crank; different batteries will supply different max currents from the cells (hence the different cranking amp ratings.)

Idea is sound, but you need to know the "normal" starting current draw for your setup before you can deduce what your present numbers mean.

jky
Talking batteries, though certainly knowing what your outboard-type starter draws is helpful as would knowing the outside temperature v batt and starter draw.
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Old 10 November 2012, 04:45   #17
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I put twin 130 amp batteries set up with multiple battery switch. Always ample power and can switch to single battery when at anchor knowing you always have full battery for starting. Best thing we ever did.
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Old 10 November 2012, 06:05   #18
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I put twin 130 amp batteries set up with multiple battery switch. Always ample power and can switch to single battery when at anchor knowing you always have full battery for starting. Best thing we ever did.
Our set up is the same with a split charge system. I can use either battery for start and/or "domestic" depending upon switch position, with both being charged whilst the engine is running despite the switch position.
Rest easy at anchor knowing there'll always be a battery to start the engine.....

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Old 28 November 2012, 11:28   #19
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Battery

You should use a very durable battery for this. Must be long lasting.
Is it Numax 75ah Leisure battery have a good quality??
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