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Old 24 April 2013, 22:48   #11
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The Yamaha manual states battery should be 70-100ah and 252-360kc.
Ours is 41ah and 360cca. What difference does that make?
(Kc and cca are not typos!)
It's not dependant on the battery as long as it's a 12v battery and it's connected correctly.
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Old 25 April 2013, 05:33   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajstars View Post
The Yamaha manual states battery should be 70-100ah and 252-360kc.
Ours is 41ah and 360cca. What difference does that make?
(Kc and cca are not typos!)
I would borrow a "bigger" battery( 80 ah) and test it out. I have been tould that using a smaller ah battery than recomended might caus an increase in voltage(when battery is fully charged, possible due to smaller resistance). 41ah is pretty small compared to 70-100ah recomendation?
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Old 25 April 2013, 05:49   #13
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Those are my thoughts too. There are plenty of threads on not using a maintenance free battery on other forums so I am surprised no one has views on that here! Should I be looking at the Leisure type batteries then?
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Old 25 April 2013, 12:14   #14
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If the switch is intermittent, you'll get voltage spikes as the battery connection drops in/out.
But not on the load side. You are, in effect having an intermittent resistor in line with the supply voltage. Any short term spike as the resistance is removed is unlikely to trigger an overvoltage warning on the GPS, as it will be a very short duration event.

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Old 25 April 2013, 12:17   #15
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But not on the load side. You are, in effect having an intermittent resistor in line with the supply voltage. Any short term spike as the resistance is removed is unlikely to trigger an overvoltage warning on the GPS, as it will be a very short duration event.

jky
Agree. I'd look at the voltage directly across the rectifier before messing with the battery or the switch. If its >16V there's your problem.
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Old 25 April 2013, 14:14   #16
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Guys, I'm sat here telling you it happened to me with EXACTLY the same motor and the battery switch was the solution. It's not unlikely, it IS what the problem was and it gave exactly the same symptoms.

It's also the cheapest and easiest thing to check-just remove the battery switch so the battery is permanently live and take it for a run.


By the nature of the way Yamaha rectifier/regulators work, they won't overvoltage if the unit fails. They generally just stop charging or drop output right down.
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Old 25 April 2013, 16:53   #17
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It's also the cheapest and easiest thing to check-just remove the battery switch so the battery is permanently live and take it for a run.
Don't even have to do that. Take a single jumper cable and clip one end to the switch pole and the other to the throw, and you've bypassed the switch.

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Old 25 April 2013, 16:58   #18
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Don't even have to do that. Take a single jumper cable and clip one end to the switch pole and the other to the throw, and you've bypassed the switch.

jky
That'd work, but I wouldn't fancy the consequences if it fell off while trying it out.
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Old 25 April 2013, 18:59   #19
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I'm still confused - what switch are we talking about here?
My battery is direct to the engine - the only switch I have is for auxiliary equipment.
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Old 25 April 2013, 20:22   #20
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I'm still confused - what switch are we talking about here?
My battery is direct to the engine - the only switch I have is for auxiliary equipment.
Ok, check your battery connections then.It could be a bad contact there. See if the terminals get hot during starting, or they wiggle about.Both the +ve and -ve. Check the connections on the rectifier/regulator unit as well.

If it is a regulator problem, Electrex will be able to supply a new rec/reg unit at a lot less than Yamaha will want for one.
It won't be your battery in any case. The alternator on that motor is old tech and it doesn't have a massive output. Certainly nowhere near enough to overwhelm a battery the size of the one you have.

You could do with an isolator switch on the battery by the way.
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