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Old 19 November 2003, 16:00   #1
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Advice needed on wiring up a 3 gang switch

Hi I need help !

I have been given a 3 gang marine fused switch panel unfortunately without any instructions which I would like to run 3 things off namely bilge pump, compass light and fishfinder. All the wires on the panel are black coloured so I'm not sure how to wire the panel up to the batery and the devices. There is 1 black wire with bare end coming off each of the switch blocks, each switch block is connected with 1 black wire to the fuse holder and 1 long metal bar connected across all 3 of the round fuse holders with a round flat loop on the end. Can anyone with some wiring knowledge tell me which wires connect to which. I can send a photo of the panel by email if required.

Many thanks,

Mark
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Old 19 November 2003, 16:04   #2
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send me a photo please and I'll tell you what to do

cheers
Stuart
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Old 19 November 2003, 16:16   #3
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Email sent

Hi,

I've just sent you an email.

Mark.
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Old 19 November 2003, 16:18   #4
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Connect metal bar that feeds all 3 fuse holders to positive supply via battery isolator, then connect the positive of each "service" to its own switch . The negative of each service needs to be connected to a common earth.

Ideally you should wire direct to the switches without using the short "black" wires to have minimum joins in the circuit.

If you wish to have the bilge pump working on a float switch for when the vessel is unattended, you will need a seperate feed to the float switch direct from the battery with it's own fuse!
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Old 19 November 2003, 16:19   #5
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Wiring

As a sparks I will attempt to answer this, run a negative - directly from your battery to each appliance be it pump, lights etc, you can loop the negative from one appliance or item to another item.

The switches /fuses are only going to handle positve or +
on the side of the fuse panel that has the copper strap connecting each of one side of the fuse run a positive or+ back to the battery, the positive goes across the bottom of the fuse panel now and tro each fuse and out each lead from the outgoing side of the fuse to the incoming side of the switch and simply from the outgoing side of each switch connect a live to each appliance or item. You now have 12 volts across each item once you close a switch hope this helps gavin
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Old 19 November 2003, 16:37   #6
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bilge pump

If i were to wire the bilge pump i would give a possative to the pump & switch negative that way giving less arching on the float switch
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Old 19 November 2003, 16:52   #7
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All the above advice is sound. looking at the switch you could de solder the short flyleads and then directly solder the devices to the switch terminal.

Also make sure you fuse the devices approriately. If you don't solder then use a crimp kit to join the cables and seal the connectors up with some silicone to stop moisture getting in
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Old 19 November 2003, 17:27   #8
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Re: bilge pump

Quote:
Originally posted by graham hope
If i were to wire the bilge pump i would give a possative to the pump & switch negative that way giving less arching on the float switch
Graham, I see from your profile your an "AA" man, well I can only assume that you don't get called out to many electrical problems!

Why do you think that there will be less of an arc if you switch the neg, do you think that all the volts are "tired" after they've spun the bilge pump.

Surely the purpose of a Forum is to ask, and then receive sound advice.

**AA, the fourth and last emergency service**
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Old 19 November 2003, 17:36   #9
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Do boats use the general metal work such as A frames as there negative like cars/bikes. and if not why not.
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Old 19 November 2003, 21:45   #10
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Boats like F/glass cars always use Neg return wires as the general 'chassis' is non conductive. you could in theory use a frame as a conductor but it not be as reliable as hard wiring, even more inportant in a marine application.
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