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Old 20 November 2003, 03:18   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by thewavehumper
If you don't solder then use a crimp kit to join the cables and seal the connectors up with some silicone to stop moisture getting in
If you are going to use crimp connections, invest 20 in a decent ratchet type crimp tool and don't use the crappy crimp pliers that you get in most kits. It will make a lot of difference to the quality and longevity of your connections!

If you can't find one at your chandlers or car spares shop, Maplin have them, stock code JH19V

John
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Old 20 November 2003, 03:22   #12
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And don't use crap crimps either, for any connections that might encounter moisture, you should always use heat shrinkable connections!
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Old 20 November 2003, 06:12   #13
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And where you can Solder connections....Nag nag nag......
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Old 20 November 2003, 06:18   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dirk Diggler
And don't use crap crimps either, for any connections that might encounter moisture, you should always use heat shrinkable connections!
what's a heat shrinkable connector, or did you mean heat shrink sleeving over the connector.

I am intrigued is there a nifty device out there I don't know about
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Old 20 November 2003, 07:27   #15
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you also have to be aware of electrolytic action causing corrosion in metal hulls and metalwork.
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Old 20 November 2003, 08:10   #16
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Hi wavelegover

have you seen the adhesive filled heat shrink sleeving? thats completley waterproof.
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Old 20 November 2003, 09:23   #17
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hey you listen you learn, No but it be interested in it as I am gonna be doing some rewiring soon.
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Old 20 November 2003, 10:59   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by thewavehumper
what's a heat shrinkable connector, or did you mean heat shrink sleeving over the connector.
Heat shrinkable crimps are what they are, the insulation around them is the same as h/s sleeving, with adhesive inside. They are available from most good suppliers in all the normal sizes. Not cheap, around 25p each, but what price is perfection!!
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Old 20 November 2003, 13:59   #19
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wicked, no that's new to me but I can see the benefits in it. I'd better get the RS catalogue out
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Old 21 November 2003, 13:40   #20
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Electrics

This is a common problem when thinking about electrics
Quote:
Why do you think that there will be less of an arc if you switch the neg, do you think that all the volts are "tired" after they've spun the bilge pump.
The volts dont spin anything, the current or amps are what do the work here,
the volts or rather the difference between the two terminals on a battery are only a means for pushing the current along the wires and getting that current to do a job like turning a pump, you only get a current flow with a potential difference or "voltage", its just something you can measure across a pump but it dosent spin the pump the current does, float switches are designed to take load and switch loads providing you dont exceed there rated switching capabilities, arcs will happen in any switch if you switch it under load.What i dont believe in is leaving permanent feeds at float switches to run pumps like bilge pumps, you may as well not bother with battery isolator switches if you wire permanent feeds to float switches, as you can be guaranteed no matter how good the quality of the switch, when its in damp or wet environments it will leak electricially, causing stray currents only miliamnps but enough to drive electrolisis on the boat.
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