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Old 01 February 2010, 12:52   #11
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Ok, many thanks for the below guys. Makes sense I think:

So positive from power / switch through the first two lights +ve terminal and to the last light. Then negative back from the last light through the other two lights -ve terminal and back to the battery?

Easy suggestions for earthing the A Frame?
No ,
the positive bit is right but just earth the frame to the battery and each light individually to the frame.
Make sense?
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Old 01 February 2010, 13:11   #12
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Easy suggestions for earthing the A Frame?
Barge pole!!!!!! As a prime example, look at the taillights of any >10YO
Ford Escort, Rover anything, the list goes on. That lack of a good connection between the light cluster & the body results in all sorts of strange things like the flashing of the tail lamps, except for when the brakes are applied when the indicator lights up..... Beofre the tech police jump in, no, you won't get that on the nav lights, but it illustrates a point well!

-> Use a dedicated wire! :thumbs)


Parallel wiring: One red from battery to fuse, then to switch, then to First Nav. Light. Meanwhile, Black wire form battery straight to Nav. light. Then take another red & another balck, connect the two reds to one side of the fitting, the two bblacks to the other, & lead your new red & black to the next light. Repeat for as many lights on that circuit as you need!


I have used trailer cable to my frame, terminated in an IP rated box, onto which my anchor light sits http://rib.net/forum/attachment.php?...7&d=1256821601. (Note this pic taken in it's "MK1 Guise", I was also showing R/G at that point and not doing >7Knots with only a white....)

I decided to have a separate white so that if the main engine dies, I can run at reduced battery consumption (LED lamp for the anchor / sub 7Knt lamp) and the "full boona" wired as above for when I got the main engine to keep the battery charged. I used a 2- way centre off switch so only one set of lights will show at any time.
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Old 04 February 2010, 13:36   #13
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so tomd, all done? successful?
or more assistance required, if you need a drawing just ask...
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Old 21 November 2016, 15:55   #14
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I know this is an old thread, but trying to avoid unnecessarily create new ones. I get parallel vs series, but not sure how best to wire the a frame to achieve this with port and starboard. I will then keep the white on a separate circuit/switch as suggested.

Also, how best to feed wire through a frame/pull out at the relevant points?
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Old 21 November 2016, 16:19   #15
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If there are old wires in the A-frame just use some twine on the end of each one and draw it back out from where it enters the frame. Sounds easy, needs a bit of push/pull as it works back through the obstacles inside the frame.

I lost one of the twine runs when it chaffed on a screw tip inside the frame. Stiff single core earth wire was all I could find to use as a fish wire to push through the frame (Sunday evening). Use each hole in the frame as a goal to catch your fish wire. Make a hook from the end of some copper wire to fish it out at each screw hole in A-frame if you need to.
If there are holes on each side and top of frame for the lights then you have several short runs you can join. Fishing a wire short distances is easier than trying to get one long run in.
Lots of pushing/pulling. In the end some silicone lubricant helped the wire to run much more easily.

Being a pessimist and the runs being relatively short I avoided any joints out in the open (or stuffed inside the base of the A-frame). Each light has own run of cable from light fitting to inside of console, where red and green supplies are on one switch. White light has own circuit and switch. The extra few metres of cable cost less than 10 and no joints are exposed to the elements.
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Old 21 November 2016, 16:25   #16
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Originally Posted by wookie 1 View Post
I know this is an old thread, but trying to avoid unnecessarily create new ones. I get parallel vs series, but not sure how best to wire the a frame to achieve this with port and starboard. I will then keep the white on a separate circuit/switch as suggested.

Also, how best to feed wire through a frame/pull out at the relevant points?
Welcome to Ribnet

It's realistically far easier if you've got the room in the A-frame to run pos and neg wires up for each nav light

Try feeding a thin lazy line through the a-frame from each hole. A hoover helped me do mine
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Old 21 November 2016, 17:47   #17
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Took a bit of planning with wire lengths and only awkward part was running the earth in and out of all the fittings. But meant no connections in the loom to fail.

SDG
As Jism says, save yourself this hassle. Ground the "A" frame and ground the lights via the fixing screws. that way it's only one wire for each light and these can be "daisy chained". I wouldn't silkaflex up the holes because it'll be a bu@@er when you want to add other things to the frame. eg aerials, GPS puck, work lights....
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Old 21 November 2016, 17:58   #18
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A-frame Nav Lights - Wiring Q ??!

Why?! Introducing part of the boat into the equation is asking for trouble with corrosion and interacting metals.

My (old) way of doing it kept the electrics in one cable.

If you 'daisy chain' make sure it's not in series or the lights won't operate at full power.

Don't try to wire a boat like a car!

SDG
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Old 21 November 2016, 17:59   #19
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Why?! Introducing part of the boat into the equation is asking for trouble with corrosion and interacting metals.

My (old) way of doing it kept the electrics in one cable.

Don't try to wire a boat like a car!

SDG

+1
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Old 21 November 2016, 18:02   #20
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Don't try to wire a boat like a house, That's not is how it's done in your outboard. Why double the cable length when you're still going to have to join it somewhere.
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