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Old 27 August 2009, 17:42   #11
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I think it's the other way around actually. Its power (watts) that determines the capacity, also shown as VA for some reason sometimes. Though I think voltages is relevent in some instances where the contacts are close together and not suitably isolated for high voltage use.

Word of caution using mains power style connecters, either IEC or gardening type, is to make sure no-one accidently thinks your pump is mains powered and plugs it into a 240v supply. Could be quite serious if they did
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Old 28 August 2009, 06:37   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erin View Post
Word of caution using mains power style connecters, either IEC or gardening type, is to make sure no-one accidently thinks your pump is mains powered and plugs it into a 240v supply. Could be quite serious if they did
Had't thought of that, thanks.
I'd also better go and remove that Bleach from the kitchen that I carefully stored in an Evian bottle

I'm actually going to order battery connectors like Jono suggested from Vehicle Wiring Products, but from an ebay source that are cheaper.

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Old 28 August 2009, 08:21   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erin View Post
I think it's the other way around actually. Its power (watts) that determines the capacity, also shown as VA for some reason sometimes. Though I think voltages is relevent in some instances where the contacts are close together and not suitably isolated for high voltage use.

Word of caution using mains power style connecters, either IEC or gardening type, is to make sure no-one accidently thinks your pump is mains powered and plugs it into a 240v supply. Could be quite serious if they did

A very good point! it could be easily done!

VA is for AC circuits that are reactive. volts x amps x power factor.
Volts x amps isnt watts in AC reactive circuits due to phase shift between voltage and current. I will shut up now. its irellavant on a 12 volt circuit and very boring theory
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Old 04 October 2009, 14:14   #14
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Update

In the end I purchased some 50A Anderson connectors from ebay at £1.85ea.

I decided to have a flying lead with a connector permanently wired in the console, as it could be a useful supply for other things.

Using some 50A cable, I made up the lead shown, which connects direct to one of the battery –ve terminals, and via a fuse block direct to the output from the battery selector switch.
The ‘flying’ end has a length of cord under the braiding, tied to the connector at one end and knotted at the other end. Using some heatshrink and a stainless steel clamp in front of the knot ensures any strain is taken by the cord and not the cables.

All I need to do now is add a clip to hold the loose connector when not in use. Tucking it behind the battery cables will do for now though.

I wanted to still have the option of using the pump to inflate airbeds using the car battery, so cut the cable and inserted two connectors near the crocodile clip end.

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Old 05 October 2009, 07:34   #15
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I don't quite see why you've got this hidden away in the console, which I imagine is not very easily accessible? What about a flush mounted socket on the backward facing side of the console, like this.

Then. instead of having a plug for every appliance you might want to power up, make up a flying lead with the plug at one end and yellow bullet crimps (m/f for polarity) at the other end and the reciprocal on each appliance lead.
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Old 05 October 2009, 07:41   #16
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That plug and socket looks good, I could have done with your post several weeks ago.

However I did do a bit of research and may have rejected that one on cost.

Budget for this project was sub £10 all in, and that plug and socket is probably a lot more than that.

Thanks anyway.

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Old 05 October 2009, 08:45   #17
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Watch those croc clips don't come into contact with one another when your pump is plugged in.
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Old 05 October 2009, 08:57   #18
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Watch those croc clips don't come into contact with one another when your pump is plugged in.
DHD
The croc clips won't be connected when the pump is plugged in to the boat.
In fact its impossible to do so.
They will only be attached when I want to use the pump off the car battery.

I know what you mean though, I hate jump leads.

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Old 05 October 2009, 09:10   #19
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Ah yes, I see now - you have a separate power source via the crocs. I thought they were running parallel on the same lead as your Anderson connectors.
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Old 05 October 2009, 11:16   #20
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Budget for this project was sub £10 all in, and that plug and socket is probably a lot more than that.

Thanks anyway.
Yep - the plug/socket is £30-£40.
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