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Old 30 May 2013, 18:37   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim M View Post
The box will always be in the same direction relative to the boat no matter which side it's mounted.
Aye .. just meant the cable hatch isn't visible on lhs mount and handle therefor can't be on same side so didn't understand the pic

.... Anyways keen to hear the outcome fellas
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Old 30 May 2013, 23:02   #22
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Your problem is inside the control box. The lower lever(1st) picture has 3 teeth on it that works from the main gear handle. They are not engaged correctly, badly worn or the plastic bush is missing. Take to bits and have a look.
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Old 31 May 2013, 02:04   #23
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The neutral lock works when the handle is flipped over (the box is designed to be reversible). I had two of these on my last rib bolted together with one flipped acting as one unit on twins.

Best way I found to sort out problems with cables is to remove the ends from the engine side and then watch how the bare ends move relative to the engine levers. With the ends removed you can't overstress the box or engine levers. Once you are sure you have the cables the right way around and moving in the right manner you can then get the ends on right. I always found that there was never as much screwed into the ends as there should be for comfort.

Are you in Aberdeenshire?

Richard
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Old 31 May 2013, 03:52   #24
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just north of Aberdeen at ellon everyone seems to be saying something different i guess its hard when they can not see it there self .
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Old 31 May 2013, 04:02   #25
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Hi Richard i was hoping i did not have to change the box back around as it did not work any better when on the other side and everything seems to be working well to do with the box anyway are you close to me or in town . Lawrence
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Old 31 May 2013, 04:15   #26
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I'm going to try & write this as simply as possible as earthdog has already said we have confused him. Hopefully this will summarise the techy advice above in followable steps.

The guys are saying your cable connectors look like the box is in "full throttle forward", even though the lever is in the neutral position.

So, follow this step by step:

With the control box "as is", disconnect the cables at one end. (this will take the engine out the equation, doesn't matter which end you disconnect)

Tests:
1) With the lever in Neutral position, can you engage F & R without lifting the red catch?

If Yes, when you moved the lever across from the other side, there is a white plastic "half moon" with a notch that lives under the lever, held in by 2 coutersunk screws. That should have gone too - move it now!

If no, you know Neutral position on the box is allegedly where it should be.


2) With the lever in neutral position , can you lift the fast idle lever and (pull the deadman before you try this one) - will the engine starter turn on the key with the shift lever in neutral?


If yes to both, then there is something likely wrongly assembled inside the box. Post back as that will take a bit of explaining. (but as you presumbaly haven't taken the innards apart I doublt this will be a "yes")

If no to either (more likely both), then unscrew the lever, move it 90 degrees (to WOT F or R, my money is on F), screw it on & pull it back to neutral. (If it doesn't go back to neutral, put it on the other way).

Try test 2 again. Once you get the fast idle lever working & starter turning with the lever in neutral position, re- connect the cables & if it all seems to work properly-ish, fine tune the cables as you have been.


It's the thing with those boxes that the lever can be mounted at 90 degree incrememnts relative to the gubbins inside the box. I have an old 1960s Teleflex control that you could put the lever on upside down if you wanted! Idea being you could mount it with the cables coming out vertically & still have a "conventional " lever position.
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Old 31 May 2013, 04:50   #27
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Its a yes to all of that and starter turning when in neutral, and no i have not had the innards apart . would it help to take a new pick of inside when in neutral , will go take one just now .
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Old 31 May 2013, 05:49   #28
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Yamaha control box problem

this what it looks like well in neutral.Click image for larger version

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Old 31 May 2013, 07:25   #29
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OK, when you push it into F & R, one of those levers will follow it (i.e move forwards & backwards). The other should then move to open the throttle.

Now, the puzzling thing is that one of them is hard against the end of the slot, and I think Yam throttles are pull to open?

It's been a while since I had mine apart, but can anyone remember if these are "reversible"? (although if you haven't pulled the mechanism to bits it's unlikely that it will have changed on it's own!)

Although something isn't right if it worked OK over the other side of the console.....



If we can't figure this out this afternoon I'll go home tonight & take mine to bits for a comparison.
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Old 31 May 2013, 08:17   #30
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Yamaha control box problem

Sorry if i misled you, but it has never worked with me, i got it second-hand to go with this outboard and no matter what side i have had it on it has not made any difference.
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