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Old 20 August 2014, 16:36   #11
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Country: Finland
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How about a 5 inch manual jack plate style CMC-65 ? You get balance more to stern, you don't need to mod the transom and the "relative" height of the engine will be lower, propeller having "clearer" water.
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Old 20 August 2014, 18:23   #12
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Fitting Doel Fins will lift the stern even more, not what you want if the boat is bow heavy anyway.
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Old 21 August 2014, 14:55   #13
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Originally Posted by Landlockedpirate View Post
Fitting Doel Fins will lift the stern even more, not what you want if the boat is bow heavy anyway.
Good point, I was thinking of them more to help the cavitation but agree they would lift the stern and definitely not what I want. Thanks.
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Old 21 August 2014, 14:56   #14
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How about a 5 inch manual jack plate style CMC-65 ? You get balance more to stern, you don't need to mod the transom and the "relative" height of the engine will be lower, propeller having "clearer" water.
That's the sort of thing I was thinking...
Are these available in UK, only seem to be able to find them in US? Any idea on price?
Thanks for your help
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Old 21 August 2014, 15:48   #15
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That's the sort of thing I was thinking...
Are these available in UK, only seem to be able to find them in US? Any idea on price?
Thanks for your help
Try Boatmad, pretty sure you will find a used one at reasonable price. You can always sell it on ebay if it does not work. I think in Your case, there is a good chance it would help.

A new CMC-65 is over her about 350 eur, dont know the UK price but possible slightly cheaper.
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Old 22 August 2014, 03:31   #16
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Originally Posted by C-NUMB View Post
Try Boatmad, pretty sure you will find a used one at reasonable price. You can always sell it on ebay if it does not work. I think in Your case, there is a good chance it would help.

A new CMC-65 is over her about 350 eur, dont know the UK price but possible slightly cheaper.
Good thinking, I will have a look on Boatmad. Cheers.
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Old 25 August 2014, 10:48   #17
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Fitting Doel Fins will lift the stern even more, not what you want if the boat is bow heavy anyway.
they also isolate the surface of the water from the area around the prop, assuming your AV plate is at or below waterline while planning.

jky
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Old 26 August 2014, 04:30   #18
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As said you can not expect to trim up to the limit B4 she cavitates to then turn hard with it not cavitating! You will need to trim down B4 the turn

+1.

If I am cruising in a straight line in flat water I'll trim up to the max. In the lumpy stuff I'll have it down a bit. I will probably have to replace my trim motor brushes before I change the fuel filter! (and I do hope that is a joke - but it illustrates my point)


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how Is your cavitation plate compared to the bottom of the hull?
Higher lower or the same?
Try the trim first - the water popping out form behind your transom will rise as it moves aft (or the boat moves forward - at risk of getting all Einstein) - either way, the cav plate level with the bottom of the hull is just a starting point.

I would play with the trim first, rememberiing everything is a compromise - perfect setup for flat water all out speed is going to get non optimal in lumpy corners... Which is why you have remote trim.

To put this in perspective - I used to have to set my old manual tilt SR4 up depending on what I was doing & the sea state. Moved the pin between one of 3 holes depending what I was doing in what weather.
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