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Old 30 July 2014, 22:40   #1
ncp
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Yamaha 703 Controls - Switch Push to Pull Throttle

QUESTION: Anyone done it?

He's my old thread:
SR5.4 - Mounting Yamaha 704 Binnical

I was able to buy an almost new 703 off eBay for a great price (now I need to sell the 704 I have). But, I had no idea that at some point in time, Yamaha switched from pull to throttle to push. Of course none of the eBay sellers mentioned which version they are selling. (and I surely didn't know to ask)

Here's the engine:
Might have found a Yam 90 for the SR5.4

From what I've read, the older engines are pull, the newer ones are push. This is the best info I've found so far:
Yamaha 703 Control- converting pull to push

$50 part seems reasonable to make it work how I need it.

QUESTION: Anyone done the do-it-yourself version they mention at the bottom of the article? Is it easier just to buy the $50 part?
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Old 01 August 2014, 10:27   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ncp View Post
QUESTION: Anyone done it?



He's my old thread:

SR5.4 - Mounting Yamaha 704 Binnical



I was able to buy an almost new 703 off eBay for a great price (now I need to sell the 704 I have). But, I had no idea that at some point in time, Yamaha switched from pull to throttle to push. Of course none of the eBay sellers mentioned which version they are selling. (and I surely didn't know to ask)



Here's the engine:

Might have found a Yam 90 for the SR5.4



From what I've read, the older engines are pull, the newer ones are push. This is the best info I've found so far:

Yamaha 703 Control- converting pull to push



$50 part seems reasonable to make it work how I need it.



QUESTION: Anyone done the do-it-yourself version they mention at the bottom of the article? Is it easier just to buy the $50 part?

Erm. I don't think you need any parts. You should be able to move the internal bit around to change it.
I think !
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Old 01 August 2014, 11:06   #3
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Simples

I found this years ago. Can't remember where I found it but it does work. I used a button head bolt and 1/2 nut. And thread lock Worked fine
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Old 02 August 2014, 18:45   #4
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Thanks you guys.

Nugent, those look like the same pictures that are at the bottom of the 3rd link in my first post.

...I need some additional clarification.

Based on the info from that link, I assumed that I'm going to have to tweak the controls. He said:
" I bought a new Yamaha 4 stroke outboard to replace my older 2 stroke Yamaha and figured that since I stayed with the same brand, everything would all plug and play together nicely. Unfortunately, somewhere in Yamaha outboard evolution, they decided that their engine throttles should move in the opposite direction of how they used to; the carb linkage on my new outboard is pushed by the cable to open the throttle while on my older Yamaha, the cable pulled the throttle open. And that's how my 703 control worked."
Based on his comment I inferred: (a) older two-strokes need a "pull" set of controls and (b) new 4-strokes need a "push" set of controls.

So, the new 703 I got is "push". But, here's how the old set of 704 controls works (which I hadn't checked before):
throttle, idle forward: shift cable pulls in, throttle cable pushes out
throttle, accelerate forward: shift cable pulls in, throttle cable pushes out more
throttle, idle reverse: shift cable pushes out, throttle cable pushes out
throttle, accelerate reverse: cable pushes out, throttle cable pushes out more

It seems that I have "push" controls and they work the 1987 two-stroke Yamaha 90. So, did Yamaha flip flop? Old engines were "push", then they went to "pull", and now the newer four-strokes are back to "push"?????
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Old 03 August 2014, 00:47   #5
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Yes sir

Simply change that cam over and you are set to,go,,

I did it this way from that link and worked fine for me
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Old 03 August 2014, 07:00   #6
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You can but the part which is less hassle or if you are or know someone who can swap the part around and secure it, either solution is fine. The fly in the ointment is whether the control box will come apart. You will also have to invert the parts which are connected onto the rear of the fast idle lever.
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Old 03 August 2014, 07:07   #7
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If you PM me, I have the push to open part. It's the newest version which is part made from hard plastic, which removes the need for the 3 plastic washers, making the swap easy. If you have your part and the 3 washers, I will swap as all my engines are pull to open.
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Old 04 August 2014, 16:03   #8
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If you PM me, I have the push to open part. It's the newest version which is part made from hard plastic, which removes the need for the 3 plastic washers, making the swap easy. If you have your part and the 3 washers, I will swap as all my engines are pull to open.
Thanks for the offer.

What I was saying in my last post was that I think that I'll be okay! I don't have the boat at home to take off the cowling and check though.
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Old 04 August 2014, 16:31   #9
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Ok, if you get stuck, you know where everyone is!!
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Old 20 September 2017, 05:30   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RIB-Teccie View Post
You will also have to invert the parts which are connected onto the rear of the fast idle lever.
sorry for resurrecting an old thread.

I've recent converted my control box from a pull to a push.

however the fast idle lever doesn't seem to do anything. from what I've read if I lift the lever I can use the selector to up the revs while its warming up without it going into gear?

as I've converted my control box do I need to do anything to the fast idle internals?

I hope this all makes sense

thanks in advance
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