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Old 11 February 2010, 15:32   #1
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yamaha 150 will not start or tilt

hi guys
could someone please advise me on the following.
when i turn the key to try and start my engine there is no response what so ever. not even a tapping noise which would indicate weak battery . also my tilt/trim will not work from the throttle button. or on the side of the engine. kill cord in in place. all instruments and nav lights work ok
my battery is fully charged and all the fuses seem ok
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Old 11 February 2010, 15:42   #2
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It looks like an electrical problem. Did you tried with another battery?

What is the voltage of your battery after 24hrs?
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Old 11 February 2010, 15:56   #3
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the battery is fully charged up . i also tried my new battery off my 4x4
same response off both
last wk all was working ok this is a sudden problem
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Old 11 February 2010, 16:18   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradosh View Post
hi guys
could someone please advise me on the following.
when i turn the key to try and start my engine there is no response what so ever. not even a tapping noise which would indicate weak battery . also my tilt/trim will not work from the throttle button. or on the side of the engine. kill cord in in place. all instruments and nav lights work ok
my battery is fully charged and all the fuses seem ok
Try here for an engine solution
http://www.marineengine.com/discus/m...81/12481.shtml
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Old 11 February 2010, 16:43   #5
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Put a volt meter on the lead to the trim switch on the incoming side make sure you are getting power, also check to see if power line to the engine is tight and has not been corroded. You could also use the volt meter and start from battery and work your way back to the engine.
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Old 11 February 2010, 17:13   #6
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thanks sonar

i thought there was only me with a engine problem until i opened up the attatched.
i will carry on reading through the pages but up to now my problem as not been highlighted by others (typical)
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Old 11 February 2010, 17:27   #7
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Put a volt meter on the lead to the trim switch on the incoming side make sure you are getting power, also check to see if power line to the engine is tight and has not been corroded. You could also use the volt meter and start from battery and work your way back to the engine.
there is a slight clicking noise when i press the tilt switch.but no tilt movement on the motor then after a couple of presses all goes quiet.
when i turn the ignition key that is just dead.
i will have to learn how to use a vault meter at the weekend before i pay through the nose getting a spark in fault finding

thanks i will have ago
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Old 11 February 2010, 18:14   #8
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No worries. You dont really need to understand the volt meter necessarily you just need to see if you are getting power. if you are then you would need to see how much to see if you have an issue with getting the amount of juice required. How long has your boat been layed up? You might have a frozen starter in which case a tap around the starter housing should free it up. just follow the Black wire to the starter and see if you are getting juice their. sounds like the leads to your engine probably from the battery switch are corroded ore lose. make sure all connections are tight. if you have oxidation on them a quick fix to check could be to dump some Coka Cola on them it will eat up the oxidation and allow for additional power to travel. Give that a go.
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Old 12 February 2010, 03:54   #9
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something to do with the battery leads bolted to your engine, take them both off and tap them together for a split second, if they arc then you won't need the voltage tester, if they don't it's either your leads or battery switch, if they do arc check where they were bolted for corrosion, can't be much else to make trim and starter play up, try turning the flywheel by hand and try putting a screw driver across the 2 big terminals on one of your trim seleniods to see if it works, out of all that i would go for battery switch( if fitted) turn it on and off a few times while doing the trim, tell me how you got on
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Old 12 February 2010, 04:46   #10
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My vote is for checking the main cbale to the engine - I had a suzi that suffered much the same problem- basically down to corroded terminals o nthe main battery switch - conducted enough to let small amounts of power through to keep the VHF alive, but crank the engine and a load of electrical laws about voltage, current & resistances in series came into play and resulted in most of the voltage showing up across the corroded termainals - i.e the starter got about 2.5V.

It's the high current draw of the starter / trim motor that causaes that to happen. I bet if you have a voltage sensor on one of yout instruments the reading will plummet when you try the trim / starter. - If so, check your cables for corrosion.
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Old 12 February 2010, 07:28   #11
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have you got n ISOLATOR switch ??
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Old 12 February 2010, 12:11   #12
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Check the main ground, at the battery and at the motor.
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Old 12 February 2010, 15:57   #13
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have you got n ISOLATOR switch ??
yes isolator switch factory fitted all new 2007

i will be attacking the problem on sunday taking into account all the advice i have had off
site members
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Old 13 February 2010, 02:55   #14
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yes isolator switch factory fitted all new 2007

i will be attacking the problem on sunday taking into account all the advice i have had off
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i would still start at the switch
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Old 13 February 2010, 04:42   #15
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I have the same engine so will be interested to hear the result...

As already said, I would remove and clean the battery connectors as it could be an earth problem. Could also be a starter motor issue -it may be momentarily 'frozen'.
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Old 13 February 2010, 05:40   #16
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Could also be a starter motor issue -it may be momentarily 'frozen'.
If that was the case, the trim would work.

As you said,it'll be a poor connection or joint. I'd be looking at all the heavy duty cable connections (including the crimpings, and specifically any soldered joints if someone has soldered any of the joins) between the engine and battery,plus the battery isolator.
Given that all the other stuff on the boat works,I'd look at connections over the isolator.
If the nav lights are working at full brightness, there'll be more than enough power getting through the isolator switch to make a trim or starter solenoid click, even if there's not enough power to run the starter/trim motors.

This is unless of course the isolator is solely for the engine.
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Old 13 February 2010, 08:02   #17
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If that was the case, the trim would work.
Good point! Not thinking.....
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Old 14 February 2010, 16:48   #18
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i would like to say thanks for all comments and advise

method

i cleaned the battery leads/ isolator switch and leads/ main battery leads that bolted to the engine all ok.

when i tried to crank the engine all dead / tilt/ trim still dead just a little trickle noise and the clocks/ instruments readings went faded.
i unbolted the main battery leads off the engine and touched them together. no arcing or sparks happened .
i then took the battery to halfords even though it was trickle charged up.the cranking reading was 64% not great but enough to crank the engine up.

i then called a friend who had and understud volt meters. he tested all through battery to battery switch ok /switch to main engine ok which read 12.4v enough to crank the engine,
but when i turned the ignition key the reading on the engine was nearly nil volts. something was shorting/retracting the current.

i own a 650 ribeye which as a factory fitted 12v supply socket on the back bench seat upstand. the terminals on this were corroded and after a good clean and vasaline up
the engine turned over 1st time and tilt/trim worked fine.

sorry for waffling but i can now get on with my life ha ha



its all easy when the problem is found??

thank you to all member for there advise/instructions /helpful comments
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Old 14 February 2010, 17:15   #19
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Sounds like you were lucky not to have a fire on your hands!
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Old 14 February 2010, 17:29   #20
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thats right

there was some good arcing on the terminals
i only bought the rib 3wks ago now all electrics are checked and fit for purpose
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