Yamaha 150 flushing

neilda · 17 June 2009, 18:16

I spent some while today trying to flush my Yamaha 150A - harder than it initially seems!

Having hooked up the hose pipe directly to the engine (as per the manual) and turned on the water.... nothing! The quite reasonable water pressure from the hose was not enough to force through the system.

I then tried muffs. Same deal. Nothing. I turned the engine off pretty pronto assuming something was wrong.

However, in the water the tell-tale comes through just fine.

Does this engine require very high water pressure to be able to flush it out?

C2 RIBS · 17 June 2009, 19:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by neilda

I spent some while today trying to flush my Yamaha 150A - harder than it initially seems!

Having hooked up the hose pipe directly to the engine (as per the manual) and turned on the water.... nothing! The quite reasonable water pressure from the hose was not enough to force through the system.

I then tried muffs. Same deal. Nothing. I turned the engine off pretty pronto assuming something was wrong.

However, in the water the tell-tale comes through just fine.

Does this engine require very high water pressure to be able to flush it out?

Neil to ask what may seem the obvious, when you connect your hose with a connector to the engine are you putting the hose onto the flexible hose or as I did once onto the hose holder on the engine (hope that makes sense)

using this connector-- http://www.housemakers.co.uk/epages/...ParentID=14116 with the screw part into the hose on the engine the flush should work. It may not push fresh water all through to top of engine by the tell-tale unless high pressure. I would always use this method, never let me down on 150 or 250 Yam.

Water will work its way through the water system if you leave it on for 15 mins and dont turn engine on/over. Someone else will have a few more ideas but this should do it

I have added a pic of engine showing the flushing lead which is the rubber tube with connector just below and infront of the engine release on 250, but same place for 150, When you unscrew this you are left with the tube and hose connector for the above item to attach hose. This may make sense!!
The water may still not rise all the way to tell tale but will flush through

Chris · 17 June 2009, 20:10

When I flush my engine I use muffs as I dont like the idea of the waterpump running empty, it normally takes about 15-20 seconds for the water to come through the tell tale.

neilda · 17 June 2009, 20:58

Ian,

Where's the red face smiley thing?

Yes, your post made total sense - I'm doing it wrong. Yes, I attached to the body of the engine. Ooops!

Many thanks.

Chris, the Yamaha system (when, ahem, used, erm, cough, correctly) flushes the system without the need to have the engine on.

Thanks Ian, I feel like a prat - but glad I asked and glad you knew!

BrAinZ · 20 July 2009, 21:52

So are you using the muffs to flush the engine now Neil?

Do you have to do that yourself or the nice people in the storage place?

neilda · 21 July 2009, 07:58

There's no need to use the muffs on the Yamaha - once someone has helpfully pointed out which bit to attach the hose to, the rest is easy! The boat yard will do it if I ask...

C2 RIBS · 21 July 2009, 14:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by neilda

There's no need to use the muffs on the Yamaha - once someone has helpfully pointed out which bit to attach the hose to, the rest is easy! The boat yard will do it if I ask...

"IF YOU ASK?" This is a standard at Southampton dry stack

neilda · 21 July 2009, 16:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by C2 RIBS

"IF YOU ASK?" This is a standard at Southampton dry stack

Is it?

KB don't offer it as a regular service, it needs to be requested.....

BrAinZ · 27 July 2009, 21:39

You say that you don't need to use the muffs... but I thought that if you ONLY flush using the attachment half way up the engine, then it doesn't flush the whole engine/gearbox completely.

I was told it's always best to fully flush things through by using the muffs.

neilda · 28 July 2009, 08:10

I can't recall what the handbooks says, from memory flushing is only shown with the hose attachment at the top of the engine.

jyasaki · 28 July 2009, 15:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrAinZ

You say that you don't need to use the muffs... but I thought that if you ONLY flush using the attachment half way up the engine, then it doesn't flush the whole engine/gearbox completely.

I was told it's always best to fully flush things through by using the muffs.

If you've ever connected the hose to the connector and turned it on, you've seen water coming out all over the place on the LU.

I feel perfectly comfortable using the hose attachment. Apparently the designers do, as well, as they keep putting them on the motors.

Not sure how the "don't use the connector" thing got started, but I will say it's a pretty pervasive opinion.

jky

Roy Smith · 28 July 2009, 20:54

We use the hose connecter as the muffs just cant get the water to the telltale
no other way

BrAinZ · 29 July 2009, 06:48

Interesting comments. So far we have used the muffs and the engine seems perfectly happy running with temps fine and water coming from the TT.

I would have from a pure logic point of view, it must do a better job with the water running round a moving engine than stationary?

neilda · 29 July 2009, 08:02

Given that the hose connector has been put there by the designers, I would be more tempted to use the recommended flushing system/routine than any other.

DJL · 29 July 2009, 09:05

Both flushing methods are in the manual.

I suspect that flushing with muffs is more thorough. Looking at the Cooling diagram in the service manual its going to be hard for the hose attachment to flush everything, especially if you wait too long after switching off the engine and the thermostat closes.