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Old 02 May 2005, 05:52   #11
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MikeCC

Regarding the age of you engine.

On the plate with the serial number, there are more letters. One of these reference the legth off the leg, the other the age of the engine.

You will have the find this letter and ask around, maybe someone here can guide you to the right age off you engine, when we have the letter.

Hope I make sense

Rene
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Old 02 November 2008, 15:54   #12
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C115 cooling problems and pressure relief valve

I have also experienced cooling problems with my C115. I changed the water pump amd the thermostats. The problem got worse! I looked at the lower unit while running over 3500 rpm (not for long!) and there was a huge amount of water coming out of the top of the lower unit at the front. I had never seen it do that before. I thought I screwed something up installing the new parts. So I dropped the lower unit again and didn't find anything wrong. I removed the thermostats and ran it on the water hose and it ran fine but that is not the same as running over 4000 rpm while out fishing.

I suspect that maybe it is the pressure control valve that is hung partially open? I really would rather have the thermostats in as designed but I am in S. TX so running in real cold water (most of the time) is not a problem. I have not taken the boat out to test it without the thermostats in. I found another web site that shows the prv to be at the lower part of the center between the cylinder banks with a larger hose clamped to the housing going I presume down to the lower unit. I think the prv opens up to avoid overpressuring the cooling system when the thermostats are not open yet (engine cold on start-up). The thermostats are rated at 50 degrees C which is 122 degrees F. If I run without the thermostats in the engine would likely be running too cold all the time...what will this do to the engine if anything?

I am going to get the parts to replace the prv and try that. Of course I could just leave the thermostats out and I will if that is the only way it will run without the overheat sensor(s) kicking in and cutting out the ignition. There were salt deposits mainly in the port side thermostat housing and galleys but the stbd side was real clean.

How could I apply a solution to cut salt deposits in the cooling system? Any insights into this would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 02 November 2008, 17:39   #13
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Thermostat is supposed to allow the engine to get warm before water being cooling.

One effect of thermostats stuck open is "making oil". usually occurs with boats that run at low rpm for extended periods (i.e. trolling), but has been known to happen in other cases.

Making oil is when unburned gases pass the rings and end up in the crankcase, where it mixes with the lubricating oil. Eventually, enough builds up to where it dilutes the oil, increasing wear. Usually signalled by a rise in oil level and a milky or foamy appearance to teh crankcase oil.

jky

p.s. You do realize you're posting to a 3 year old thread, right?
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Old 02 November 2008, 17:51   #14
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Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post
Thermostat is supposed to allow the engine to get warm before water being cooling.

One effect of thermostats stuck open is "making oil". usually occurs with boats that run at low rpm for extended periods (i.e. trolling), but has been known to happen in other cases.

Making oil is when unburned gases pass the rings and end up in the crankcase, where it mixes with the lubricating oil. Eventually, enough builds up to where it dilutes the oil, increasing wear. Usually signalled by a rise in oil level and a milky or foamy appearance to teh crankcase oil.

jky

p.s. You do realize you're posting to a 3 year old thread, right?
And that 2 strokes dont' 'make oil' either?
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Old 03 November 2008, 12:08   #15
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Hmmm. Could have sworn I saw "F115" in there somewhere...

I know I'm old enough to not see things that are there; maybe I'm old enough to be seeing things that aren't, too...


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