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Old 18 June 2010, 16:43   #11
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a pic of the bottom

more pics in previous page.
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Old 18 June 2010, 23:28   #12
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Pics are fine and it looks quite healthy- what I thought I might be able to see on the original ones is nothing.

Re cleaning the corrosion out, use anything that'll do it without marking the metal. A sharpened plastic toothbrush handle works well-and will do the carbon on top of the pistons too.

It looks very much like your throttle stop has been removed. Did you buy the engine new? It may already have been turned into a 15hp.
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Old 19 June 2010, 04:04   #13
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yes i bought the engine new. attached is a pic of the reed valve when replaced.
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Old 19 June 2010, 05:13   #14
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yes i bought the engine new. attached is a pic of the reed valve when replaced.
Did you use a new o-ring when you fitted it? It looks like you did.


The throttle stop is puzzling as there's no metal throttle stop in your pic of the engine.
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Old 19 June 2010, 06:28   #15
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Can you post a picture of what the other side of the head looked like from the piston side. There's a lot of corrosion, just interested to see if this contributed to the failure and eventual crack. Definantely clean up the engine tray. Spray engine degreaser on it, leave then wash off. Also clean all the old gasket material off the head, remove any surface corrosion and salt before refitting and use new sparks. There's a sequence to tightening the cylinder head bolts - another member may be able to help that has access to a manual and specific torque setting.
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Old 19 June 2010, 08:30   #16
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Did you use a new o-ring when you fitted it? It looks like you did.


The throttle stop is puzzling as there's no metal throttle stop in your pic of the engine.
o ring if im understanding correctly is the thing that tightenes the pipe ? no o used the same one. but it isnt loose thats why i kept the same one.
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Old 19 June 2010, 08:54   #17
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Can you post a picture of what the other side of the head looked like from the piston side. There's a lot of corrosion, just interested to see if this contributed to the failure and eventual crack. Definantely clean up the engine tray. Spray engine degreaser on it, leave then wash off. Also clean all the old gasket material off the head, remove any surface corrosion and salt before refitting and use new sparks. There's a sequence to tightening the cylinder head bolts - another member may be able to help that has access to a manual and specific torque setting.
thanks for the info, posted some pics. had a closer look to the cracked head. seems like there was some corrosion and the water path got blocked. probably that was the problem that caused the head to crack.

if someone has a soft copy of the manual would be greatly appreciated (9.9FMH)
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Old 19 June 2010, 13:25   #18
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Head bolts should be 12 ft/lbs or 17nm and the tightening sequence is cast into the head next to the bolts.


I think you're fine with the reed block as is-looks like the o-ring/seal on it is captive.


The old head looks a mess!
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Old 20 June 2010, 03:59   #19
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Head bolts should be 12 ft/lbs or 17nm and the tightening sequence is cast into the head next to the bolts.
Well spotted!
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Old 20 June 2010, 04:08   #20
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The old head looks a mess!
so i guess the only problem was that the head.
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