Winterization or run it on the muffs once a month?

[Max...]

What's best? - bearing in mind this is my first winter with a boat and there is a very slight possibility of using it in Nov/Jan/Feb/March but not sure...

As I understand it the main engine will benefit from a good covering of corrosion guard and obviously make sure all linkages etc are well-greased.

Fuel stabalization is not an issue as I can use up the external tanks' fuel in the car but is is best to just empty the fuel bowl or run stabalizer through it?

Manual says to remove plugs and inject some oil and turn engine over.

But why is it recommended to change engine and gearcase oil before the winter?

Or is it best to forget most of the above and just run it for 15 mins on the muffs every four weeks or so to keep everything turning over nicely and lubricated.

[badbaws]

Don't lay it up get a dry suit and enjoy the winter boating fun less yachties in the way!!

Winterise it if not going to use it that way don't have to worry about then.
CHange gearbox oil as if used a lot during season then makes sense to give it fresh oil now.

[jyasaki]

Motor oil, as it gets used, absorbs corrosive compounds as combustion by-products. Probably why they say to change the engine oil (assuming it's a 4-stroke.) Either that, or they figure you won't remember to change it later (I know I wouldn't...) In addition, any suspended solids will settle out over time; better to get all that crap out while it's suspended in the oil, I suppose.

Dunno about the gearcase oil, unless it's the possibility of water contamination (see below.) Suspended solids thing applies here, as well.

The squirting oil into the cylinder thing is to get a film of oil on the liners (which are likely steel), to prevent rusting while it sits. Engine fogging does essentially the same thing, but also hits the entire intake tract.

If you stabilize your fuel and run enough through the engine to displace the untreated fuel, you shouldn't need to worry about either stale fuel, or varnishing problems.

Depending on your location, having any residual water freeze may be your biggest worry. Water expands going from liquid to solid, and when contained in something like a water jacket or LU exhaust hub can split the metal. Though I don't recall seeing anyone recommend running anti-freeze into the engine, it seems it would be a good idea if your location is prone to hard freezes (I'm not in such an area, so I don't worry about it.)

Running it once or twice a month should take care of pretty much everything except the freezing part.

Hope this helps;

jky

[Jizm]

Use it!

[9D280]

Originally Posted by jyasaki

Running it once or twice a month should take care of pretty much everything except the freezing part.

Which would still be a problem if you used it every day!

[Max...]

Originally Posted by Jizm

Use it!

I guessed this would be the general consensus on a 'hardcore' forum like this one. It's in a garage and reasonably sheltered so freezing should not be an issue and always left in the down (drained) position.

I've always thought it far better to run an engine (even if only for 15 minutes every few weeks) and keep all the internal metal surfaces/fuel/oil pipes and seals regularly coated with their respective fluids than shut it up for four months 'dry'.

[9D280]

In all seriousness, some of the best views of the Clyde I've had were in the depths of January. A decent set of warm stuff under your waterproofs, a good hat & gloves and job done!

Back to you your needs tho' - can't tell what flavour it is from your profile, but if it's a 2- stroke, just runnng it will coat everything in oil. Just remember to drain the carb (I do it by pulling the fuel line & waiting) otherwise once the petrol evaporates you'll end up with a puddle of something resembling crude oil in the bototm of the bowl which will block jets.

[Max...]

It's a four stroke (Mercury EFI 60). Have been told that you get lots of really nice 'glassy' winter days down here (E. Sussex) over the winter when the southwesterlies give way a bit - could be good for skiing I guess if brave or foolhardy enough...

[willk]

I use mine all year, so generally haven't winterised.

DO Run the engine on muffs every four weeks or less.
DO Drop the leg to the lowest position to drain all the water out.
DO Charge your battery afterwards and possibly remove.
DO Check the engine after frosty periods for stiff linkages etc.

The willkcraft was not winterised during the worst winter in 30 yrs and both engines started first time (above list adhered to)

I have to add (echoing 9D280) that winter ribbing is good for the soul. You may not go too far or too often, but that "lift" in the short days is a life saver

[Mollers]

Removed for stating the obvious.