Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 11 October 2008, 03:11   #1
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Boat name: Chubby Rain 2
Make: Valiant
Length: 4m +
Engine: Evinrude 70 (RNLI)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 107
Winterising a Evinrude 70

All

My boat is left outside (with a cover on).

I am told I shoudl winterise the engine

The question I have to ask is, should I ?

Is there really any point

And if so how easy it it ?
__________________

__________________
Jon H
Landlocked in Northampton
Jon H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11 October 2008, 05:30   #2
RIBnet admin team
 
Poly's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: 2 stroke YAM 20 HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 10,114
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon H View Post
The question I have to ask is, should I ?
yes unless you use it regularly throughout the winter...

Quote:
Is there really any point
aim is to stop condenstation causing corrosion, and freezing causing anything to burst. i.e. protect metal surfaces and makes sure that there is no trapped water going to destroy your engine.

Quote:
And if so how easy it it ?
very easy, if you search here and or google you will find some guidance. It may be fair to say that some people are more dilligent than others depending on things like - how long it will be sitting unused, how cold it gets in your part of the world, where it is being stored etc. Depending how dilligent you are being its probably 20-60 minutes work - and makes it much more likely that next season starts well!
__________________
Poly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11 October 2008, 05:51   #3
Member
 
Country: Other
Town: some warm anchorage
Boat name: depends how I feel..
Make: Honwave Air 3.2
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 18 2 Stroke
MMSI: VHF 16 who wants DSC
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 70
Hello Jon
My answer is absolutely YES.
The aim is simply to protect the engine, it is a valued piece of kit, and needs to be reliable.

Here´s what I do when I leave my outboard for more than a few months. Most guidance I will offer follows standard accepted practice, some is my own initiative.

Break it down into the various parts -

Powerhead

Run the engine to its normal operating temp, then squirt fogging oil into the carb intake yoiuwill probably have to remove the intake cover. continue this until the enginie chokes up and dies.
Then, when cool enough to touch, Drain the carbs completely. remove the plugs, squirt fogging oil into the cylinders one at a time - about a 5 to 10 second spray in each whilst operating the starter in short bursts or pulling the unit over by hand. Replace the plugs.
Lubricate all parts of the powerhead and protect with a light oil spray. Spray electrical contact cleaner in all electrical connections

Leg

Lubricate all grease points and any area that moves, spray light oil over the leg area and wipe to leave a glossy but not soggy film.

Lower unit

remove prop, grease splines and replace prop and securing nuts, pins etc.
Drain oil, refill.

Ancilliaries

Drain fuel hose, drain tank, discard old fuel. try not to reuse.

If you have a battery, take it off the boat and store with occasional trickle charge.

Basically, protect the inside of the unit with fogging oil. everything that moves, grease or oil it, everything that doesnt, oil and wipe, or polish if you are so inclined .

Try not to have a cover that is too tight, allow air to circulate but keep water out.

next time you use it, start it on the old plugs, when the smoke has cleared, renew the plugs.

There are thousands of dubious and slightly knackered unreliable engines around, and it is reckoned that around 75 percent of failures are simply due to lack of mantainance, nothing else.

At the end of the day its up to you
__________________
ruddles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11 October 2008, 07:11   #4
RIBnet admin team
 
Nos4r2's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: WhiteNoise/Dominator
Make: Ballistic 7.8/SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Opti 225/Yam 85
MMSI: 235090687/235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,645
RIBase
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruddles View Post
Hello Jon
My answer is absolutely YES.
The aim is simply to protect the engine, it is a valued piece of kit, and needs to be reliable.

Here´s what I do when I leave my outboard for more than a few months. Most guidance I will offer follows standard accepted practice, some is my own initiative.

Break it down into the various parts -

Powerhead

Run the engine to its normal operating temp, then squirt fogging oil into the carb intake yoiuwill probably have to remove the intake cover. continue this until the enginie chokes up and dies.
Then, when cool enough to touch, Drain the carbs completely. remove the plugs, squirt fogging oil into the cylinders one at a time - about a 5 to 10 second spray in each whilst operating the starter in short bursts or pulling the unit over by hand. Replace the plugs.
Lubricate all parts of the powerhead and protect with a light oil spray. Spray electrical contact cleaner in all electrical connections

Leg

Lubricate all grease points and any area that moves, spray light oil over the leg area and wipe to leave a glossy but not soggy film.

Lower unit

remove prop, grease splines and replace prop and securing nuts, pins etc.
Drain oil, refill.

Ancilliaries

Drain fuel hose, drain tank, discard old fuel. try not to reuse.

If you have a battery, take it off the boat and store with occasional trickle charge.

Basically, protect the inside of the unit with fogging oil. everything that moves, grease or oil it, everything that doesnt, oil and wipe, or polish if you are so inclined .

Try not to have a cover that is too tight, allow air to circulate but keep water out.

next time you use it, start it on the old plugs, when the smoke has cleared, renew the plugs.

There are thousands of dubious and slightly knackered unreliable engines around, and it is reckoned that around 75 percent of failures are simply due to lack of mantainance, nothing else.

At the end of the day its up to you
I'd go along with all of that bar I prefer to put fuel preservative into the tank. Then I run the engine on muffs til the fuel preservative is through the system and leave the fuel system full-it prevents varnish and moisture in the float bowls building up.
__________________
Need spares,consoles,consumables,hire,training or even a new boat?

Please click HERE and HERE and support our Trade Members.

Join up as a Trade member or Supporter HERE
Nos4r2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11 October 2008, 09:32   #5
Member
 
Country: Other
Town: some warm anchorage
Boat name: depends how I feel..
Make: Honwave Air 3.2
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 18 2 Stroke
MMSI: VHF 16 who wants DSC
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 70
Agreed Nos, usually though, I dont have fuel left at the end of the season as I can use it in the small outboard (usually kept awake over the winter, its 30 degrees C here today yikes, so it gets a run, the rest I put in the petrol Genny.
But absolutely, if you can add stabiliser, then kewl. Never used it myself, never had to really, but in a definite season (read UK lol) then its probably a great idea, also due to the incredible cost of fuel !!!!!!

Good point.
__________________
ruddles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20 October 2008, 11:26   #6
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Boat name: Chubby Rain 2
Make: Valiant
Length: 4m +
Engine: Evinrude 70 (RNLI)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 107
What specificically is fogging oil and can i buy on web

Light oil is that like WD40?

And what about fuel preservative ?
__________________
Jon H
Landlocked in Northampton
Jon H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20 October 2008, 12:38   #7
Member
 
m chappelow's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: yorkshire
Boat name: little vicky
Make: avon ex RNLI
Length: 3m +
Engine: tohatsu
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,310
i had one yamaha engine and in 30 years of having it all i did was grease the moving parts ie swivel ,gear leaver , run the carbs dry ,loosen spark plugs ,squirt a teaspoon of oil down the cylinders ,stand it upright take off the prop , push some oily rag into the air intakes to stop insects spiders ect making it a home ,wiped it all over with wd 40 or rag soaked in diesel ,cover with old coat ,and turn it over by hand a few times every couple of months ,
__________________
m chappelow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20 October 2008, 13:17   #8
Member
 
Channel Ribs's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: Alderney
Length: no boat
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,047
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon H View Post
What specificically is fogging oil and can i buy on web

Light oil is that like WD40?

And what about fuel preservative ?
Fuel treatment and fogging spray we have by the gallon, let me know if you would like a jar of each.

As already covered winterising is well worth it, but like anchoring everyone does it differently!

The very least you can do is flush the engine, the most you can do is strip it and store it all in a box.

Given that the engine often between 3rd and half the value of a boat, it is well worth packing it away nicely for the winter. Mind you, even better to use it for 52 weeks!
__________________
Channel Ribs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06 November 2008, 09:03   #9
Member
 
Channel Ribs's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: Alderney
Length: no boat
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,047
Thanks for your details Jon, I have sent some info by PM.

__________________

__________________
Channel Ribs is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:22.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.