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Old 10 April 2012, 18:59   #11
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Originally Posted by totterfield View Post
We as a club are no experts when it comes to fixing these problems, as i understand they have to be plugged into a diagnostic programme, think we have two hypocondriac outboards.
No they aren't easy to fix yourself, but almost nothing is nowadays. At least over here the opti's aren't considered unreliable although maybe a bit finicky. I don't know if the guts are identical to what you have though.

How many hours do they have and how many is a typical yearly total?
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Old 11 April 2012, 03:04   #12
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How old are they? I've read that the ones produced in the first couple of years were electronic nightmares. Then they sorted them out. Sorry to hear of yours being awful, it ruins your fun.
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Old 11 April 2012, 04:11   #13
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What about instead of a single 175 replacing with a pair of 90s?

Yeah, there's all the "more to go wrong / twice the servicing" etc, arguments but (and I generalise quite profusely here) smaller engines tend to be more self sustaining (i.e don't care if the battery is there or not). Also there are still quite a few used 2-bang 90s out there, and if one dies at least you have 90 Gee Gess to push you home .....

:openscanofwormssmiley:



On a more serious note, am I right in thinking from previous people's posts that the Optis are quite battery reliant? What state is your main isolator? Those things must be the least waterproof electrical item on a boat! I had to pull start a Suz 25 when the contacts in my battery switch had corroded too much. If your Opti is sensitive to battery condition, try shorting the switch with a jumper & see what happens.

An engine flagged injector fault is likely caused by the resulting emissions twist in the exhaust as a result of too much / too little fuel being detected. management thinks "everything testing OK for presense, so injector must be faulty" If your engine is only seeing, say 10.5V, the injectors will likely not be opening and responding to the ECU i nthe manner they were designed to. The ECU just sees dodgy emissions and hey presto, diagnoses an injector issue. Having said that I think most automotive injectors are reasonably accurate down to about 8.5-ish V. Worth putting a meter across the engine feed connectors to see what it's actually seeing?
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Old 11 April 2012, 05:46   #14
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smaller engines tend to be more self sustaining (i.e don't care if the battery is there or not).
No need to go smaller, even the 300hp Evinrude E-tec can be rope started, with no need for a battery to be hooked up at any stage of running. You couldn't contemplate starting a fourstroke because the electronics would go crazy, and you definitely couldn't rope start an opti due to the extra revolution required.
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Old 11 April 2012, 07:09   #15
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Tom, reading your story, I wonder if your engines are the real problem..
Perhaps a kind of direct statement from the other side of the North Sea, but your story sounds a bit like you rather need to visit another dealer instead of changing your engines. Sold these engines for years and the only thing I remeber about these is that their about the most reliable types there have ever been in the market..

When most of your problems are battery related, buy yourself a good set of gel-batteries (Optima) and perhaps even build a good battery-charger in your console with a connector to the power net to keep them in good shape..

Anyway, good luck solving the problem!
Regards, Wouter
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Old 11 April 2012, 08:58   #16
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Having read your posts totterfield, I'd agree that it sounds more like a battery or boat wiring problem than an engine problem. I'd suggest carrying some jump leads and a spare battery and seeing if they then start and run fine.
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Old 11 April 2012, 09:04   #17
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No need to go smaller, even the 300hp Evinrude E-tec can be rope started, with no need for a battery to be hooked up at any stage of running.
Cool. I thought that Optis needed a healthy battery, or was that an early version? Thanls for the correction.

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You couldn't contemplate starting a fourstroke because the electronics would go crazy, and you definitely couldn't rope start an opti due to the extra revolution required.
I would maybe disagree with that. How many pull start 4 stroke EFI 30/40/50s are out there?
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Old 11 April 2012, 13:05   #18
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Thanks for replies, in defence for my local dealer i do have faith in them, they have fixed our boats so many times, and at last minute, it always leaves there working.

The batteries are fine, both have a good full charge, we charge tjem in the boat shed quite often to keep them full.

The engine are around 5 or 6 years old and around the 400 - 500 hours, i can`t remember exactly.

With them being club boats it`s out of my hands, the masses have spoken, they have lost faith in the engines so we are going to replace them. They are now both in the shop getting looked at, just waiting to find out what has gone wrong this time.

It is difficult which motor to replace with, i think the fact they are not used on a commercial scale does them no favours, they are quite often stood around for a few weeks, especially over the winter.

Has anyone used the Yamaha V Max 2 stroke, any good? I think we will end up going down the 2 stroke electronic route as that is the only viable option really, just hope the next ones are sweet.

As for the twin engine debate, can only have max of two 70 hp engines, doesn`t seem like enough to me.

So it`s another 2 stroke yamaha, Evenrude or Honda in my eyes
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Old 11 April 2012, 13:27   #19
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Has anyone used the Yamaha V Max 2 stroke, any good? I think we will end up going down the 2 stroke electronic route as that is the only viable option really, just hope the next ones are sweet.
At least over here those are only available in 20" shaft length. I would guess your boats take 25" no? They are typically rigged quite high with cupped SS props on shallow deadrise bass boats for 70ish mph speeds. I have never seen one in a high load application like pushing scuba tanks and divers. Doesn't mean it won't work of course.
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