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Old 11 March 2007, 15:08   #1
alt
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Volvo Penta KAD 32 - What to look out for...

Hi guys,
Not strictly RIB related. I am going to inspect a boat next week, which I intend to buy. There is a Volvo KAD 32 diesel (Super and Turbo - 170HP - 2001) installed.

Is there anything in particular I should be looking out for? Any known faults with the engine?

The supercharger has been replaced last year. There's load of receipt's for all the service history so I presume it was well taken care of.

Any advise/tips on things to watch out for much appreciated!
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Old 11 March 2007, 15:21   #2
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As far as I'm aware fairly bomb proof, good engine.the engine should be green all over,check the turbo, if it's not then it's overheated bad sign (even running at full throttle it will stay painted)

Better the guy used the engine every day. they very rarely wear out,only suffer from either lack of maintenance or lack of use, promoting corrosion. check it dosen't over heat, the heat exchanger can get clogged with salt this can cause restricted flow.

If you buy it remember to change air filter regularly,or you'll lose power,check the supercharger oil regularly (and buy the right stuff) the fresh side should be green (if he's used Volvo anti freeze) if it's brown....bad sign. .






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Originally Posted by alt View Post
Hi guys,
Not strictly RIB related. I am going to inspect a boat next week, which I intend to buy. There is a Volvo KAD 32 diesel (Super and Turbo - 170HP - 2001) installed.

Is there anything in particular I should be looking out for? Any known faults with the engine?

The supercharger has been replaced last year. There's load of receipt's for all the service history so I presume it was well taken care of.

Any advise/tips on things to watch out for much appreciated!
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Old 11 March 2007, 15:38   #3
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Attached is a picture of the engine. Turbo is a little rusty - Nothing to get concerned over? Or should the paint on the turbo still stick even with the heat? Is the supercharger oil seperate to the engine/turbo oil? The coolan expansion tank looks brown'ish .... Is this just the colour of the plastic? When you say the 'proper' supercharger oil? Brand? Quality etc?
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Old 11 March 2007, 17:42   #4
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Turbo looks fine, what I was talking about is paint burned off, there is a alan key nut on the top of the turbo, remember to bleed it when you change the fresh water side/anti freeze.

The super charger oil should come from Volvo (pricey) don't take risks with that one. the nut on top of the supercharger in plain view in the photee is the one with the little dipstick attached (don't lose the copper washer).

The plastic is white ask him when it was last changed (if he says less than a year, he's telling porkies,(it takes two years+ to go brown) remember it's only an indicator of maintenance, the engine is fairly bomb proof so don't let it put you off just make sure you look closer.






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Attached is a picture of the engine. Turbo is a little rusty - Nothing to get concerned over? Or should the paint on the turbo still stick even with the heat? Is the supercharger oil seperate to the engine/turbo oil? The coolan expansion tank looks brown'ish .... Is this just the colour of the plastic? When you say the 'proper' supercharger oil? Brand? Quality etc?
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Old 11 March 2007, 19:17   #5
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Thank's for the info dude. A service manual will be the first purchase once I get posession of the boat. It will be nice running one of these engines, considering my current (Well, sold it yesterday) engine is/was a Mercruiser 1.7 diesel
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Old 11 March 2007, 20:16   #6
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Check the top rubber gaiter between the transom shield and the drive. Two U/Js are in there and the gaiter needs to be in pristine condition. The lower gaiter is for the exhaust so not so important and it's also easily changed. The U/J gaiter should be changed every 2yrs and the drive needs to be removed to do this. If it's due for renewal, a bit of negotiation may be in order.

Similarly, there is a rubber gaiter which joins the exhaust header to the down pipe. It needs to be checked for condition before you use the boat. The raw water is picked up from the inside of the transom shield below the water line and the rubber hoses there should be checked as should the hose on the outside which transfers the water from the leg to the transom shield. The water pump impeller need to be good also.

I agree with IB, the header tank does look a bit stained. I'd be changing the water and replacing the antifreeze/corrosion inhibitor. Draining it down is easy and the instructions are in the user manual. Unlike some engines, a good quality auto antifreeze is all that is required. The user manual tells you how to do it.

The supercharger lubricant is known as Volvo Compressor Oil and it's about 20quid for 250ml Fortunately, you only need about half of it for a refill. Again, the user manual tells you how to do it.

When the engine is cold and started, the supercharger will run. It's designed to do this to help the warm up of the engine. If the engine lid is open and you are not aware of this, you could be alarmed by the excess noise. After a few minutes the supercharger clutch will disengage with a substantial click and the engine should run quietly.
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Old 12 March 2007, 05:39   #7
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had a KAD 32 in my 7m - was a great engine - as JW says, when it is cold the comp will run, then kick off - and i always thought sounds like a taxi....
The engines go realy well, and are really powerful - the change from when the comp comes in when you are running, is huge, and they really go..used to get my 7m going well with 12 on board...
Pending on what hours are on it - i would check the raw water pump housing, where the impeller is, and make sure there is no drips coming from where it joins the engine.
Alternator, is a weak spot on all the KADS, as the raw water strainer is right above it, so check that, also when he changed his oils - should be below 100 hours for the engine, and 200 for the leg.
Turbo will have a bit of rust on it because the engine cover looks like it opens, and drops water straight on top of the turbo.
Take a pen torch and look at the condtion of behind the belts, will have a bit of rust prob, but should be no leaks or anything.
I sold my KAD with 2000 hours of work on, and never had a problem with it apart from wear and tear -
From photo looks like a clean engine though - also ask what revs the owner used to cruise at?
Will think of something else and add it later.
cheers
Pete
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Old 12 March 2007, 18:04   #8
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RIBase
Exhaust Horn

Check the top of the aluminium section of the exhaust pipe. This is connected to the exhaust elbow by a rubber section. The aluminium can corrode from the inside out. Any staining on the outside of the pipe may be indications of leaks and possibly underlying corrosion.
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Old 12 March 2007, 18:51   #9
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Thank's a million for the advise guys. I should add:

Bellow's and water impeller changed last season.
Alternator was giving trouble last week - He said the engineer has this sorted.
I went for a test drive a few weeks back. Supercharger ran and I could hear it clicking in and out - I thought something was wrong but he told me exactly what you guys did

I've taken note of everything said here. I always change the engine oil's and filters and coolant when I buy any engine. Do you recommend I change the supercharger oil? Is there a filter for this oil?
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Old 12 March 2007, 19:22   #10
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..Do you recommend I change the supercharger oil? Is there a filter for this oil?
Just a filler/dipstick and drain plug. Yes, change it and you'll know it's fine from now on. I'd also replace the drive oil too and then you'll have everything hunky dory. I don't know what oil is recommended for your drive but it's likely to be Synthetic GL5 75w90. Volvo charge abot 80qwid for 5 litre I have been using Castrol Dynadrive Plus 75w90. You have to lashout about 140 but you get 25litres. I've recently changed to Fuchs Titan Cytrac 75w90, the price is similar.
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