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Old 14 February 2010, 15:35   #11
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Had something like this many years ago on a Johnson, it was the battery isolator switch which gave in ....causing the engine electrics to go on fire
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Old 14 February 2010, 18:52   #12
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Rogue Wave has 3 Opti 150s in bits in our boat shed, so I am sure he can help you out.
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Old 15 February 2010, 08:54   #13
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Progress so far

Guys, thanks for all your responses....always appreciated!

Nasher, thanks for the lead mate, will drop a Pete a PM if I get stuck...250kts ditto
Brad...you are a star, may give you a shout pending below...
Ian...thanks for you advice this morning. have just ordered a pair of Optima Blue Tops...arrive tomorrow.
Chris, will give RW a shout for any parts....cheers
GED...think the system is okay...but cheers for the heads up
Anyone else i've forgotten...thanks!

OB tech....have checked for continuity in the fused line all good (one thing ticked off)
Have only 11.9 volts from the alternator at tickover on muffs...NOT ENOUGH?? Guess the alternator is finished? Can ayone confirm? Also only have 11.7 /11.9 at the battery when running.

Incidentally, tried starting the engine on each battery individually...won't start /beeps.
Lazily starts on 'Both'.

Thankfully, the charter has been delayed (due to illness)...so have a short breathing space...needs to be ready by Thursday so rush still on!

Any further assitance re the above appreciated....will start lookinbg for an alternator and see if i can get one here tomorrow /Weds (unless anyone can advise otherwise). The batteries will also put my mind at rest (albeit an expensive way to do it).

Dan
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Old 15 February 2010, 09:27   #14
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Volts are to low. Going to be either the alternator, the wiring to the battery or the battery and my money is on the battery. How old is the battery? never managed much more than 3 years on a rib so change if in doubt. Possibly a duff contact on the battery or engine terminals which need cleaning up or possibly the alternator terminals.

With a new battery of at least 100 amps although I had a pair of 120 amp batteries for my Opti, if the problem goes away you are on the right track. Then test the batteries with the engine running and the volts should be higher than the battery with the engine off. If so problem over. If no change when engine running then its the alternator.

Pete
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Old 15 February 2010, 12:35   #15
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I totally 110 percent AGREE with Pete . It will be Your batteries , OPTI's don't like low Voltage at all . Good luck .
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Old 15 February 2010, 12:36   #16
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Had similar problems on my opti ( without the rough running) due to the boat being swamped just prior to me buying it, Water in the main cables to the engine caused them over time ( about 6 months) to corrode along with the switch.

Ended up chopping back about 2 ft to get to good wire - stuck new batteries on at the same time to be sure & new switch. No problem since then. Took RIBS marine about an hour to do it.

Try cutting back an inch at a time of the cables at the battery to see if they are corroded - if yes , either keep cutting until they are good/you run out of cable or just change them. Possibly cheaper & quicker than a new alternator to find its still not right ?

Is it possible low volts would mean the fuel system not running correctly to give the bad running ( I may have read that on a US engine site or here...)

Pete
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Old 15 February 2010, 13:37   #17
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I had similar problem as outlined by PeterM with my 150 Mariner hellish to start took an age. Found out it was the cables running under the deck in tube from bats to engine and back of course!! Renewed all the doings and has started and ran great ever since. You need good bats plus you have to be sure all the juice is getting to the solenoid as they do not like 'weak' power.
Good luck

J
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Old 16 February 2010, 10:13   #18
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Todays progress

Okay....

Fitted the new Optima blu tops today.....

Cranks (turns over and fires a LOT quicker /with more urgency). BUT....

When you turn the ignition on the smartcraft shows 12.4v...the voltmeter shows similar across the battery....they are good (obvious i know, but just to avoid doubt).

When running, the alternator shows the same 11.4 to 11.9v regardless of speed of engine (on voltmeter and smartcraft).

So, checked the battery cables (cut back and reattached...seem okay, no obvious corrossion). Am going to discount these for now.

Bipassed the battery switch and connected the engine directly to one of the Optimas...the same 11.4 to 11.9v reading at the alternator and 12v plus at the battery when running.

Based on this am I correct in assuming that it is MOST LIKELY a dodgy alternator? That is my conclusion, can anyone advise differently?

Thanks in anticipation...

D.
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Old 16 February 2010, 14:26   #19
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Sounds like a very pooly alternator.
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Old 16 February 2010, 17:00   #20
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Dan, buy a new one, then slow time send the old one off for reconditioning and keep it as a spare. They are not a particularly weak item on the Opti 150, but a spare ready to go would be good if you are opperating a charter boat.

Rogue wave often used my Opti as a spares pack , never actually knew how many injectors I would have on any given day when I turned up to use it

Pete
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