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Old 02 October 2009, 01:11   #1
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Undoing Steering Wheel

This might be a simple question, but for some reason, the steering wheel on my RIB has been put on not straight... which annoys me!

I clipped off the front, and removed the large nut and washer... but the wheel would still not bydge (pulling it outwards) -- it's almost like it's all moulded into the pin that goes into console...

If you take a look at the attached...

first pic shows the what looks like relatively simple connection between steering wheel and pin.

second doesn't really show much

third pic shows the box of tricks in the console I don't want to touch

I don't want to pull on the steering wheel and break everything that comes with it - so does anyone have any experience in knowing if indeed it should just come off the pin now I've removed the giant nut and washer?

Or is there likely to be something else holding it all together still and should I leave it all alone?

If so, is there some other sneaky way to straighten the steering wheel?!!

Cheers
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Old 02 October 2009, 02:58   #2
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The wheel can only go on one place, so you'll have to re thread the cable into the helm. There is a position to place the wheel prior to doing this but I can't remember where for your make of helm.
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Old 02 October 2009, 03:44   #3
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humz sounds complicated... thought I could just take it off and slot it on --- it has 3 slots and it just looks like moving it around one would fix... oh well
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Old 02 October 2009, 04:32   #4
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put the nut back on the spindle, just so the thread is level with the top of the nut, sit on the seat and wedge your knee,s under the wheel, grab the top of the wheel with one hand and give the nut a good bang, it should come off
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Old 02 October 2009, 06:38   #5
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The only way I took my steering wheel off was to make up an elaborate puller that slotted between the steering wheel and hub cover. This was linked up with a plate on top of the wheel with 3 pieces of studding joining the two up. A central stud then located on the central steering shaft which then jacked the lot off. I still had to hit it too

Can I recommend you drown the joint with release fluid like wd40 or plus gas first.
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Old 02 October 2009, 06:41   #6
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Originally Posted by biffer View Post
put the nut back on the spindle, just so the thread is level with the top of the nut, sit on the seat and wedge your knee,s under the wheel, grab the top of the wheel with one hand and give the nut a good bang, it should come off
Works for me every time!
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Old 02 October 2009, 15:04   #7
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Quote:
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put the nut back on the spindle, just so the thread is level with the top of the nut, sit on the seat and wedge your knee,s under the wheel, grab the top of the wheel with one hand and give the nut a good bang, it should come off
I'm confused by this one..

Nut is half screwed on, and then i give it a bang? Am I hitting it inwards, i.e. pushing the pin back into the console? I don't see any other way to hit it? But I don't think i want to start hammering the pin into the elabroate setup at the back, do i?!
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Old 02 October 2009, 15:15   #8
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I think reason for leaving the nut on is so when it does come off it doesn't hit you.
You want to be pulling it towards you, someone mentioned putting your knees behind the wheel and using them to force it off.
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Old 02 October 2009, 15:20   #9
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I think reason for leaving the nut on is so when it does come off it doesn't hit you.
You want to be pulling it towards you, someone mentioned putting your knees behind the wheel and using them to force it off.
Ah makes sense! I read 'give it a good bang' as in give the nut a good bang... which didnt make much sense...

Brute force it is...
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Old 02 October 2009, 15:26   #10
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I think reason for leaving the nut on is so when it does come off it doesn't hit you.
You want to be pulling it towards you, someone mentioned putting your knees behind the wheel and using them to force it off.
Leaving the nut on will also stop the thread from being damaged with the large hammer that you'll be using to hit it with.

I think it's more the shock you need to seperate the join between steering wheel and steering shaft.

When I was removing mine (which incidently is the same type as yours) I had employed all the other methods of removal, it was stuck fast and was as if someone had welded it together. I was starting to hit the join so hard that I too was worried about the steering mechanism under the console getting damaged, this is why I went to the effort of making a puller.

If you're scrapping the steering wheel and still having difficulies might I suggest some heat as well.
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Old 02 October 2009, 15:30   #11
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I smacked the nut on mine to try and free it off, got a bit carried away and it ended up stripping the threads on the shaft.
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Old 02 October 2009, 15:51   #12
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I smacked the nut on mine to try and free it off, got a bit carried away and it ended up stripping the threads on the shaft.
ouch
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Old 02 October 2009, 15:56   #13
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puller
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Old 02 October 2009, 16:03   #14
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puller
sounds like you're proud of your home made puller! u shud take a photo so I can copy it... unless it's copyrighted if u plan to make it commercially!
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Old 02 October 2009, 16:11   #15
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sounds like you're proud of your home made puller! u shud take a photo so I can copy it... unless it's copyrighted if u plan to make it commercially!
It's a bit rusty, shame you're not closer to home. You could've had the luxury of tripping over it everytime you went out in the garage

I'll see if I can take one tomorrow.
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Old 03 October 2009, 12:02   #16
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I left the nut on and wail turning the wheel I hit the back of the rim with a wooden mallet. Took about 4 full turns and it was off.
I put a tiny bit of grease on it when I re fitted it.
Just had to take it off again to fit to new console which is about 8 months after doing the above, and I just gave it a few taps and it was off.
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