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Old 03 September 2004, 05:25   #11
Country: UK - England
Town: I.O.W/Bristol
Boat name: HotShot
Make: shakey
Length: 5m +
Engine: 70hp Tohatsu
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,543
Thinking about it you probably could do it with the engine down. Fit the muffs, then lower the engine and start her up after turning the hose on. The engine will suck out the last of the salt water and would hopefully pull the muffs in tight so no sea water was sucked in (only fresh water from the hose). You couldn't be sure that sea water wasn't drawn in though.


slimtim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03 September 2004, 05:42   #12
Country: UK - England
Town: Brittany/Portsmouth
Boat name: Merlin
Make: Solent 6.5
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200
MMSI: soon !
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 5,451
who mentioned flushing????

Thought it was my age


Happy New Resolutions!!! : RIBbing for the craic!!!
The Jackeens is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03 September 2004, 06:44   #13
Country: UK - England
Town: Farnborough
Boat name: Eleven
Make: Arrow
Length: 8m +
Engine: 557cu, 700hp
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,255
I was under the impression that salt crystals are not the problem (this and the other flushing thread), since they'll wash out or dissolve the next time anyway (unless you are in saturated salt water), but flushing is for corrosion protection. Leaving saltwater in the aluminum engine encourages it to dissolve into a pile of aluminium oxide. The crystals referred to, I suspect, are alumium oxide (al203 I think), not salt, and that's why they don't dissolve, I failed chemistry a-level, but I do seem to remember aluminium oxide being particularly insoluble.

Engines these days do seem to be much better at resisting corrosion than years ago, but always flushing with fresh water is just good practice. Hopefully this engine has an external flushing connection as many of them seem to these days.
Either way, make sure all your anodes are, and remain, in good condition, and raise the engine clear of the water when not in use.
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Old 03 September 2004, 07:10   #14
Country: UK - England
Town: nr Lymington
Boat name: JU-JU
Make: Halmatic PAC22
Length: 6m +
Engine: 140.5 Mermaid
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,400

Been discussed before but looks like a good option for an outboard. Could probably use underwater.

Another idea I have seen is a canvas bag/bucket that goes under the leg and hooks onto the transom while the boat is in the water, you then fill this bag with fresh water, I think it was aimed at keeping weed of the propellers but would allow you to flush with the outboard vertical.

Scary Des is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03 September 2004, 14:19   #15
Country: UK - England
Town: Paignton, Devon
Make: Chinook and Viking
Length: 7m +
Engine: 150 Etec + 125 Merc
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 526
The problem is you can't really run the engine when it is fully tilted up. The way the cooling passages run water would find its way back through the exhaust and into the cylinders. If its on a mooring I wouldn't worry about flushing. Leave the engine down which will prevent crystal build up in the water pump. If you use it often enough then crystal build in the water passages won't cause a problem.

BTW. Your motor probably doesn't have any flush plug for the powerhaed.
Brixham BSAC
tue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03 September 2004, 16:08   #16
Country: UK - England
Town: sunny south coast
Boat name: Pride of Bilboa
Length: 10m +
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 521
Hopefully it will be used regularly in Portsmouth harbour, even if it's just to get away from work..

I flushed the engine on dry land this afternoon, just so I could see what I was doing.. Instead of hanging over the transom wondering what was where.. and where was what..

Thanks again for the replies and link..

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