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Old 03 February 2011, 17:28   #11
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Old 03 February 2011, 18:03   #12
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I'll take the point that 3mins for the bolts might be a bit ambitious (although I think there are only 4 not 6 bolts?) but ignoring a prop change I'd still think its possible to swap it over in an hour if everything is already in place (and as Bruce points out nothing is seized etc).

I'm not sure that twice a year is often enough to either keep your efficiency up or ensure nothing seizes.

The other drawback to me would seem to be that the engine failing could keep you off the water on both boats. I'd guess that electrical connections etc are more vulnerable to damage if made/broken regularly and a silly electrical problem could end up leaving you high and dry for a few days waiting for spare parts etc.
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Old 03 February 2011, 18:04   #13
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Sound good to me, what is your hourly labour rate?
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Well once you add in my tea break, paperwork, chin scratching, chatting to my coworkers etc - that will be 3 hours at 100/hr!
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Old 04 February 2011, 18:07   #14
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With a hour setting up all the right tools and equipment and laying them out ready for use you may manage it in 25mins but in the real world I reckon a couple of hours for a 90 as well.
This also assumes it is being done regurlarly enough that nothing is stiff or seized.
I would buy another old motor cheap for the "fun" hull rather than do this personally.
Agree with that. The engine bolts will have sikaflex (presumably) to ensure a waterproof seal. Personally I'd source another engine. The thought of dismantling an engine that's running sweet is asking for problems. Swapping electrics is never straight-forward, especially when re-rigging.
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Old 08 February 2011, 10:04   #15
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  • disconnect wiring harness/loom........2 min
  • disconnect battery cables...........5 min (could be made quicker)
  • disconnect gear cable..............1 min
  • disconnect throttle cable............1 min
Then there's the 15 mins of faffing to get them back through the grommet...... (and I can assure you, reconnecting is a lot slower than disconnecting, coz you need to make sure it's all aligned, set correctly etc...)

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  • remove steering "rod/piston thingy" from tilt tube..........1 min
Not if there's an A- frame or Aux in the way....... (hee hee, this may be the only good thing about wire rope steering!


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  • attach lifting harness to engine........5 min
  • loosen and remove engine bolts......3 min
  • lift engine..........1 min
Personally I'd reckon 5 min / Bolt unless they are cut to the absolute minimum length and / or you have an air power socket screwdriver to hand.....


Granted I have an unhelathy interest in decrepit engines and an increasing allergy to faff, but subject to JKY's comment not being too close to the mark, Personally I'd be looking for a secondhand engine. Running costs will be no differnet to two identical engines, and if your "fun" boat is cheap, insure 3rd party only and you'll recoup the cost of a shiny new engine you would want to insure fully comp in a couple of seasons.
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Old 09 February 2011, 03:40   #16
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Personally I'd reckon 5 min / Bolt unless they are cut to the absolute minimum length and / or you have an air power socket screwdriver to hand.....


Use one of those on stainless bolts and you'll find out what a bad idea it was!
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When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 09 February 2011, 03:56   #17
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...which brings us back to the reality check of 5 min / bolt!
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Old 11 February 2011, 17:47   #18
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Pikeys can get them off in 60 seconds.................
and over the fence in another minute!

Sounds like hassle to keep swopping them though,need to buy yourself a battery wheel wrench at least. And an engine crane.
Slowest/muckyest part would be re sealing the four mounting bolts every time.
Once you'd done it a few times I reckon about half an hour a time?
Once the cables were all set up the same.
How many wires in the loom? seven pin trailer plug and socket?
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