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Old 07 March 2015, 04:42   #21
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Yeah no water anywhere.

It is going in to get the outboard raised soon.

Cheers
I agree it looks like it could do with being raised. However just to share experience on a Honda 225 that I had on a s/h Vipermax a couple of years ago. This boat came with a Quicksilver Laser II prop fitted to the Honda and it leaned to port and every time it came out of the water it landed hard on the Port Chine.

I raised the engine and it did not make much difference however it was also then a little too high and tended to blow out in the turns. I then switched to a Mirage Prop which is a bigger diameter and different profile than the laser and the difference was huge and completely transformed the handling and the leaning issue was gone. I found that even at different height settings leaning ceased to be a problem.

So, my suggestion would be the prop if raising does not solve your problems.
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Old 07 March 2015, 06:00   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris View Post
I agree it looks like it could do with being raised. However just to share experience on a Honda 225 that I had on a s/h Vipermax a couple of years ago. This boat came with a Quicksilver Laser II prop fitted to the Honda and it leaned to port and every time it came out of the water it landed hard on the Port Chine.

I raised the engine and it did not make much difference however it was also then a little too high and tended to blow out in the turns. I then switched to a Mirage Prop which is a bigger diameter and different profile than the laser and the difference was huge and completely transformed the handling and the leaning issue was gone. I found that even at different height settings leaning ceased to be a problem.

So, my suggestion would be the prop if raising does not solve your problems.
X2...It certainly worked wonders on "Pigs Ear"
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Old 07 March 2015, 07:47   #23
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Big engine - light boat. Always a good chance of it leaning.

1) use a genuine suzuki prop to attain the correct max RPM. To big a pitch will cause a lean.

2) Check weight distribution. Usually a red herring but worth a check.

3) Raise the engine one inch/hole. Manufacturers recommend a set up of 1 inch above to one below bottom of hull. Most people set level.

4) I'm not a fan of raising two holes as the top cylinder may get starved of cooling water. Then bang it goes. Not always but I've seen it happen.

5) Offset the engine 1 inch to Starboard.

6) Does the boat seem at full pelt as if it is "walking" along the water? You will feel it through the wheel as a wobble in clam conditions. This means the hull is maxed out on power. This is when a larger pitch prop may help. Or a smaller engine.
Hi buddy,

Re your points.

I've never heard a ribcraft being described as light.

1. Stainless suz prop and 5850rpm full tilt.

2. No go unfortunately

3. As you will see by piccy, it is just below where it should be IMO, hence the thread.

4. Only needs to go up 1 hole.

5. Already done as per pics.

6. Hull is rated 250hp, so very safe there.

If I need to get diff prop then I'll get opinions. I suspect the huge prop the suz swings due to gearing isn't helping.

Cheers
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Old 07 March 2015, 08:32   #24
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5850 sounds fine. A smaller diameter prop might do the trick.

By a light boat, I'm differentiating from say heavy duty commercial with twin engines, a frame with self righting, safety kit and heavy fuel load and 3 crew.
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Old 07 March 2015, 10:17   #25
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the proper fix is going to be raise the motor, if that doesn't work then i'll see what else i can do.

ideally i want the motor higher anyway as i would like it to tilt fully out water when not in use and the design of the ribcraft doesn't allow it. there is a cover plate the hydraulic steering hits....bit of another feek up if you ask me but alas, it is there.

cheers
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Old 07 March 2015, 11:48   #26
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Originally Posted by dubrus View Post
the proper fix is going to be raise the motor, if that doesn't work then i'll see what else i can do.

ideally i want the motor higher anyway as i would like it to tilt fully out water when not in use and the design of the ribcraft doesn't allow it. there is a cover plate the hydraulic steering hits....bit of another feek up if you ask me but alas, it is there.

cheers
I don't know what set up YOU have but mine (like countless others I've seen)....is absolutely fine
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Old 07 March 2015, 12:04   #27
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I don't know what set up YOU have but mine (like countless others I've seen)....is absolutely fine

Yep me too absolutely no problem with clearance


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Old 07 March 2015, 12:41   #28
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the proper fix is going to be raise the motor, if that doesn't work then i'll see what else i can do.

ideally i want the motor higher anyway as i would like it to tilt fully out water when not in use and the design of the ribcraft doesn't allow it. there is a cover plate the hydraulic steering hits....bit of another feek up if you ask me but alas, it is there.

cheers
piccie
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Old 07 March 2015, 12:49   #29
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piccie
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Old 07 March 2015, 19:59   #30
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See the white box with the ribcraft plate, the hydraulic cylinder hits that if you tilt it too far ........I found this out the hard way when the engine broke the box completely off the deck and transom while I was adjusting the Suzuki trim limiter......whoops. The engine doesn't tilt far enough to get it out the water the way it currently sits hence me going a bit far with it.

I havent had a chance to look if the cylinder can swivel up out the way a little to allow more tilt, I never bothered as I knew the outboard was going up a hole and thus removing the issue. Just another fiddly thing with the setup of the boat....I'm getting there though.

Anyways, maybe not a build fault if the cylinder can swivel, bit hasty there perhaps. Either a build fault or a setup one so we'll see.

I dont know what they put the box on with but it broke off cleanly. It was kind of in between silicon and crap glue, I'm sure it probably wasn't knowing RC but whatever it was came off easy thankfully. Whilst it was off, i noticed there was pretty big gaps in places, talking getting fingers in corners here. Anyways, some grinding for fit with good old sikaflex and it is pukka now.

Coincidentally, has anyone ever seen that box off? I may have pics of this, will check tomorrow. there is a huge metal brace from deck to transom.....NICE!!. On the flip side, there must have been quarter inch gap at the inside (jockey seat side) end on the deck being taken up by large washers as the angle it was made didn't suit the deck-transom angle. Perhaps they mass make these elsewhere and just shim them to suit whatever it is going on?. I figured they know what they are doing so I left well alone anyways

The last owner hardly used it and was drystacked from new so I assume he couldn't be bothered getting ribcraft to sort out the niggles...his loss is my gain though

Yam 8 aux, 27kg, ideal.

Suzuki nmea all working on both plotters. Just to tidy up the cables left. Bit of a FAFF and had to send bits back to Suzuki for updates but worth the effort. It now reads 0.4gph at idle instead of 16-21gph at idle.

Hydraulic steering sorted, hoooge amount of air in system, easy fix.

Throttle fixed thanks to maximum quick how to with sooz.

Keel guard is waiting for warm weather to be fitted, 160 quid for 12ft from USA, bargain!

Currently making docking poles again, great for some launch sites round these parts. Not really requirement but handy for self recovery in some places round here.

Cheers
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