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Old 10 February 2015, 16:31   #11
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Pikey...no slots buddy so outboard shop it is i guess.

cheers
Bugger! That's a new one on me
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Old 10 February 2015, 16:50   #12
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If I had fitted this I would say its needs lifting 1 hole,,

But surely ribcraft no there set up with this engine better than any one,,
i never bought it new so i can't comment on how it exactly left RC factory, it isn't that old though (18 months or so) so i assume it is pretty much how it left.

i'm sure it needs raised personally, i'm just looking for others with more experience and their opinion before i throw 100 notes plus away to have it done.

cheers
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Old 10 February 2015, 17:07   #13
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Does it lean to port all the time, if you are trimmed right out etc?


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Old 10 February 2015, 18:07   #14
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Further out it is trimmed the better it is. I have never trimmed it out to the max if you like but it is certainly much better.

As I said, I cheated and turned the trim anode and that made quite a difference already.

I will probably raise it a hole and go from there.

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Old 11 February 2015, 05:32   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubrus View Post
the engine is offset probably in the region of 1-2", it came from ribcraft this way so i assume it is enough.



not the best pics but you get idea.



Pikey...no slots buddy so outboard shop it is i guess.



cheers

I'm not sure if it is a poor picture but it looks like you have two slots below the bolts on the top bracket so you can lift the engine up?


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Old 11 February 2015, 05:58   #16
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As I said, I cheated and turned the trim anode and that made quite a difference already.
Cheers
The trim anode is supposed to be used to offset the natural "turn" generated by the prop, so it's not cheating as such. A right hand (standard) prop will try to push the skeg to port, so set the anode slightly to port to bring the skeg back to centre. It can take a bit of playing, but mine is set 2 notches to port (the notches are at the rear of the anode) to centre my RH prop.

But I think lifting the engine may also help if this doesn't do anything. The anode is an easier "fix" if it works! Good luck.
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Old 06 March 2015, 07:56   #17
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Boat and therefore engine will rise at speed. By looking at your picture my guess is your cavitation plate's too high. Check your Owners manuals (boat and motor) to see how deep the cavitation plate is spec'd below bottom-centre of transom.
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Old 06 March 2015, 21:43   #18
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Have you checked that you haven't got a lot of trapped water in the hull on one side causing the boat to lean to port?
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Old 06 March 2015, 22:20   #19
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Yeah no water anywhere.

It is going in to get the outboard raised soon.

Cheers
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Old 07 March 2015, 01:31   #20
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Big engine - light boat. Always a good chance of it leaning.

1) use a genuine suzuki prop to attain the correct max RPM. To big a pitch will cause a lean.

2) Check weight distribution. Usually a red herring but worth a check.

3) Raise the engine one inch/hole. Manufacturers recommend a set up of 1 inch above to one below bottom of hull. Most people set level.

4) I'm not a fan of raising two holes as the top cylinder may get starved of cooling water. Then bang it goes. Not always but I've seen it happen.

5) Offset the engine 1 inch to Starboard.

6) Does the boat seem at full pelt as if it is "walking" along the water? You will feel it through the wheel as a wobble in clam conditions. This means the hull is maxed out on power. This is when a larger pitch prop may help. Or a smaller engine.
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