Tiller to remotes?

[Geoff_Jubb]

I am currently trying to find out if it is viable to run my engine of remotes (price and if possible).
The engine I have is a Mariner 25hp tiller and the only information I have on the engine is "25M" and "695 S 029815".
Could anyone tell me if it is possible to do this?
And if they know the parts required?
Don't worry about patronising me with your answer as I know nothing of this. Thanks in advance for your help,
Geoff

[Nos4r2]

It's not difficult, but to do with new parts is costly.

Personally I'd scour ebay for a Commander 2000 (merc/mariner) control box without electrics then go into an outboard shop/marine engineers and buy the cables for it new.

As for remote steering, how were you thinking of mounting the helm? Crossbar or console?

[9D280]

As Nos says, new is going to be silly money, however also be aware that most single lever remote boxes use te same internal gubbins - I've run Both a Yam form a Suz remote & a merc from a Yam remore - the mechanical cable throws are usually pretty standard.

The fun might be fixing ghe cables to the engine. I haven't had a chance to look your engine up, but there are essentially two "high level" ways of doing it:

1) external connection - Usually on older engines- there will be a random lever somewhere round the bottom of the case for the throttle, and your gear stick will have a slotted hole. You may have a boss to screw a cable anchor to vaguely in line with them. Really old stuff you just had to drill the case!

2) internal connection - Have a look at the front of your case. there may be a removable section. likely on the starboard side. (ther may be two smaller ones, one either side) what you'll then need is the big rubber bung(s), and the cable clamp/anchor bracket which will screw in, very likely to the same hole you unscrewed the "filler" from. Cable ends will be either a round ball on the end of a lever (move theottle & gears, see what moves) or a pin with a hole for a split pin.

There's plenty of aftermarket cable ends for connecting to the engfine, pretty much any "standard" cable should then fit. (I have teleflex cables connecting a Yam Remote control to a Merc engine)


As Nos says, you;re probably better spending the money on a new wirting loom. That will either plug into a random socket inside rh engine, or will replace one that leads to the front. As you only really need a deadman, you could wire a 222- core & get a simple switch (your remote box may have one alreadty) and wire it to short the ignition. (I say that assuming you have some electrical knowledge)

If i've just confused you more I'll try to re- write this wil th pics!

[Geoff_Jubb]

Hi guys, thanks for your help.
I have heard back from someone, who recons £120ish for the engine attachments. nI have seen a Trem remote control for £55. I think I am looking at £300 pounds all told.
I was hoping it wouldn't be this much.
I will keep my eyes open on ebay but it is hard not knowing the engine connections I need.
I assume on top of that I will need a charging circuit(?), and a part that will mean I can electrically start the engine.
I am hoping to mount the wheel on a 1 1/2"solvent weld pipe frame bolted to the floor. Is there a lot of stress exerted when turning the wheel?
I am sorry 9D280, but my knowledge of steering is non existant. Does anyone know of a guide anywhere?
Thanks for taking the time to reply,
Geoff

[Andy B]

Originally Posted by Geoff_Jubb

Hi guys, thanks for your help.
I have heard back from someone, who recons £120ish for the engine attachments. nI have seen a Trem remote control for £55. I think I am looking at £300 pounds all told.
I was hoping it wouldn't be this much.
I will keep my eyes open on ebay but it is hard not knowing the engine connections I need.
I assume on top of that I will need a charging circuit(?), and a part that will mean I can electrically start the engine.
I am hoping to mount the wheel on a 1 1/2"solvent weld pipe frame bolted to the floor. Is there a lot of stress exerted when turning the wheel?
I am sorry 9D280, but my knowledge of steering is non existant. Does anyone know of a guide anywhere?
Thanks for taking the time to reply,
Geoff

Thinking a bit outside of the box,
have you considered buying an engine that already has remotes,
and then selling your engine to recuperate most of your money back!
It will probably work out cheaper than buying all the parts separately and you'll have all the right bits.

[Geoff_Jubb]

Originally Posted by Andy B

Thinking a bit outside of the box,
have you considered buying an engine that already has remotes,
and then selling your engine to recuperate most of your money back!
It will probably work out cheaper than buying all the parts separately and you'll have all the right bits.

Not a bad idea, but I have a terrible track record buying engines. Plus I have had this one serviced and been told it is a good runner, so would prefer to keep it. Thanks for the idea though.

[Andy B]

Originally Posted by Geoff_Jubb

Not a bad idea, but I have a terrible track record buying engines. Plus I have had this one serviced and been told it is a good runner, so would prefer to keep it. Thanks for the idea though.

your welcome,
and yes i fully understand the value of a known and reliable motor

[Polwart]

Geoff - you don't need to add a starter/battery etc to run remotes. It will be quite happy on manual start. It will be a few hundred at least to add electrics.

[m chappelow]

it may be more trouble than its worth with a s.i.b,,,extra weight, more clutter, cables running about ,things getting snagged up all the time ,,makes the boat less manouverble for quick responses of the helm ,especially if you do a lot of fishing ,,suppose its ok if you are doing a lot of distance ,then you can sitback and steer with sunglasses and a smirk on your face,,,lol

[9D280]

Yeah, to add electric start will be silly money, but as has been said before, by fishing around, the hardware can be go reasonabyl cheaply, and a deadman can be made using bog standard lighting flex & an aftermarket switch / lanyard.

When I di that to a '72 Johnson form memory the "morse" cabkles were the most expensive part - Old 70s vintage Morse / teleflex single lever control* - £20 from boat jumble, cable end fitting kit - £15, Deadman switch - £12 then the "morse" cables which from memory were around the £40-50 mark.

It moved me all of about 2 foot further forward (initially worked it with the deadman clipped to the back of my lifejacket I was so close to the engine), but was sooo much more comfortable on a longer trip.