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Old 30 June 2010, 08:45   #1
kerlstone's Avatar
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Ayrshire
Boat name: Deepsea
Make: Bwm 18
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 100hp, +4hp
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 120
tiller steering conversion

Hi there, Im looking for advice on (if its possible) converting tiller steering to centre console etc, I have a yam 380s inflatable with a yamaha 15 hp 2 stroke, both 2001,
I would need steering controls, gear and throttle controls, could anyone advise me where to get the parts if available, how much its likely to cost, is it difficult to do etc, I will make the the console myself. thanks, Kerlstone.

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Old 30 June 2010, 09:20   #2
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Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,032
Once you've worked out how to mount a console (I assume you keep it inflated - as fitting / removing a console and remotes will be a PITA on a regular basis) you'll need:

The helm unit (steering wheel + the bit that moves the cable when you turn it).
Steering cable.
A throttle box (e.g. Yam 703)
Throttle and gear cables.

That's all standard stuff you'll find on the net or at a good chandlers/outboard supplier. The bad news is it could easily cost you 300+.

Some sort of wiring loom so your kill cord is at the remotes (and possibly wiring in the choke, and ignition key etc) - a proper wiring harness won't be cheap - but I guess you could DIY something for less.

Then you need the "kit" to convert the engine from tiller to remotes

Then input the year/model (I think what you are looking for is on the left as "remo con attachment"). I'd imagine thats a Yamaha only part and so make sure you are sitting down before phoning yamaha for the price!

You'll probably also need an L shaped bar that joins this to the the steering cable/piston - yamaha seem to call this a "steering guide".

Don't mean to be a pesimist - but cost of console + cost of remotes + cost of engine mod, may not be sensible. It may well work out cheaper to upgrade the boat?
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Old 30 June 2010, 09:54   #3
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,650
Having said that, the actual remotes lever (throttle / gears) you probably won't need a 703. (it has all the electrical gubbins for key start). They do a small one (I forget it's number) that does the mechanical stuff & has a deadman switch. From memory it's significanlty cheaper coz of the lack of electrics, and also mounts on the RHS of a console without looking like it's meant to be on the other side! Could also use an aftermarket Teleflex / Ultraflex type lever, and mount your own deadman switch on the console. Bowden cables are standard for most apps. Just get the appropriate end fittings kit(s)

Can also probably get away with Any old second hand control box - They all have the same internal mechanism anyway. (My Yam 703 has worked both a Suz and a merc), and when I was rebuilding the 703 I borrowed a tohatsu one to work the Yam with.........

As Pol says, could be frighteningly expensive if you buy all new off the shelf, but with a bit of digging......

Could also try phoning DA in Tayport - he has a stack of gubbed Yams, so might have the remotes kit on a siezed one.
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Old 03 July 2010, 13:28   #4
Country: UK - England
Town: North East
Boat name: Sarah Louise
Make: Honwave T38IE
Length: 3m +
Engine: 15 Yamaha, 8 Mariner
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 228
Hi Kerlstone,
I converted my engine with help off here. I was lucky as I got a lot of my stuff of ebay, so got cables free with the control box etc.
I posted what I found whilst doing it here... on the last post.
Incidentally, I have just today fixed a problem I had come across.
Since I changed it I found my engine difficult to start, but that it ran fine once started. It came to a head last weekend, when I had trouble on the water and ended up leaving it running all day whilst fishing.
Anyway, I had a look today and found it wasn't getting enough gas when starting as an adjustable stopper prevented the "choke" lever on my control box opening the gas enough. I changed it and it now seems to start fine. I guess this is something you need to change when you convert from tiller. I thought it may help someone else, as when you do this there doesn't seem to be any instructions with the parts.
Sorry about my terminology, I don't know my way around an engine yet.
Good luck,
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