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Old 02 March 2014, 09:30   #11
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Point taken Nos. I've put an order in for the gasket. Part number 3F3-01005-0, probably in the region of 40.

Simply can't replace the head just now. I'm over on the west coast in a few weeks so will go to an outboard graveyard I know where Tohatsu's are reborn! Will see what he has kicking about.
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Old 02 March 2014, 10:40   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterman View Post
I used a spark plug helicoil kit before. Worked perfectly, just make sure you use the correct heat resistant loctite.
Loctite 272?
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Old 02 March 2014, 11:06   #13
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Yes Think it was loctite red 271 I used... No issues yet. I Kept a spare helicoil insert just incase it ever unscrewed with the spark plug.
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Old 02 March 2014, 11:15   #14
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Quote:
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It's been compressed once. Don't do it-sea water in bores won't be good.
Blue hylomar on a head gasket is a really REALLY stupid thing to do. (sorry, had to fix too many motors where it'd been done)
Head gaskets are a one shot item - what Nos said
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Old 02 March 2014, 11:33   #15
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Heli-coils are CRAP!! They don't hold very well, and pull out too often. Not a permanent repair.

Time-sert's are the way to go for spark plug thread repairs, and are considered a permanent repair. ++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads

Probably cheaper than buying a Time-sert kit would be to find someone with one and pay them to do it. Then again with the word cracking I would either be welding the old head or getting a replacement. Got a better picture showing the crack?

FWIW We always do the thread repairs with the motor together...and in the vehicle. Grease keeps the debris from falling into the cylinder (Hopefully).
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Old 02 March 2014, 12:56   #16
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Probably cheaper than buying a Time-sert kit would be to find someone with one and pay them to do it. Then again with the word cracking I would either be welding the old head or getting a replacement. Got a better picture showing the crack?

FWIW We always do the thread repairs with the motor together...and in the vehicle. Grease keeps the debris from falling into the cylinder (Hopefully).
I did think about leaving the head on, but bit the bullet and stripped it down. Ultimately easier to work on, although I've seen videos on youtube repairing it in situ.

I've looked at the time-sert kits which are expensive, but more substantial than a helicoil. If I use a time-sert it will need to be ground back inside the cylinder head so it's flush. There's a head shop in Aberdeen which charge 50 an hour. This might be the way forward as I can take the head to them.

Surface cracks and pitting. Nothing to suggest the integrity of the head is compromised.
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Old 02 March 2014, 13:07   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter_C View Post
Heli-coils are CRAP!! They don't hold very well, and pull out too often. Not a permanent repair.

Time-sert's are the way to go for spark plug thread repairs, and are considered a permanent repair. ++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads

Probably cheaper than buying a Time-sert kit would be to find someone with one and pay them to do it. Then again with the word cracking I would either be welding the old head or getting a replacement. Got a better picture showing the crack?

FWIW We always do the thread repairs with the motor together...and in the vehicle. Grease keeps the debris from falling into the cylinder (Hopefully).
100% recommended

Worth time serts. I used to build and race high comp quad bikes and used these as a std in part of the build. The high comp engines I built in the early learning days always stripped the head of there plugs due to high compressions ,, never happens with a time sert added,, not cheap. But good items never are,,
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Old 02 March 2014, 13:38   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus View Post
If I use a time-sert it will need to be ground back inside the cylinder head so it's flush.
The kit comes with a tool that removes enough metal to allow the Time-Sert to sit properly. No "Machine Work" is needed, just utilize the kit and it's contents...with grease! >>>Related more to doing them with the head installed. Stop and clean often not letting the chips build up! Before installing the insert, clean the newly cut threads to remove the grease used to keep chips from falling, along with any errant chips. There should be plenty of youtube videos on using the kit.

The head is really hard to see in the photo, but those almost appear like casting marks. If they are cracks The head needs to be replaced, but more importantly I would worry about why the fuel mixture is so far off (Lean), in all the cylinders, causing it to run hot. If they are just casting marks, put it together and run it.
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Old 04 March 2014, 10:41   #19
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If you have already 2 shot out of 3 spark plug's threads, probably will be better to change all 3 Time Serts at once at a shop. Have used helicoils myself with no issues at all as long they are well bonded to head. Somebody stated that helicoils retains more heat on the surrounding area than Time Serts.

Head gaskets have their own sealing glue adhered to both sides, no good to use old ones as will be compressed and probably not seal combustion chamber 100%

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Old 05 March 2014, 16:28   #20
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The time sert kit that I've got has an assortment of different length inserts so that if you fit the correct one there is no machining to do.
I've fitted dozens over the years (mostly to cars) to do it in place wind the piston down from tdc so that the tap doesn't mark the piston, grease the tap, cut the thread,spin the engine over to blow any swarf out of the spark plug hole,clean the grease out of the new thread in the head with aerosol brake cleaner, allow to dry, screw a time sert onto a spark plug with your fingers, loctite the time sert thread ,(don't get it on the plug thread!!!!) screw the insert in to the head using the plug, nip the plug up to seat the insert, when the loctite has set, the plug can be removed if needed.
We used to coppaslip the plug thread on cars not sure about coppaslip on an outboard though !?
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