Teleflex wheel removal

kauboy · 31 July 2006, 17:48

I am having a lot of trouble removing a Teleflex steering wheel from my '69 Del Magic boat. The central hub and shaft seem to have rusted together. Along with that, there is a woodruff key in there as well. I believe that I could break the rust free if I could get the woodruff out, but that is my problem. I don't know how to remove it. There is a very small square slot where it is located, but I don't know what or how to use a tool to get it out.

I am new to boating and have just recently found this forum. There is a ton of great information here and I am hoping that the knowledgable members will be able to help me find a solution to my problem.

Thank you.

jyasaki · 31 July 2006, 18:04

Most keys I've seen (not sure about yours) have a semi-circular key sitting in a semi-circular groove. The key is shaped like a shallow "D", and the groove is as if it was cut by placing a cutting wheel on the shaft, rotation parallel to the shaft.

You most likely won't be able to remove the key until you get the wheel off.

Try using a bunch of penetrating solvent (Break Free, Kroil, PB Blaster, etc.) and a pulley remover. Gentle heat application might help, too (be careful if you've used an oil-based penetrating solvent, or have recently applied *any* penetrating material.) A couple of whacks with a hammer may also help to break the corrosion bond, but may mar things a bit.

Luck;

jky

Limey Linda · 31 July 2006, 18:31

Use penetrating oil. Kroil is the best. Do not be in a hurry, soak it for at least 24hours and then give a sharp but light tap with a heavy mallet. Warming with a hair dryer always helps.

kauboy · 31 July 2006, 18:44

These are great ideas. Keep 'em coming since I will probably end up having to try them all

bedajim · 31 July 2006, 18:50

Hi

I had to remove mine used some oil and left it over night, then a set of three legged pullers.

When it starts to move it will come off very easily as the shaft has a taper

The key can only be removed after the wheel has been removed as it is a woodruff and the curved section is in the shaft. After you have removed the wheel if the key is still tight you can normally remove them with a screw driver by tapping down from the top lightly with a soft hammer

It's a good idea to put the nut back on the shaft after the wheel is removed to protect the threads.

jwalker · 31 July 2006, 21:10

You need two people and a sizeable hammer. One person has to pull hard on the wheel while the other strikes the end of the shaft very firmly. If the puller can get to the other side of the wheel and push with feet, it is easier for the other to strike the shaft. If the helm unit is to be reused, put the nut onto the end of the shaft to protect the threads.

As an alternative: If you are able, drill and tap two holes into the boss, one each side of the shaft. Make a strap with two clearance holes on the same centres as the tapped holes and bolt this across the end of the shaft. As the bolts are tightened it will pull the hub forward. When it is suitably under pressure, strike it dead centre so as to shock the end of the shaft.

It's worth putting a couple of tapped holes into a new steering wheel boss to make removal easier in the future. Also, apply grease to the taper on assembly.

Andy · 31 July 2006, 21:33

Use a puller ... only way! Hitting is a hammer can cause damage to the helm

Paul F · 31 July 2006, 21:33

Agree with JWalker, 2 people job. but make sure as quoted put nut back on lightly 1. to protect threads. 2. To stop you wearing the wheel in face when it does pop.

Paul

jwalker · 31 July 2006, 21:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul F

.... 2. To stop you wearing the wheel in face when it does pop.

Didn't think of that, cool.

kauboy · 31 July 2006, 21:58

I have tried the hammer method but couldn't get it to budge. Andy, what puller would you recommend? The gear puller I bought is too flimsy and twists too much to hold a good straight grip.

Nos4r2 · 31 July 2006, 22:31

Try Rost-off ice on it (it freezes the joint and cracks corrosion) or freeze the centre with electrical freezing spray THEN chuck your PB-Blaster/kroil type penetrating oil on it for the same effect. A good alternative to penetrating oil is diesel-it's thinner than most penetrating oils and creeps better.

The other one to try which is really good is corrosion block spray. Put it on and leave it a week-it'll get in the joint. I got some on a switch that had seized solid by accident. I knocked it by accident a week later and it was working perfectly.

bedajim · 01 August 2006, 06:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by kauboy

I have tried the hammer method but couldn't get it to budge. Andy, what puller would you recommend? The gear puller I bought is too flimsy and twists too much to hold a good straight grip.

I used a three legged puller as in the pictures

James

kauboy · 01 August 2006, 14:01

Well I have good news and bad news...

The bad news is, I am a very impatient man.
The good news is, the wheel is off!!! (but so is the shaft

)

I took the advice offered and started working on it for a second night. I tried many of the suggestions that were given, but NONE worked. That thing just wouldn't move an inch. So, up steps my impatient inner child, and out comes the hacksaw. Yes, I know, "Why did you go and do that?" Well, thats just me. If I can't do it in a civil manner, brute force is soon to follow.

So now I have the wheel off, and am looking for a new helm unit as well. I was thinking of getting the Teleflex Safe-T QC but I don't know if the Safe-T II would be better. Any suggestions? Or would any of you know which one would be more suited to my needs? Remember I have an outboard 55HP Evinrude, if that makes any difference.

BogMonster · 01 August 2006, 15:30

or: "If it jams, force it, if it then breaks then it needed replacing anyway"

A sound principle, I use it all the time

mike · 01 August 2006, 16:44

be careful with pulley etc as the console may not take the load as a friend of mine found out this winter.

We removed steering from the same system as yours after chatting to paul f

and I strongly recommend his approach as ours was well stuck on after 10 years approx but came off third attempt.
Had heavy ie me bloke do pulling and someone who can be trusted to whack the threaded shaft. used a hard but of wood to stop burring and left nut on and hey presto!!!

Jon Tallis · 02 August 2006, 09:04

1) start with penetrating oil - lots of it, soaked overnight at least.
2) Try applying some gentle heat, assuming your wheel is chromed, not plastic coated / painted. Use a plumbers torch or a hot air gun. Protect the console / instruments with wet cloths.
3) Pull the wheel towards you as hard as you can whilst an assistant taps (hits) the spindle of the steering shaft with a hammer. Leave the nut on the very end to protect the treatds. Beware not to hit so hard as to damage the console or steering gear.
4) Make, hire or buy a steering wheel puller. In the UK most big hire shops / auto shops have these.

The key CANNOT be removed unit the wheel is off

good luck

kauboy · 02 August 2006, 13:58

I really appreciate the help guys, but as I posted a little earlier, I have removed the wheel. It took sawing off the helm to do it, but it was 30yrs old and needed to be replaced anyways. So I am wondering what to replace it with. What is the difference between the Teleflex Safe-T QC and the Safe-T II?