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Old 31 July 2006, 17:31   #11
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Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: WhiteNoise/Dominator
Make: Ballistic 7.8/SR5.4
Length: 7m +
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Try Rost-off ice on it (it freezes the joint and cracks corrosion) or freeze the centre with electrical freezing spray THEN chuck your PB-Blaster/kroil type penetrating oil on it for the same effect. A good alternative to penetrating oil is diesel-it's thinner than most penetrating oils and creeps better.

The other one to try which is really good is corrosion block spray. Put it on and leave it a week-it'll get in the joint. I got some on a switch that had seized solid by accident. I knocked it by accident a week later and it was working perfectly.
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Old 01 August 2006, 01:26   #12
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Country: UK - England
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Make: Osprey
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Originally Posted by kauboy
I have tried the hammer method but couldn't get it to budge. Andy, what puller would you recommend? The gear puller I bought is too flimsy and twists too much to hold a good straight grip.

I used a three legged puller as in the pictures

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Old 01 August 2006, 09:01   #13
Country: USA
Make: Del Magic
Length: 4m +
Engine: Evinrude 55HP
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 5
Well I have good news and bad news...

The bad news is, I am a very impatient man.
The good news is, the wheel is off!!! (but so is the shaft )

I took the advice offered and started working on it for a second night. I tried many of the suggestions that were given, but NONE worked. That thing just wouldn't move an inch. So, up steps my impatient inner child, and out comes the hacksaw. Yes, I know, "Why did you go and do that?" Well, thats just me. If I can't do it in a civil manner, brute force is soon to follow.

So now I have the wheel off, and am looking for a new helm unit as well. I was thinking of getting the Teleflex Safe-T QC but I don't know if the Safe-T II would be better. Any suggestions? Or would any of you know which one would be more suited to my needs? Remember I have an outboard 55HP Evinrude, if that makes any difference.
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Old 01 August 2006, 10:30   #14
Country: Other
Town: Stanley, Falkland Is
Boat name: Seawolf
Make: Osprey Vipermax 5.8
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 150
Join Date: Mar 2006
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or: "If it jams, force it, if it then breaks then it needed replacing anyway"

A sound principle, I use it all the time
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Old 01 August 2006, 11:44   #15
Country: UK - England
Boat name: Coastalbuzz
Make: Brill Ribcraft
Length: 7m +
Engine: 250suzuki/6/5/5
MMSI: tba
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 328
pauls answer /solution

be careful with pulley etc as the console may not take the load as a friend of mine found out this winter.

We removed steering from the same system as yours after chatting to paul f and I strongly recommend his approach as ours was well stuck on after 10 years approx but came off third attempt.
Had heavy ie me bloke do pulling and someone who can be trusted to whack the threaded shaft. used a hard but of wood to stop burring and left nut on and hey presto!!!
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Old 02 August 2006, 04:04   #16
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Pembroke
Boat name: Rapscallion
Make: Humber Destroyer 6.0
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 150 HPDI
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 70
Wheel removal

1) start with penetrating oil - lots of it, soaked overnight at least.
2) Try applying some gentle heat, assuming your wheel is chromed, not plastic coated / painted. Use a plumbers torch or a hot air gun. Protect the console / instruments with wet cloths.
3) Pull the wheel towards you as hard as you can whilst an assistant taps (hits) the spindle of the steering shaft with a hammer. Leave the nut on the very end to protect the treatds. Beware not to hit so hard as to damage the console or steering gear.
4) Make, hire or buy a steering wheel puller. In the UK most big hire shops / auto shops have these.

The key CANNOT be removed unit the wheel is off

good luck
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Old 02 August 2006, 08:58   #17
Country: USA
Make: Del Magic
Length: 4m +
Engine: Evinrude 55HP
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 5
I really appreciate the help guys, but as I posted a little earlier, I have removed the wheel. It took sawing off the helm to do it, but it was 30yrs old and needed to be replaced anyways. So I am wondering what to replace it with. What is the difference between the Teleflex Safe-T QC and the Safe-T II?

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