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Old 15 September 2011, 16:26   #11
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Hi Trev,

When I purchased the 4.7 about late Jan this year the owner said he had it serviced in late 2010 which included a gear oil change.

It was going in forward and reverse ok until we launched at Baiter on Bank Holiday Monday when a ski boat almost reversed into the side of us near the slip with his engine tilted right up and his prop nearly out of the water. To save a nasty collision and probably the tubes I went from slowly moving forwards to reverse quite quickly and his prop missed us by about 6 inches

I then moved forward again for about 20 feet to sort a few things out before we headed out of the harbour, by this time the current had turned us round so I put it in reverse to turn and thatís when it jumped in and out for gear for the 1st time. I tried it a few times but realised it was time to head home.

If it helps others and like I showed Trev when he bought it, if you put it in reverse and turn the prop it starts to turn the engine over but then slips after about a 10 deg turn, when it does this the gear connection also moves forward up in the engine where the control cable connects to the gear lever and after it has slipped onto the next tooth it engages again.

Iím not sure if it is supposed to lock into position when in gear but it was definitely not doing that after this fault started.

Hope this all helps
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Old 15 September 2011, 16:40   #12
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I would disconnect the cable first and try manually putting it in gear. It may be a cable adjustment issue if you are lucky.
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Old 15 September 2011, 16:51   #13
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Originally Posted by Nasher View Post
Trevor

I think you're looking in the wrong place.
You are looking at parts 2 and 3.

The vertical shaft needs to be split from the horizontal one at the other end.

Nasher.
That's what I thought - but I can't see where I can get to separate the two - I'm sure once I know where to look for either the joint where pins 13 and 14 are, or maybe pin 12 then it will be blatantly obvious!
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Old 15 September 2011, 16:53   #14
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Trevor,

as per my previous post have you tried disconnecting the cable and shifting it manually...

befor you start tearing it down it might be worth making sure..
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Old 15 September 2011, 16:53   #15
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I would disconnect the cable first and try manually putting it in gear. It may be a cable adjustment issue if you are lucky.
I'll give this a go 1st thing in the morning.
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Old 15 September 2011, 17:00   #16
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I'll give this a go 1st thing in the morning.
The only reason I say this Trevor is I had a very similar problem on my first outboard. It went into reverse fine until I had to slam it into reverse on an occassion when I ran over some flotsam and old rope, then it kept jumping out of gear just in reverse.

I found that the cable adjuster had jumped out of place and had allowed the cable to move slightly,just enough to prevent it shifting fully into reverse. When I disconnected the cable it went into reverse fine and I breathed a HUGE sigh of relief..

Good luck
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Old 15 September 2011, 17:04   #17
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Quote:
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That's what I thought - but I can't see where I can get to separate the two - I'm sure once I know where to look for either the joint where pins 13 and 14 are, or maybe pin 12 then it will be blatantly obvious!
Parts 13 and 14 are below the plastic clip holding the round magnet which catches the swarf inside the gearbox, so they are down inside the gearbox and you can't get to them to split it there. It isn't really clear what part 12 is.

On my 200 there is an external joint just above the lower casing which doesn't appear to be present on your 75. You should find that the flattened end of the vertical rod passes through the rubber seals etc shown on the image I posted, so the whole shift rod is removed with the lower casting/gearbox.

The manual I have which covers DT40s of about the same age shows a threaded connector in the middle of the vertical shift rod which allows it to be split like my 200, so it seems odd your 75 does not have anything like that.

Nasher.
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Old 15 September 2011, 17:06   #18
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Quote:
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That's what I thought - but I can't see where I can get to separate the two - I'm sure once I know where to look for either the joint where pins 13 and 14 are, or maybe pin 12 then it will be blatantly obvious!
Right then, here we go:

Using Nasher's diagram, undo nut 3 which will allow the shaft 1 to slide through the bracket 18, thereby disconnecting the crank pin at the opposite end of the shaft 1 from the gearshift rod 8.
If you've removed all the nuts/bolts holding the lower unit to the mid section, the lower unit will now be free to drop out and land on your foot. The gearshift rod comes out complete.
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Old 15 September 2011, 18:30   #19
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Right then, here we go:

.
If you've removed all the nuts/bolts holding the lower unit to the mid section, the lower unit will now be free to drop out and land on your foot.
Note to self... if plan "A" (which is Chris's very sensible idea of checking the simple things first) doesn't work - make sure I put my steel toe-capped boots on before attempting to drop the lower unit!

Thanks guys!
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Old 16 September 2011, 05:10   #20
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I'll give this a go 1st thing in the morning.
To do this, before you start adjusting anything, with the motor switched off, engage reverse gear with the remotes (you may need to turn the prop a little for the clutch dog to engage). then disconnect the gearchange cable from the linkage, checking while doing so, whether there is any further movement in the linkage.

The cable should be adjusted so that when the remote is in the neutral position, the gearchange linkage should be in the centre of the neutral position. This is quite straightforward to achieve. When the gearchange lever is in neutral, with the engine not running, try turning the prop by hand to check whether the clutch dog is slightly fouling either the forward or reverse gear (faint clicking noise). If it is, then the cable needs adjusting.

Good luck.
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