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Old 06 April 2017, 08:11   #11
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Moving onto valve clearances (again a yearly item to check) various hoses... elec conns... and the two fuel pumps need removing or moving aside. Then there are 6 bolts retaining the valve cover. There are marks on the cam pulley which need aligning for each of the cylinders (at TDC) in turn to check the related valves. Three of mine were spot on mid allowed range and one was a fraction tight so I adjusted that one.

The cover gasket is thin metal and Suzuki advise changing each time. Despite its expense of just over £21 I did so as a leak here would be so annoying mid trip/holiday.

Replacing everything is straightforward and I took care to keep to the correct bolt torque figures. Important to remember to reconnect the no start in gear cable and adjust.

*When the valve cover was off I was interested to see the start decompression system. My last image is of one of the two camshaft "pivoted tabs" that at rest and at pulling over speed will slightly open a valve on each cylinder (guessing it will be the exhaust) to ease pulling over. Once the engine fires a weight on the tabs moves out due to centrifugal force and the tab moves away from the valve rocker allowing the valve to fully close.
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Old 06 April 2017, 11:23   #12
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Image below shows the tools I needed to carry out the service.

Also now know costs. £13 of parts used that will need replacing to top up the service kit plus... £8.15 engine oil... £11.27 gear oil... £20.18 for valve cover gasket.... so £52.60 in all.
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Old 06 April 2017, 12:08   #13
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Great write up Fenlander ..and although I have a Yamaha..and service manual..I find it very interesting.


I too am doing all my own servicing..thus the warranty is now null and void. I didn't bother checking the impeller as I wouldn't expect any issue there yet. So good to see you saw no issues with yours.

I didn't check the valve clearance either..thinking it should still be ok..as this is only its second season..so question for you..did you find any needed adjusting ? If so I may check mine this year too.

Thanks for taking the time to write it as you go
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Old 06 April 2017, 13:05   #14
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Spot on David very informative and well presented I totally agree with your desion to DIY service I had my first service at 6 hours which was at 1 month or as the book says 20 hours when it was done dealer had no software to give engine info and didn't even reset the hour duration to 100 hours whilst on holiday the warning lights came up whilst at sea for 20 hours not nice when your in enjoyment mode to then rack your brain thinking what do they mean I new but talked myself out of it and went back to shore at least you know what's been done once again great thread

Cheers
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Old 06 April 2017, 14:13   #15
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Thanks guys. Just need to get it in the water butt tomorrow to check all my work's OK... plus check idle speed and timing. Then it's ready to go and some time planned out next week if weather is OK.

Gurnard you are quite right I could have left checking the impellor but I wanted to go through the schedule by the book this first time then in future years I might tailor the schedule in light of this experience.

Re valve clearances I used a .20mm feeler gauge right in the middle of the allowable range (.18-.22mm). Three were spot on an one a little tighter but it was probably still within range... I set it to the .20mm though so I knew they were all spot on.
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Old 06 April 2017, 15:01   #16
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Fantastic write up. I take my hat off to you because you're prepared to take a detailed interest in your engine and do things systematically. That's not to detract from marine engineers, many who do a damn fine job. Gives you an insight into how everything works which is invaluable when you're on the water.
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Old 07 April 2017, 13:00   #17
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Cheers fenlander I've got a suzuki as well and was thinking of just doing the servicing myself and that info you have given will really help

I'm not using my 4 stroke that much these days because I bought a 2 stroke and don't fancy paying service costs for the 4 stroke which I'm not using it that much

I always wonder about the frequency of checks etc that are recommended by the manufacturer when something isn't being used much. For example do I really need to change the gear oil every year when I've only used it once in the season or can I just skip it and do it every 2nd year - ditto lots of other stuff. I suppose the frequency of checks relate to timescales and amount of use so not an exact science
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Old 07 April 2017, 14:11   #18
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Kind of thinking the same duggie I have 23 hours on mine 2 years old in July only had its 20 service at 6 hours 1 month gear oil I suppose you need to cheack for water ingress but timing belt do they really need replacing at 4 years with low hours if looking as new? But that said my top & bottom bushes have gone so would be my luck for it to go pear shaped lot to be said for the old 2 smokes
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Old 07 April 2017, 15:29   #19
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I know Jeff, I'm toying with the idea of selling my 4 stroke and my 9.8hp 2 stroke and buying a new 15 hp 2 stroke, will plane both my boats, only 1 engine to service and still light enough. Decisions decisions all the time with these inflatables
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Old 08 April 2017, 08:18   #20
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As you say duggie it's not an exact science given varying use... but the makers have to give what they regard as failsafe timescales to protect themselves and their warranty.

I wanted to do this first service by the book so I was 100% sure of everything but will use common sense in following years. Having said that I will probably always change the engine and gear oils yearly as they are cheap "insurance".

The other thing I'll not skimp on is the timing belt change at 4yrs as rubber items can suffer age related failure regardless of hours run. Having one snap is a breakdown which I'd seek to avoid at sea... and on some engines when it snaps there can be expensive valve/rocker damage.
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