steering problems on cable type

[Ian Jones]

As I'm sure Ian G will agree the best answer is to convert to hydralic steering!!!

[Dirk Diggler]

Originally Posted by Rupert Bear

The problem is that I have to turn the wheel slowly to the right to keep the boat in a straight line.

Yep, all the time. It's the reason why they make steering wheels with "equidistant" spokes, you'll just have to get used to it.

Or you could fit cable steering!

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by Rupert Bear

Anybody came across this fault before?

Yes, some boats seem to suffer more than others. I think its caused by torque from the single prop. If you have an anode behind the prop with a fin, this can be adjusted to neutralise the effect, but only for one speed so choose a speed you normally cruise at. Working out which way and how far to move the fin, well thats another saga and would easily fill a book

Pete

[Hightower]

I've a question about cable steering. There seem to be some play in the system, when the control ram is fully retacted (hard lock) there isn't any but as the ram is moved further to other lock the play gets worse. I can grab the outboard and physically move it from side to side when in the more normal "straight line" position. Seems to be comming from side to side play in the ram, like a worn bush, has anyone else had this problem or is it quite normal? Doesn't seem to cause a handling problem, but the wheel does feel sloppy!


Andy

[Pete7]

Andy, yes you should be able to turn the outboard with cable steering. Plan on a life of 5 years for a cable system after which the cable starts to corrode badly (during the winter with zero use) and the helm wears. You could / should grease up the helm regularly by covering the cable inner with grease when its fully out and then turn the wheel to pull the inner cable inside the helm unit.

Pete

[Rupert Bear]

I can't accept that torque should cause so many problems. I am basically slowly turning the wheel all the time.

[Mark Halliday]

Originally Posted by Rupert Bear

I can't accept that torque should cause so many problems. I am basically slowly turning the wheel all the time.

I had this problem (as Dirk says you get used to it) with my Sea Star steering.
Pete is right, adjust the anode/skeg to neutralise it, that is what it there for. When you are happy with the setting punch a mark on the gear box housing in line with the marker on the skeg, so you can fit next years at the same angle.
The Sea Star steering pump seems not to be a positive displacement unit, it is more like a car power steering pump or torque converter, therefore you will have some creep, and you keep turning the wheel to offset the torque reaction from the prop if the skeg is not compensating for it.