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Old 24 February 2009, 11:43   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post
Disclaimer: I haven't read more than first few posts. Sorry if I'm stepping on toes.

If the bolts go into the block, they'll withstand a good deal of heat. Drilling and an EZ-out after heating the block should do it (assuming they're large enough to work with.) I'd go with a heatgun, but I suppose careful application of a propane torch would work as well.

jky
Easyouts are OK as long as they dont snap off! theyre nigh on impossible to drill out even with a modified carbide tipped masonry drill and the left hand threaded ones can expand the bolt as you screw them in making it even tighter.
I had the most sucess with the snap on ones that are a hard splined shaft you wack in and turn with a special socket.
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Old 24 February 2009, 13:12   #42
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I would try welding a nut to what is sticking out and see if that works.
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Old 24 February 2009, 16:18   #43
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i have been removing studs for many years and drilling then stud extractors are very awkward and like most people say if they break/and they usually do theyre a nightmare. the way i do it is- tig weld a big blob on top of stud then a washer then a nut welded to washer on outside, then i use an air hammer gun which mechanics usually have, but very carefully tighten and untighten and usually the hammer action clears the threads of corrosion and lots of penetrating oil also helps
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Old 24 February 2009, 18:23   #44
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Originally Posted by slimtim View Post

I said in post one my outboard was a 4 stroke, why I said that I don't know but no one seemed to notice

Didn't want to pick you up on that Tim - sounded like you were having a bad enough day as it was!

Duncan
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Old 25 February 2009, 05:38   #45
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Tap (hit) the ends of them to shock the dross
nevver mynd tapp. wakk de fkker wiv a lummp ammer

giv de studd a libberul coetin ov nytro glisserine furst.

thenn yew cann yewse de mowle gripps too gett de fkin studd owt ov yor iyeborl


garF
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Old 25 February 2009, 14:24   #46
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The RibNet suspense is killing me slimtim 'ave you got em out yet?
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Old 25 February 2009, 15:44   #47
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I have yet to try as I've been a bit busy trying to find myself a job. I've been soaking everything in plusgas as much as I can and will try and sort it out next week.
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Old 02 March 2009, 14:48   #48
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ok tried plan A today without much success. We drilled one bolt and attempted to use an easy out with a bit of heat (not enough I don't think). Predictably the easy out snapped
This was expected but I'd thought we'd give it a go anyway.

So now we are going to try and get the last 4 bolts out without snapping them. we tried using a blow torch today but it didn't seemed to get it very hot and we couldn't get the bolt out (I didn't want to try it too hard at this stage). I think the heat is just dissipating into the block. Those who have suggested the blow torch technique, how do you get round this problem? How long should I be holding the torch there for?

If I don't have any luck, next stage is to take off the gearcase and run the engine as suggested. This, with my limited experience, I think is risky so any other advice on how long I do it for would be appreciated (Nos, you suggested doing the spit test on the exhaust plate, thats all good but where's the exhaust plate?! ...up inside the leg I'm thinking).

Looking on the brightside, I managed to get my trailer wheel spinning again and the cooling system seems to have unblocked which was the whole reason for taking this plate off in the first place
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Old 02 March 2009, 17:04   #49
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I think you will just have to accept that the other 4 bolts will snap - you can't do much more damage..........

Then IF there is enough sticking up weld a nut onto the top - soak everything for a while with WD40 or similar and then try again - tighten slightly before loosening.

And good luck!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 02 March 2009, 17:20   #50
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where's the exhaust plate?!
It's the cover you're trying to remove


If you've got an easy-out snapped in there you need professional help to sort it out.
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