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Old 24 February 2009, 08:45   #31
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What you want to do is break the join between bolt and hole, two disimilar metals will expand at different rates at this will break joint.

As regards the easy out, I have a Kennedy set which is pretty good and never let me down, however we are talking of small bolts here and tricky with any method you use, you might well end up drilling them out and possibly either heli-coiling or tapping them to the next size of M8 if this is possible.

As for the drilling side of things then do as I suggested and try to use a guide bush for central drilling, a good quality drill and some cutting fluid will tackle the studs
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Old 24 February 2009, 09:04   #32
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ok makes sense Matt, I was thinking of maybe heating everything and then squirting the bolt with that "cold stuff in a can" that someone posted a link to on page 1.

Andy, thanks for the tips. Really not sure about heli-coiling or re-tapping up to M8 as I can't see how much material I have to play with until the plate is off.

Plenty of advice for me to go on here, I just need to decide which approach to go with...

1. Do I leave the bottom bolts (and so the plate) intact and try and drill/"easy out" the broken studs (with heat and plusgas too) and replace with new bolts without ever removing the plate?

or

2. Do I attempted to remove the bottom bolts by using heat/plusgas/luck/power of the jedi but risk snapping those off too and thus ruling out option 1?

Having just looked at the engine, I'm not sure I will be able to take the block off as after initial inspection it seems I may have to remove the rear coolant ducting plate which may well lead to the same problem!
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Old 24 February 2009, 09:15   #33
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Post a photo!!!
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Old 24 February 2009, 09:46   #34
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here ya go codders...

You can see from the pics the 9 (not 10 as I had thought) holes and the 4 bolts at the bottom that I have not yet touched (and one further up).

I have also done a close up of the top corner to show the plate-gasket-spacer plate-gasket-block arrangement (or as far as I can tell this is what it is). All bolts appear to have sheared at the outer plate/outer gasket join so in theory there should be about 4mm of stud sticking out if I do ever get the plates and gaskets off.
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Old 24 February 2009, 10:10   #35
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Typical the one thing we needed to see and you can't!!!

How much of the bolt would stick out if that cover was removed? The same amount as the thickness of the cover or will they be almost flush when the cover is removed?
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Old 24 February 2009, 10:12   #36
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I reckon about 4mm should be sticking out assuming the spacer and gaskets come off easily.

I said in post one my outboard was a 4 stroke, why I said that I don't know but no one seemed to notice
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Old 24 February 2009, 10:18   #37
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there's probably no easy short cut here! bite the bullet and take the powerhead off the leg so you can get at it properly, snap/undo the rest and remove the plate and then tackle the problem. It will be a lot easier if theres no restricted access and you can lay the powerhead down to drill the studs.
Make sure if you cant undo the studs and decide to drill them that you start and continue centrally.
The welding a nut on trick usually works well, if you can get a stut to start moving keep gently working at it until it frees with plenty of penetrating fluid.
Titaniun nitride coated drill keep their edge a bit longer too.
Or for really hard studs and drilling springs i use masonry drills sharpened on a white diamond stone to a suitable angle.
at least if you get them all out and remove the plate the finished jobs a good un.
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Old 24 February 2009, 10:24   #38
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[quote=Hightower;283315]
you might well end up drilling them out and possibly either heli-coiling or tapping them to the next size of M8 if this is possible.[quote]


You can get M7 too.......peugeot use M7 not very common though. might be a possibility if there not suffecient meat for M8
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Old 24 February 2009, 11:07   #39
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Originally Posted by doggypaddle View Post
there's probably no easy short cut here! bite the bullet and take the powerhead off the leg so you can get at it properly, snap/undo the rest and remove the plate and then tackle the problem. It will be a lot easier if theres no restricted access and you can lay the powerhead down to drill the studs.
Make sure if you cant undo the studs and decide to drill them that you start and continue centrally.
The welding a nut on trick usually works well, if you can get a stut to start moving keep gently working at it until it frees with plenty of penetrating fluid.
Titaniun nitride coated drill keep their edge a bit longer too.
Or for really hard studs and drilling springs i use masonry drills sharpened on a white diamond stone to a suitable angle.
at least if you get them all out and remove the plate the finished jobs a good un.


Yep-with only 4mm of the bolt showing , this is probably the best suggestions. I thought the plate would be thicker-disregard my last post..
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Old 24 February 2009, 11:21   #40
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Originally Posted by slimtim View Post
Considered the heat option, but not sure how far I can take it though before melting or distorting something.

Disclaimer: I haven't read more than first few posts. Sorry if I'm stepping on toes.

If the bolts go into the block, they'll withstand a good deal of heat. Drilling and an EZ-out after heating the block should do it (assuming they're large enough to work with.) I'd go with a heatgun, but I suppose careful application of a propane torch would work as well.

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