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Old 23 February 2009, 15:22   #11
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Another method I've used in the past is to put a nut on the top of a stud or broken bolt. Then put a blob of weld in the middle to connect the two.
The combination of the heat and the new 'head' can release it.

Of course all our methods assume you have the plate off and a small stub of each bolt sticking out.

If they break off flush its out with the extractors or Heli-coils.

Nasher
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Old 23 February 2009, 16:07   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSP View Post
http://www.screwfix.com/search.do?fh...NJ1Q&source=aw

But make sure you get decent bits to go with it.
I think this is what Codders meant.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-22322.../dp/B0001K9R8U
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Old 23 February 2009, 16:26   #13
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re

Take the gearbox off and run the engine. After 30 seconds the exhaust plate will get as hot as you will ever get it using a blow torch. This way you are heating the whole side of the engine. If they do not come out now they will never come out without drilling. Do not try this method on Yamaha 80 /100 or the equivalent Mariner / Merc. hth.
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Old 23 February 2009, 16:36   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler View Post
Blow lamp and mole grips


We give the stud a go with this to help after warming the area

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...94954590&Nty=1
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Old 23 February 2009, 16:38   #15
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As others have said, you need to be very careful if you try and drill out the bolt or use an eazi-out (tapered tap with reverse thread) as it is very easy to drift off the bolt (damaging the casting and at best requiring a bigger helicoil / bolt) with the drill or snap off the tap (requiring spark erosion to remove).

If it were me, if the heat / mole grips / plusgas / impact driver don't work, I would take it to a machine shop who should be able drill / tap out the bolts relatively painlessly (and cheaply).

Cheers

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Old 23 February 2009, 16:39   #16
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Thanks all for the advice. Dirk, good to know I can be fairly heavy handed with the heat, I'll try this first if I have to end up taking the plate off, which I think is actually my only option. If I do this however I will almost definitely have to remove the block which may well mean I have problems with other bolts.

Nasher, trip was great thanks but I missed the ribbing! I guess snowboarding in perfect powder and riding some of the best lift accessed mountain biking in the world made up for it a little The welding nut thing is a good option if the mole grips don't work.

Cheers,

Tim
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Old 23 February 2009, 16:48   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davie View Post
Take the gearbox off and run the engine. After 30 seconds the exhaust plate will get as hot as you will ever get it using a blow torch. This way you are heating the whole side of the engine. If they do not come out now they will never come out without drilling. Do not try this method on Yamaha 80 /100 or the equivalent Mariner / Merc. hth.
I thought about running the engine to heat it up but how long can I do it for without coolant without completely buggering up the engine?! Seems a bit risky to me
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Old 23 February 2009, 17:00   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris View Post
I think this is what Codders meant.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-22322.../dp/B0001K9R8U
I was looking for a link to the hand tool version as I prefer them but I have seen some of the Drill versions work well.
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Old 23 February 2009, 18:37   #19
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I thought about running the engine to heat it up but how long can I do it for without coolant without completely buggering up the engine?! Seems a bit risky to me
You won't have to do it for long-there'll be no cooling water hitting the exhaust plate. Spit test it-when it sizzles when you spit on it, it's hot enough.

As Nasher said, don't use an easy-out. On an M6 thread, it'll expand the broken bolt so far it'll never come out. You may find some joy using a stud extractor, but mole grips are just as good with the proviso that it's got to be a good quality pair of mole grips of the right size. Cheap, oversized or worn mole grips will just make a mess.
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Old 23 February 2009, 18:52   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris View Post
I think this is what Codders meant.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-22322.../dp/B0001K9R8U
Yup.

Use a very thin grinding disk or a hacksaw and put a slot into the end of the stud turning it into a screw.

Heat and Mole grips are the first choice though!!!
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