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Old 23 January 2014, 21:58   #1
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Servicing a Yamaha 50Hp two stroke

Hi
I have decided to service my engine myself (50GETO) - used to regularly service and take apart motorbike engines so I think I can do this.

I've got a service kit from Warsash Marine and I've read the 194 page(!) manual. I've condensed what I think I need to do down to the following:

Spark plugs – replace
Clean fuel filter and replace strainer
Carbs – ????
Ignition timing – ??????
Check all fuel and oil pipes
Grease all linkages
Power trim and tilt – check fluid and top up if necessary
Grease nipples - grease
Propeller – remove, check spline for wear and grease
Clean anode with wire brush
Replace gear oil (watched youtube video on this)
Water pump impellor – replace (have found various threads and youtube videos on this and how to drop the leg)
Battery – old one not holding charge so replace
Thermostat - ?????

The engine is in good condition and runs well.

I'd be grateful for any advice on what I might be missing.

Thanks in advance
Neil
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Old 23 January 2014, 22:24   #2
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Hi
I have decided to service my engine myself (50GETO) - used to regularly service and take apart motorbike engines so I think I can do this.

I've got a service kit from Warsash Marine and I've read the 194 page(!) manual. I've condensed what I think I need to do down to the following:

Spark plugs – replace
Clean fuel filter and replace strainer
Carbs – ????
Ignition timing – ??????
Check all fuel and oil pipes
Grease all linkages
Power trim and tilt – check fluid and top up if necessary
Grease nipples - grease
Propeller – remove, check spline for wear and grease
Clean anode with wire brush
Replace gear oil (watched youtube video on this)
Water pump impellor – replace (have found various threads and youtube videos on this and how to drop the leg)
Battery – old one not holding charge so replace
Thermostat - ?????

The engine is in good condition and runs well.

I'd be grateful for any advice on what I might be missing.

Thanks in advance
Neil
Hi Neil.

Not much missed off.
I have serviced and maintained my owm for 20+ years.
However I tend to do less than you listed.

All I do yearly is
check the spark plugs. Only replace if necessary.
Check the gearbox oil (if it's white or black change it!)
I renew the impeller when I buy an engine, then just keep my eye on it, if it gets weaker change it, they usually do a few seasons easy.
But that's with knowing what's in there because I fitted it!
Grease up and lubrication.
Check oil levels etc.
Corrosion guard sprayed under cowling etc.

I leave everything else alone, if it ain't broke dont fiddle with it!

I don't winterise the engine either. I just start it up on the hose every 3 weeks or so if I haven't been using it.
Let it run for a few mins.
Turn the steering full lock either was and stop it in a different place to prevent any tightness.
Job done.

But I do carry spare plugs, water pump and impeller gearbox oil etc in the boat with tools. So if I do have an issue I can sort it there and then.
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Old 24 January 2014, 07:23   #3
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Thanks really helpful. I will invest in a can of corrosion guard
Cheers
Neil
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Old 24 January 2014, 07:44   #4
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Thanks really helpful. I will invest in a can of corrosion guard
Cheers
Neil
Yeah. It's not cheap but it puts am oily film over everything and stops water getting in and obviously corrosion.

I spray it on a few times a year when I'm having a nose about to check all is still ok.

I even spray it on things like the trailer wheels, nuts and bolts etc to keep them good.

All the best.
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Old 24 January 2014, 16:10   #5
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Check the gearbox oil (if it's white or black change it!)
How do you check it without draining it? And if you drain it, why not replace?

Simple enough, and not a great quantity of oil, so...

jky
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Old 24 January 2014, 16:23   #6
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How do you check it without draining it? And if you drain it, why not replace?

Simple enough, and not a great quantity of oil, so...

jky
Good point.
I renew the oil when I buy the engine, only ever use quicksilver oils though!
Then next time just crack the screw off for a split second. The tiny drop that comes off tells me enough to check it.
But if there is any doubt it gets changed again.
Just experience and judgment really and knowing when and how it was changed.

Oh and I'm too tight to spend the money till its necassary! But that's just me.
:-)
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Old 24 January 2014, 16:40   #7
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Originally Posted by Ribandmotorhome View Post
Good point.
I renew the oil when I buy the engine, only ever use quicksilver oils though!
Then next time just crack the screw off for a split second. The tiny drop that comes off tells me enough to check it.
But if there is any doubt it gets changed again.
Just experience and judgment really and knowing when and how it was changed.

Oh and I'm too tight to spend the money till its necassary! But that's just me.
:-)
so, assuming it looks ok when you do your drip test, how long would you leave it before changing the oil, 1 season, 2 ......
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Old 24 January 2014, 17:16   #8
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so, assuming it looks ok when you do your drip test, how long would you leave it before changing the oil, 1 season, 2 ......
All depends how often it's been used really.
I have left it 3 seasons in the past but the engine at the time wasn't being used often at all each year.
I suppose normally replace it every other season but for the last 8 years I have not kept any boat for more than 2 years! So have only done it on purchase.

When my dad was involved with the OCR circuit we changed the oil every race or so but that's for racing.

However changing it yearly is not a bad idea at all just to be sure! :-)
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Old 24 January 2014, 17:21   #9
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I don't know much about engines, and I'm the one that's just sold his engine as a non runner for spares / repair but surely for the cost of a can of gearbox oil once a year it's worth replacing it anyway regardless of what colour it is.

Chris
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Old 24 January 2014, 17:36   #10
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I don't know much about engines, and I'm the one that's just sold his engine as a non runner for spares / repair but surely for the cost of a can of gearbox oil once a year it's worth replacing it anyway regardless of what colour it is.

Chris
Yes it is. But it all adds up!

Mind you, no offence ment at all here Chris, I would have had it off and fixed it myself.
If only to get it running to sell it on for more.
Assuming it was cost effective to do so that is.
But I'm in a lucky position because my dad is an engineer by trade and used to race powerboats.
So he has a barn full of tools and odds and sods that I can use, obviously saving a fortune on costs.
I was also a HND trained mechanic but I haven't been on the tools for 15 years, so forgotten most of it! Oops.
Mind you I'm annoyed, got to buy my first bottle of quicksilver 9 years because his cupboard has finally run out of it!
He will get a complaint! :-)
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Old 24 January 2014, 17:39   #11
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By the way for reference.
If the oil is milky it has water in it.
If it is dark black it has passed its useable life.
Either way. Change it!
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Old 24 January 2014, 19:08   #12
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Originally Posted by chris.moody View Post
I don't know much about engines, and I'm the one that's just sold his engine as a non runner for spares / repair but surely for the cost of a can of gearbox oil once a year it's worth replacing it anyway regardless of what colour it is.

Chris
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Old 24 January 2014, 19:33   #13
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Reckon the thermostat should be on your list. Not suggesting you replace it unless you think the block is running hot, but at the very least pop it off, wire brush it, check cooling passage for salt build up, new gasket, etc.

I'd also look at electrical bullet connectors, lightly clean with fine sandpaper and re-connect.

Manual start engines, renew starter rope every second season.

Gear oil, change every season regardless of hours.
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Old 24 January 2014, 21:24   #14
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Thanks - I'll have a read of the manual re the thermostat
Cheers
Neil
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Old 24 January 2014, 21:31   #15
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Thanks - I'll have a read of the manual re the thermostat
Cheers
Neil
If you loosen the bolts on the housing and use a thin strip of metal (I use feeler gauges) in behind the plate, you can wiggle it and work it all the way round. To separate the plate from the gasket.

Then you will probably get the thermostat out with out damaging or ripping the gasket. So it can go back together if all is ok inside
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Old 29 January 2014, 21:07   #16
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Carburettor bowl gaskets also if you are removing the carbs are pretty good to have also. They are rubber and can stretch sometimes when removing . You can get a carb repair kit for the motor that inlcludes all of the parts and new float needles and gaskets for about £120.
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Old 27 February 2014, 19:11   #17
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All done and I managed not to break anything!

Spark plugs – replaced
Cleaned fuel filter and replaced strainer
Checked all fuel and oil pipes
Greased all linkages
Grease nipples x 3 - greased
Propeller – checked spline for wear and greased
Cleaned anode with wire brush
Replaced gear oil
Water pump impellor – replaced
Thermostat – cleaned and checked (I knew that jam making thermometer in the drawer would have a use!)
Battery – old one not holding charge so replaced and terminal connections redone.

Actually quite enjoyed doing it and now feel more familiar with the engine and how it works. Thanks for all your advice.
Cheers
Neil
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Old 27 February 2014, 20:08   #18
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Well done , 1 thing never wire brush anodes use sand paper . Steal bristles will polish Ali / or zinc anode
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Old 27 February 2014, 20:34   #19
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Thanks for the tip - I'll give it a quick sand
Cheers
Neil
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