Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 19 October 2008, 17:39   #11
Member
 
Andy JC's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Bristol
Make: Honwave T35AE
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 18hp
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 374
Have a look here to find part's and part numbers.

Also useful to see how the engine goes together
__________________

__________________
Andy JC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20 October 2008, 14:47   #12
Member
 
Pete7's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Gosport
Boat name: April Lass
Make: Moody 31
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,850
One advantage with marine oil is that it comes in a tube with a nozzle that you will need to squirt the oil from the lower hole until it flows out of the upper hole. This ensures their are no air pockets. How many do you need, not sure on a 50 hp but best to have 3 set up ready to go because you need to be quick or the oil will run out. A second pair of hands ready to pass them to you is useful. When you drop the gearbox to do the water pump their is probably a hidden bolt under the annode to watch out for. The rest is childs play so long as you don't upset the carb balance or timing.

Worth also giving the cable end that goes into the steering box a good squirt of grease whilst your doing the engine, its often neglected. Easist way is to take the cable out and then wind it back in again after a good greasing. You can try grease on the ram end but it won't stay their long.

Pete
__________________

__________________
.
Ribnet is best viewed on a computer of some sort
Pete7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20 October 2008, 15:15   #13
Member
 
Country: Other
Town: some warm anchorage
Boat name: depends how I feel..
Make: Honwave Air 3.2
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 18 2 Stroke
MMSI: VHF 16 who wants DSC
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 70
it will almost certainly be SAE 80 or 90 gear oil, there isnt a marine version afaik, so just use car stuff, its the same, if you look in your motor factors you will get the tube with the pipe and the neck of the tube normall fits stright into the bottom filler hole.
Fist thing to do is remove the leg if you want to check the impellor, that will give you a good indication (removing the leg) of the general care that has been taken of the engine re flushing and servicing.
__________________
ruddles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20 October 2008, 15:32   #14
Member
 
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete7 View Post
One advantage with marine oil is that it comes in a tube with a nozzle that you will need to squirt the oil from the lower hole until it flows out of the upper hole. This ensures their are no air pockets. How many do you need, not sure on a 50 hp but best to have 3 set up ready to go because you need to be quick or the oil will run out.
In theory (not so much in practice, though) you remove both plugs, allow the leg to drain, then, as Pete says, squirt the oil up from the bottom hole. When it starts to flow out the top, you replace the *top* plug. The resulting vacuum will hold the oil in the leg long enough to get the lower plug in.

In practice, it makes a mess no matter how careful you are. I do find that the screw-in pump thingies (and a bottle of oil) tends to be neater than trying to use the tubes. Might be just me, though (I may be squeeze-tube challenged or something.)

jky
__________________
jyasaki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20 October 2008, 15:40   #15
RIBnet supporter
 
bedajim's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambs/Northants
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,499
Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post
In theory (not so much in practice, though) you remove both plugs, allow the leg to drain, then, as Pete says, squirt the oil up from the bottom hole. When it starts to flow out the top, you replace the *top* plug. The resulting vacuum will hold the oil in the leg long enough to get the lower plug in.

In practice, it makes a mess no matter how careful you are. I do find that the screw-in pump thingies (and a bottle of oil) tends to be neater than trying to use the tubes. Might be just me, though (I may be squeeze-tube challenged or something.)

jky

I always pump a some oil into the top hole after draining to flush out any solids left behind from the old oil

Jim
__________________
bedajim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20 October 2008, 16:41   #16
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Gloucestershire
Boat name: Osprey
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 5m +
Engine: E-tec 300 G2
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,013
When you do the oil change whip off the prop and run the engine on muffs at idle in gear for a few minutes to warm up the oil in the gearbag before draining.
__________________
---------------------------------------------------
Chris Stevens

Born fiddler
Chris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20 October 2008, 18:31   #17
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: bedford
Make: tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: outboard 60hp merc
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 210
Hi

I have an 80s 3 cyl 60hp 2 stroke Merc and recently obtained all the parts for a full service from Key Parts in Watford, they are on the web. While a standard service is pretty easy I would strongly suggest that you get a workshop manuel.



Required parts:

Spark plugs

Gear oil, plus two new washers for the drain and vent screws

small plastic inline filter

impeller

Fuel pump diaphram kit

maybe a spin on fuelfilter/water seperator.


All this for mine came from Key Parts for 72 inc tax and shipping.

Speak to Richard.

Good Luck









Quote:
Originally Posted by Polwart View Post
Search here - there are differing opinions, but most people do use the marine stuff. You'll get that in any engine dealer/yacht chandlers.

As for the impellor I would definitely try to change it on an engine that is as old as that. It only costs about 15. There is a good thread here by Richard B on how to do it. Probably your worst case is you can't get the bolts out to get the leg off etc. If that is going to be a problem better to find out now.
__________________
davej is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21 October 2008, 02:20   #18
Member
 
Locozodiac's Avatar
 
Country: Other
Town: Lima-Peru
Boat name: Nautile
Make: Sea Rider Boats
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 18 /30 HP
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,706
Quote:
Originally Posted by bedajim View Post
I always pump a some oil into the top hole after draining to flush out any solids left behind from the old oil

Jim
I'll second that internal gear cleaning method, you could use any good quality gear oil 80-90 grade or multigrade 80/90 works perfect.

Happy Boating
__________________
Locozodiac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21 October 2008, 05:44   #19
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,610
I'm looking at replacing the Yam with one of these. (see my other posts regarding helicoils )

Any of you guys & gals know of any common problems with them? I've seen a few refs to the top cyl running slightly hotter, but that can be cured with a higher heat tranfer spark plug.


Ayhow, if you're dropping the leg, there's an interesting article on Iboats on a cooling problem on a 60. Might be worth chasing it. (link is on the other PC, so if you can't find it let me know & I'll post it form there)
__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 22 October 2008, 08:04   #20
JSP
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
Thanks for all the info everyone. I have been taking it in but I'm living away from home at the moment and only have poxy mobile broadband. Oh the joy's of being married
__________________

__________________
JSP is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:19.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.