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Old 05 July 2004, 03:40   #11
Country: UK - England
Town: scotland
Boat name: Leviathan
Make: Phantom
Length: 8m +
Engine: GM Diesels
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,437
Make sure the socket you use (my reccomendation) is a hex socket rather than the usual bi-hex (12 point) as they are more likely to slip on a rusted, reduced size nut....So, a good quality, six sided socket, after plenty of easing oil such as WD40, or plus gas, soaked over a day or two.

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Old 05 July 2004, 04:39   #12
Country: UK - England
Town: Nutbourne
Boat name: Renegade
Make: Porter
Length: 6m +
Engine: 140 Tohatsu
MMSI: 235022904
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,195
Clean off the exposed threads first. No point in trying to scrape all thet rust off as you undo the nut.
Plus Gas applied for several days before will make it much easier to move.
A nut splitter is the best route but it looks if the bolts may be too close to get one on.
My chosen method, if this were my problem, would be a sharp 1/2" cold chisel and a 12oz hammer. Either split along the bolt, or from the side to cut a notch and tap the nut round to unscrew it.

Mark H
"A common mistake that people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools" Douglas Adams
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Old 05 July 2004, 05:19   #13
Country: UK - England
Town: Farnborough
Boat name: Eleven
Make: Arrow
Length: 8m +
Engine: 557cu, 700hp
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,255
Yet another method, you can split the nut with a dremel and a tiny cutting disc.

But IMHO, cleaning the crud off and using a socket as detailed by mr fuller would be a good, non destructive, starting point.
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Old 05 July 2004, 14:40   #14
Country: UK - England
Town: east cowes
Make: academic
Length: no boat
Engine: fresh air
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 540
something I have tried in the past is to put a series of drill holes down the side of the nut, 2 to 3mm. Be careful not to damage the stud threads too much. Then hopefully that will relax the nut enough to get it off, if not then get a medium screwdriver and hammer and tap the remaining metal in between the holes.
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Old 05 July 2004, 16:02   #15
Hightower's Avatar
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,829
Wow what a great response, thanks everybody. I was thinking about this problem at work today, trying to think of a cheat!

What I'm trying to achieve is to exploit my outboards turning capabilities by moving the linkage nut towards the pivot point, 50mm should do it. I am also looking on equalling the steering from left to right (turns harder to starboard at mo). I thought at the weekend that I'd like to remove the bracket complete and replace with something new, but I couldn't face the consequences if it all went wrong, so what I suggest is this:

I am going to manufacture a piece of stainless with a female profile cut out to fit exactly on the end of the steering arm (this will stop the arm moving sideways), I will bolt this in place. The linkage arm from the remotes will then bolt exactly where I want without resorting to a possible engine strip. I will then if I'm not completely satisfied with the installation attempt the bolt removal during the winter months.

Thanks all,

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