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Old 28 August 2015, 15:15   #31
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I might be corrected here but I too have my Suzuki to run in spells it out in the manual you get so I will follow that, don't forget if you have warranty issues they can tell on the computer exactly how it's been run certainly with the 90hp they can so my advice would be as others have said run it to the book lot of money invested not to.

Cheers
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Old 28 August 2015, 15:36   #32
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Originally Posted by Mickhitchuk View Post
Thank you thank you,walking up the garden to switch motor off, as I was going to it tell tale stopped, bag had blown into my tub and blocked intake, couple of minutes later and may have blown my motor
So bloody lucky

Complete and utter Donkey
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Old 28 August 2015, 21:15   #33
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I ran my clamshell in after the total rebuild by following the instructions candidate motoring at mind numbing speed from dunstaffnage to Tyndrum.


I then allowed it to go to the dizzy heights of 2500 rpm during the canoe bit of 70 wild miles and "horsed" back at the dizzy heights of 3000 rpm.

Where I'm going here is there will always be a suitable cruise for your rev limitations. ....
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Old 29 August 2015, 04:55   #34
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Unfortunately there will always be those that think they know better than the engine manufacturer. Hopefully this won't end in tears at some point in the future with posts on problems with the engine.

Mind you, I can't help wondering if this is a bit of trolling & the OP hasn't actually got an engine. Things like the bag incident just seem a bit too contrived.
Another forum has the 'custard test' where a picture of the item is posted with a tin of custard (preferably Birds ) on it to show that the poster actually does have what they claim. I look forward to being proved wrong.
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Old 29 August 2015, 05:35   #35
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This for your help all, off on holiday now, sort out run in when I get back
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Old 29 August 2015, 05:43   #36
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If you could run in on muffs / tank then it would be an option dealers offered...
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Old 29 August 2015, 05:52   #37
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>>>read many warnings about NOT using water-muffs to run any outboard

Loads of folks flush with muffs so I guess they are OK but I will always use a large tub. A significant reason is the exhaust noise when on muffs being annoying to neighbours but also I'd rather be running the outboard as intended with back pressure so the idle is correct and the impellor doing all the work... to properly assess how it's running and pumping.
Yes lot's of people FLUSH there motors with muffs..a few seconds to rinse it out. But when I'm tuning up, testing or adjusting I, like most mechanics people take their motors to for tune-up and repair, sit it's bottom in a test tank, be it a barrel or whatever. Not so it can be reved in gear but to allow it, as you say, to properly circulate water..based on it's own suction.
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Old 29 August 2015, 05:52   #38
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This for your help all, off on holiday now, sort out run in when I get back
Doesn't count without the custard
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Old 29 August 2015, 07:15   #39
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Talking of flushing does the water circulate around/in the water pump when you use the flush point mine's a Suzuki I think yam have one as well just wondered for running engine whilst flushing through there with water not getting to the impeller

Cheers
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Old 29 August 2015, 11:58   #40
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Talking of flushing does the water circulate around/in the water pump when you use the flush point mine's a Suzuki I think yam have one as well just wondered for running engine whilst flushing through there with water not getting to the impeller

Cheers
My Yam 115hp says you should not run the engine when using the flush point!
It is just for flushing out after use NOT running the engine!!!
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