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Old 18 March 2011, 08:09   #1
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Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Ginger
Make: Avon SR4
Length: 4m +
Engine: 30hp yamaha
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 207
Remotes + steering for yam outboard

Hi guys.

The weather is getting nicer so thinking of doing some boat work. I have a yamaha 40fm (I think it's 80s same as the mariners of the time) manual start and trim that I'd like to add remote steering and throttle control to - tiller was alright last year but I'd really prefer a nice console on the tunnel hull sib.

I can't seem to find any info on the steering or throttle remotes the engine is compatible with on google etc, and was wondering if anyone had any ideas how to go about getting hold of the right bits? I keep seeing universal tele flex style systems, but how universal are they really? I could take some pics of the engine when I get home if that would help so you know what the remote mount points on the engine look like - not sure if that would help?

Any help gratefully appreciated.
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Old 18 March 2011, 12:39   #2
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Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,611
There are two ways of looking at remotes - one is that you still have manual start, the other is "full" remote control.

For Manual start / remote operation, read on:

Now, I don't know your engine, but I would guess any standard steering bowden will fit through your clamp & swivel bracket, it's the throttle & gear cables that might need a few bits inside.

Pop the lid off, and see if there is a removable lump or lumps on the front of your cowl. In line with that might be one or two pins or balls on the end of a couple of levers. That;s what your cables attatch to. Some engines allow you to keep the tiller connected, others you need to remocve the cables form the tiller throttle & replace them with the remote cables. If you have two pins or balls as described above (that moe in sinc with your throttle & gears) then you can jsut plug straight in.

Electrics wise you may fins a multipole connector with a blanking plug, otherwise you'll need to run a couple of cores of wire to your deadman at the console, If no obvious connector, post back & we'll tell you what needs to be connected to what.

The good thing about manual start is that pretty much any remotes box will work with it.




For full blown electric start, you will need a starter & battery along with an alternator (assuming yours doesn't have battery charging for toys already built in). That becomes a whole bigger discussion, so post back & we can take it form there.
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Old 19 March 2011, 10:32   #3
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Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Ginger
Make: Avon SR4
Length: 4m +
Engine: 30hp yamaha
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 207
Thanks for the reply. I will indeed be aiming to keep it manual start, remote operation - it just seems simpler and likely more reliable with less to go wrong (and less weight!). The engine is wedged behind some things in the garage at the mo, but will see if i can attach some pics of it.
Basically I think its had remotes on it in the past. There is a throttle lever on the side of the motor next to the gear select, which moves when i twist the throttle on the tiller (its the little level near the 1:100 text on the first image). Additionally, there seems to be some cable mounting brackets near the front of the engine, and a plate on the outboard near the clamp which i assume was part of a steering set up. I think I can see whats going on a bit better now Ive had a good look and a read of the other posts on the forum, but just to confirm - should most generic throttle boxes work ok, and do i need anyhting special other than cables and a steering wheel kit to set up steering? ive seen some people buying steering guide attachment bar thingies - would something like that be needed?
There doesnt seem to be a hole in the cowel or anything inside that isnt attached to the throttle lever on the side previously described.

Many thanks for your input
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Old 20 March 2011, 15:45   #4
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Country: Denmark
Town: Copenhagen
Make: Zodiac futura mk. II
Length: 4m +
Engine: 40 hp 2t
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 24
Interesting! im looking for information on the same subject,, But for a 15hp Johnson 1990. Teleflex cables a steering wheel? seems easy, i whant to build/get a jockey seat combined with mounting options for steering and trottle controle. Ill kep my manual start, it starts soo easy so there is no point in adding more kilos and use money on that...
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Old 21 March 2011, 06:20   #5
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Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
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OK, that is slighjtly older than I thought. On the plus side, you have the standard 1970s remote connector for the gears. I'm going from memory here, but do you have a lever lurking on the bottom half of the cowl round the other side to the gear change, probably in line with a similar "screwed on" bracket?

This makes it really easy to connect throttle & gears (and also should it all go pear shaped, shed the cables and go straight back to tiller operation) Any mechanical lever box will work. If you look around on boat jumbles, there are plent of teleflex / ultraflex generic levers - Just be aware the older ones may not have the Neutral catch, so can be knocked into gear accidentally. Yam also do a cheap & cheerful one for "mechanical only" (i.e no key switches etc)

Assuming you don't get the Yam one you need to look for a set of throttle / gear cable end connectors - Cost somewhere between 5-10. If the "boat jumble" box doesn't have cables any of the teleflex ./ Ultraflex "standard" should fit. No idea where you are, but if you are in the SE, TCS usually have the kits in stock. Most engine related chandlers should have something that will fit. On an engine like that the gear connectors are pretty standard, the throttles are a bit more unique between brands.


If you pop the lid, what you need to do for the deadman is follow the wires form your current switch to where they connect in, then either "T" off the two cores or unplug & plug the wire to your console in. then buy another (in this case yam, so you can have a bit of interchangeability & a spare cord!) switch & mount it somewhere suitbale on your console. I think the yam "simple" controls may come with a "plug'n'play" deadman switch built in anyway. As a note, if you "T" off the current deadman, you will need to put a spare clip in the enfine switch, or it wonlt start! If that made no sense, post back, I am aware if you haven't got your head round it that could be confusing!
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