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Old 14 April 2014, 05:32   #11
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Eek! Not had that problem before. The design of the mercury QR fuel plugs - and the yam ones from memory- is that they positively clip in place with an indent in the barb that the metal lever mates with to prevent it working loose. The retaining spring force is pretty high - couldn't see how it would work loose or jump out unless the connector lock ring was plastic and worn, or lever was worn... I chose a solid brass connector on the filter for this reason

I recall using a cheap aftermarket connector on a portable fuel tank that suffered poor mating (I'm sure we all suffer from poor mating at one time or other ;-) )...it leaked if you wiggled it. not wishing to question the quality of your connectors of course Trevor!

The weakness I have with this design of filter bowl is the plastic water drain valve on the bottom (protected a little here with some poly pipe). I have diving weights and related paraphernalia washing around on deck all ready to snap the bottom off it. Time for a small protective cage methinks
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Old 14 April 2014, 06:26   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve-ribnet View Post
Eek! Not had that problem before. The design of the mercury QR fuel plugs - and the yam ones from memory- is that they positively clip in place with an indent in the barb that the metal lever mates with to prevent it working loose. The retaining spring force is pretty high - couldn't see how it would work loose or jump out unless the connector lock ring was plastic and worn, or lever was worn... I chose a solid brass connector on the filter for this reason

I recall using a cheap aftermarket connector on a portable fuel tank that suffered poor mating (I'm sure we all suffer from poor mating at one time or other ;-) )...it leaked if you wiggled it. not wishing to question the quality of your connectors of course Trevor!
I thought the same as you - that the metal spring clip should prevent it working loose. I used the same brass fittings that you have on your filter (are you sure that's your photo and not one of my old setup?)
Anyway - Back to A1an's original question...
What I ended up doing was to have a brass fuel pipe T before the filter - with two hoses going to the fuel tanks and in-line fuel taps in each hose so we could select which tank to use (or have both turned on).
With 4 fuel bladders around the boat and two plastic tanks under the seat it meant we could always have two tanks connected at a time and still swap them on the go.
Trev
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Old 14 April 2014, 14:39   #13
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I have same set up but the barb connector feeds the spare engine (one fuel tank- 2 engines. Also thought the connectors would be positively locked on but they work loose so mine are cable tied on around the connector.
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Old 14 April 2014, 14:54   #14
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A1an, I used my set up on a pair of twin 90s for a few seasons. It's a good rig and isn't expensive. You have a "clean" run to the main with little chance of a failure or air ingress, and also the option to switch to a deck tank with no unclipping. It can actually be done "on the fly"...

...although you'd need new crew though - the one from Easdale....

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Old 14 April 2014, 15:01   #15
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Oh look, I have a photo
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Old 14 April 2014, 15:35   #16
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Looks a good setup, going to try and rig something similar.

I only have 1 filter.
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