Quick Flush Question

1978SeaRider · 17 May 2010, 14:40

Hi,

Question relates to a Merc 2005 150hp Saltwater

I have traditionally used 'muffs' to flush my engine. However, I have just purchased a flush attachment which screws directly into the rear of the engine. I presumed this would be a better way ?

I have just read on a U.S. forum that the engine should not be running to use this attachement. Seems odd.

So, simple question really... should the engine be running when I use the screw in attachment to flush my engine ?

Cheers !

1978SeaRider · 17 May 2010, 14:52

Just searched the forum and found an answer... don't run the engine

Think I'll stick to the muff's !

jyasaki · 17 May 2010, 16:28

The attachment uses the hoses water pressure to circulate flushing water, as opposed to the water pump (with the excess pressure being released from between the muffs and the leg.)

No need to run the engine while on the attachment.

Interestingly, Suzuki used to have a video of flushing using the hose attachment, but showed the guy running the motor whilst doing so; haven't been able to find it for a while though.

jky

neilda · 17 May 2010, 17:47

The Yamaha recommends using the flush attachment and not running the engine (rather than muffs).. generally I stick to what the makers recommend.

gossy · 17 May 2010, 20:20

muff or no muff ............thats the question............. i say use muffs run engine

bradosh · 17 May 2010, 21:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by neilda

The Yamaha recommends using the flush attachment and not running the engine (rather than muffs).. generally I stick to what the makers recommend.

good point

i use muffs on mine but it does take approx 25 seconds before the fresh water starts pumping back out. ive been informed thats normal as its a big block

when i bought the boat it was from dry stack down at hamble point the guy used to tie up to the jetty turn the engine off .then tilt the engine until the prop was fully out of the water then like you connected the hose fitting to flushing devise for about 3mins
i just thought it was a alterative method of flushing the engine if you was on a mooring

going forward both options are available to me which method would be best?? for my engine

muffs or the flushing connection????

wavelength · 17 May 2010, 23:30

I always use the flush muffs as it seems to me that you are actually flushing the impellor as well as the block then.

bradosh · 19 May 2010, 21:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by wavelength

I always use the flush muffs as it seems to me that you are actually flushing the impellor as well as the block then.

I agree
using muffs covers all areas

Hightower · 19 May 2010, 22:02

How much time do you guys flush on the muffs? I always give it 5 mins

BogMonster · 19 May 2010, 23:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hightower

How much time do you guys flush on the muffs? I always give it 5 mins

Probably about 1 min when I did mine on muffs. A lot of fresh water goes through the engine in that time.

Nos4r2 · 20 May 2010, 00:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hightower

How much time do you guys flush on the muffs? I always give it 5 mins

About that.

kwil · 20 May 2010, 07:56

Code:

How much time do you guys flush on the muffs? I always give it 5 mins

I generally give it about 5 mins or until I can see the thermostats are working via the temp guage, so I know that the fresh water is reaching all the channels.
I only tend to use the flush port when on holiday and the boat is staying afloat in a marina.

Keith

9D280 · 20 May 2010, 08:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by wavelength

I always use the flush muffs as it seems to me that you are actually flushing the impellor as well as the block then.

I'm going to be controversioal here - as the impellor is a rubber item in a stainless lined plastic case, in ambient temps (I.e no heat to evaporate the ater & leave salty deposits) coupled with the fact that as soon as you turn it over any salt will be physivcally removed, do your really need to flush the pump?

I use muffs, but that's 'coz my museum doesn't have the block flush option!

Erin · 20 May 2010, 08:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9D280

I'm going to be controversioal here - as the impellor is a rubber item in a stainless lined plastic case, in ambient temps (I.e no heat to evaporate the ater & leave salty deposits) coupled with the fact that as soon as you turn it over any salt will be physivcally removed, do your really need to flush the pump?

IMV they wouldn't have designed the engine with a hose attachment if it didn't do the job properly. And furthermore, the impellor and housing are easily replaceable if they corrode. The engine jacket and waterways aren't.

Nos4r2 · 21 May 2010, 00:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Erin

IMV they wouldn't have designed the engine with a hose attachment if it didn't do the job properly. And furthermore, the impellor and housing are easily replaceable if they corrode. The engine jacket and waterways aren't.

Personally I'd replace the word 'properly' with 'well enough that it won't foul up too quickly and we won't get sued when some numpty gets his hand chopped off trying to put muffs on with the engine in gear'.

If the manufacturers were that concerned about corrosion,Suzuki wouldn't have made an entire range know as 'alka-seltzers' and we'd have teflon lined waterways by now.

Call me cynical, but what we get is what we pay for. It's not a bad thing-if we got the ultimate long life engines, we'd be paying far more for them than we do now.