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Old 04 December 2008, 14:54   #21
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Country: UK - England
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The engine is attached to the transom by the turnable screws at the front end of the bracket (don't know how to call these....), so no bolts are used.

So how can bring the engine up without drilling holes in the transom?
Or is it no problem to drill holes and later close them up again?
Ideal ! you can try different set ups without having to unbolt the engine allt he time.

I would just use some pieces of wood under the saddle of the transom bracket where it goes over the top of the transom to lift the engine 1/2" at a time.
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Old 04 December 2008, 16:24   #22
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ps. Bigmuz, don't want to be a know it all, cause I sure am not, but with Honda's VTEC is spelled VTEC and not VTECH.
..............................
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Old 04 December 2008, 16:36   #23
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..............................

Nice humor! Honda 90 thingy......... Great

Used to ride and sometimes dragrace a Honda Civic VTi with VTEC engine.
That's how I got my nickname, combination between VTEC and Vincent....
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Old 04 December 2008, 16:43   #24
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Ideal ! you can try different set ups without having to unbolt the engine allt he time.

I would just use some pieces of wood under the saddle of the transom bracket where it goes over the top of the transom to lift the engine 1/2" at a time.
Going to try this for sure. Think I'll better send a warning to my back for some havy lifting of the engine.....
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Old 04 December 2008, 18:02   #25
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but on tight high speed corners my prop sometimes hit's nothing anymore, well no water to be exact....
The engine will over rev, like when jumping.
Sometimes it's enough to quickly make the corner less tight, and sometimes I'll need to bring the trotle down and then steer in a straight line before it will go off again.
As prevuously said you are suffering from ventialtion. Drop the engine down the last hole to trim her in and level of the anti caviataion plate, however its more important to realise that this is more about driving style than rig set up.

Stop trying to take such tight corners at high speed
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Old 08 December 2008, 09:06   #26
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Even dropping it down one hole may be enough - I (finally) got the Merc out for a test run on Sat, it's also manual trim, so I put the pin in the middle hole , simply becuase it gave a visually similar angle to the old Yam.

Opened up got on the planre and promptly ventilated in a straight line! Back to the marina, pulled the pin, dropped it by one hole, and it now turns sharply with no issues, and bounced over a ferry wake quite happily. Remmeber loosing straight line speed is one thing, but if it ventilates (and therefore slows the boat) at the slightest hint of a wave, loosing half a knot won't affect your average speed.

I would get some lightweight string, tie your trim pin on (so if you drop it you aren't totally b*gg*red), and move the pin down towards the transom hole by hole until it stops ventilating.

If it's only letting go in turns just drop the trim pin in one hole. That will probably cure it. If not keep going 'till it's at the bottom, only then worry about unbolting & moving it - remember if it's still ventilating in the bottom trim pin, you'll want to go down relative to the hull, and that will involve the use of a saw!
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Old 08 December 2008, 10:16   #27
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Prop hitting air in water

Hi Vintec,Google Nauticus Smart Trim Tabs.These are high density polymer,with auto gas ram adjustment.Available from U.S suppliers more cheeply than locally.You will get better lift,less problems with trim angle,reduction in porpoising,higher potential speed and better fuel economy.Mainly though reduces the banking in cornering keeping the boat attitude more level and your prop in less aerated water,all for half the price of a premium strainless prop.They attach to the hull not the engine and so will be with you when you increase the engine size.
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Old 02 January 2009, 07:14   #28
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prop hitting air

sounds to me like the boat is chime walking.. from the pic you have one chime at the stern, when you are in a full turn under power the stern on the boat slides or "chime walks" causing calvitation and loss of power. The boat is not design for high speed turns. lowering the engine and fitting a different pitch prop will not solve the problem but will help eliminate a bit of the sliding. trim tads will help but the in combination with prop pitch and lower engine mounting. military and race boats have more than one chime at the stern and are thick. might want to think about slowing down or a different boat style..

safe boating always..
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