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Old 15 July 2008, 14:41   #11
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more photos!!!
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Old 15 July 2008, 20:47   #12
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The casing on B looks trashed-I'll be surprised if you can get it apart without cutting it apart. Best to get a manual and dismantle both g/boxes then make one good one. Use the casing from A.
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Old 16 July 2008, 04:33   #13
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Casing A is completely seized its almost like welded with salt water i have no idea how to get the bits out?? the shaft pole is just like completely locked into the casing!! The like weird shaped bits on the seized pole sitting in top of the casing i think that holds the impellar and also hides/covers a bearing type thing is stuck inside the top bit.

Basically the guy i got the engine off said to do the same thing. So i had a go at taking the bits out and if you look at the 2nd photo out of all of them, the yellow type bit lifts off and the other stuff but the like metal same shaped thing as the yellow one as like welded with salt water on so i had ago at lifting it off and snap bits of so i am left with like a circle like bit of that covering the bearing thing if you get what i mean??

Shall i just smash the rest of what is left with a chizzle because it is seized anyway?? or, because so i can get the pole out or??

Also if i do get that out do you think i will be able to use the bit next to the pole from that gear box that selects the gears?? or??

Thanks

I will put up a picture of the position i am in, I know what i did with lifting that bit up sounds stupid and it snapped but i was in the mood where i wanted to fix it, because it has just got to that stage an it may of gone a bit wrong but i think it would of happened to anybody really.

Thanks
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Old 16 July 2008, 07:04   #14
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Here is some more pics, gear box A you can see what i mean by the snapped bit and also how i get all the parts out i do not know??

Gearbox B i have photographed the bits on that which are not stuck like gear box A also i have taken a pic of what looks like a bearing, any ideas of how to get that an the pole etc... out...

Do i need a service manual an where can i get one??
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Old 16 July 2008, 07:06   #15
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Old 16 July 2008, 07:07   #16
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and a few more ---
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Old 16 July 2008, 07:17   #17
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Eli.Sorry to be blunt (and I apologise to everyone else here for my language but)

BUY A FUCKING MANUAL.

You don't have a hope in hell of fixing it without. You may have already trashed it to the point of not being able to fix it at all. The driveshaft WONT COME OUT like that-it's got a gear BOLTED on the end of it.

You have a PM.
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Old 16 July 2008, 07:30   #18
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Elliot,
I'll second Nos on the "B" casing comments - the bit that's welded holds the bearing housing in place! When you say the "A" case is siezed, do you mean the prop / shaft don't turn, or you just can't break into them?

The funny shaped thing round the long shaft is your water pump housing. The metal funny shaped thing in front of it is what holds the bottom of your gearshift rod & mechanism in place.

Here's a pretty pic of what's inside:

http://www.ishopmarine.com/ishop/sec/partlists/
Choose "Mariner" - then you get a list of every mariner ever made, scroll down & choose "55", pick any random chassis number & look at "gearcase". The "straght in" address link is too long to paste here! The prices are in Dollars, but they are also conveniently roughly what your local Yam dealer will charge you in .

If it's the pin I think may be missing, you'll probably need to pull the prop shaft out to get it back in.

Now, if the thing is siezed shut with salt, what to do is find a big bucket of warm water (cold will also work, but warm will dissolve the salt a lot faster), and steep it for a bit. Tap the bolt heads sharply with a small hammer as well before you try to undo them, that may help to release the salt bond in the threads. worth repeating the above steps a few times before trying to undo anything, otherwise you'll need to go buy a set of stud extractors! If you take the plastic wings off you might get it in a standard plastic kitchen bin.

I'm going by memory here, but is there not (behind the prop) a couple of screws to hold the bearing housing in place? (I may be thinking of my old Suz here) Undoing them should release the shaft assembly as shown on the link digram. If not, any chance of a close-up pic (i'm nowhere near mine 'till the weekend)

If you need a hammer to get anything out just replace the bearings as a matter of course - ball & roller bearings don't like impacts! Also replace ALL the seals - once unseated you'll be bl**dly lucky if they re-seal properly.
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Old 16 July 2008, 11:49   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EllWilcox View Post
Do i need a service manual an where can i get one??
Google "Clymer" - if you can't find a Yam one, for the purposes of this experiment the Mariner one that covers mid 70s/ early 80s will do -the Mariner 55 was a resprayed Yam.

Actual Yamaha info is quite difficult to find for stuff pre about 2002.

PS also noticed form the second set of pics you appear to be missing the trim tab anodes too. Probably explains a chunk of the corroded mess in there (unless you removed it yourself?)
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Old 15 August 2008, 09:31   #20
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How's this project going? Any success dismantling either of them?
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