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Old 09 July 2004, 08:07   #31
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Country: UK - England
Town: Beverley
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Length: 6m +
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Some Dorset / Dover blocks have a mechanical drive tacho from the output below the fuel filters, some have an adaptor to send the same signal as an alternator W connection. If anyone's looking for these ASAP sell them. Also a fair amount of stuff on their website for dorset / dover blocks, more than anywhere else.

http://www.asap-supplies.com/

I think they also sell the tinytach, or something similar, but from around £150 I think. Tinytach is about $65 in the US. I was going to get one here before I sold my hull, but my buyer has had a change of heart so the project's on the go again, not enough time now unfortunately.
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Old 09 July 2004, 08:49   #32
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Des, I think there are more than one type of Stern Drive cover. I had the square one but destroyed it by using full lock. I have seen others that have a curved cone shape over the bellows but dont' which is for what?

However, I have just had to replace both rams due to corrosion and the culprit was probably stainless steel bolts holding the cover on as the bolt holes and corrosion where very localised.

Pete
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Old 09 July 2004, 11:10   #33
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I think the two bits youíve seen form the total cover, a flat topped bit that screws to the transom housing and a curved bit that is jubilee clipped to the leg, least ways that whatís on my one. I am thinking about making the bit that screws to the transom.

The rams are a pig (is that mixing my animals?)because they are virtually isolated from the rest of the drive (cos of the rubber bushes). The Engineer in the Lancing Marine workshop said I should use earthing straps to connect the rams to the transom housing, havenít do it yet, but sounds like a good idea.
Des
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Old 09 July 2004, 11:33   #34
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Des making our own sounds a good idea, have to say that mine didn't fit at all well. Suggest they screw to the transom directly rather than the leg. A bit less day light might help keep the "creatures" from growing on my bellows although I am watching the thread on skin wax stuff with interest

Pete
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Old 09 July 2004, 12:14   #35
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Des,

When I was talking to Mike Bellamy at Lancing Marine, he suggested that an extra anode on the transom and wired internally to one of the transom shield mounting studs would be a good idea. I've fitted a 12" euro anode (MG Duff) to the transom next to the transom shield and wired it as said. Hope it helps! I like the idea of a continuity wire to the rams (same idea as Mercruiser etc).

Andy
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Old 09 July 2004, 16:07   #36
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p22

The widget under the fuel filters is a signal generator for the tacho. If anybody is considering replacing their tacho, i can put them on to a VDO dealer who has some really cheap 24 volt VDO ones that run off the alternator. They are compatible with all alternators and are simple to hook up. I think he was selling them new for about £20 - £30 each which is a fraction of what they should cost.

With regards to the rams, these corrode badly, normally the aluminium base where the two hoses go in corrodes first. This is partly due to the fact that the rams are as has been pointed out 'isolated ' electricaqlly from the rest of the drive. I am sure that fitting an extra anode directly to the rams will help combat corrosion, but i am sure that i remember chemistry at school which said that anodes still work quite well at a distance (hence the fact they are used on grp boats and wooden boats sometimes never connected with a wire, just screwed on to the grp).
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Old 09 July 2004, 18:21   #37
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Anodes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neville
but i am sure that i remember chemistry at school which said that anodes still work quite well at a distance (hence the fact they are used on grp boats and wooden boats sometimes never connected with a wire, just screwed on to the grp).
Not quite.

An anode has a radius of effect of about 12 feet but does need to be electrically connected to what it is protecting irrespective of distance.

On GRP boats the anode(s) should be electrically connected to the sterngear and this is something we check on a survey using a multimeter between the anodes and shafts / propellers / rudders / P brackets etc.

Wooden boats have a whole different load of problems and are often better off without anodes at all.


Regards



Duncan
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Old 10 July 2004, 05:26   #38
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p22

Does that mean that an anode will not work at all if it is not electrically bonded to what it is protecting?

I understand about connecting sterngear etc, but i thought that they did offer some protection when not connected, ie the electrons or whatever could still travel through water for a few feet. Its been a long time since school!
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Old 10 July 2004, 07:38   #39
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Anode bonding

No, needs to be bonded - hence the need for external bonding kits on Mercruiser drives and little anodes on all sorts of bits - trim rams etc.

Duncan
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Old 10 July 2004, 12:05   #40
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Any of you guys know where I could get a copy of a wiring diagram for the Pacific 22 please.

Thanks

Andy
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