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Old 14 June 2005, 08:17   #1
Ken
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Pacific 22 engine question

I have been reading through the Halmatic manual supplied courtesy of Jelly, and I noticed that on page 3.4 it refers to the air being drawn into the engine through an "air gauze".

I don't appear to have such a thing. If I look past the kill switch flap valve, I can see directly into the turbo charger and there is nothing to stop large items (leaves etc) being drawn in.

What do other people have?

Ken.
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Old 14 June 2005, 10:22   #2
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Ken hi,

Like you I have nothing to stop fingers, nuts or marbles going straight into the turbo. But being a Pacific and therefore "dead 'ard" it would probably not even notice

Asked the same question to Mermaid during there engine maintenance course (highly recommended) and they said don't worry boats don't need them like a car as you are not in dusty conditions.

Pete
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Old 14 June 2005, 11:24   #3
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Me Volvo has a proper air box and filter. Keeps the induction roar subdued too. Me Suzi 200 had a big hole....seagulls could get in!
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Old 14 June 2005, 11:46   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
....seagulls could get in!
But not out?
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Old 14 June 2005, 13:08   #5
Ken
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Pete.

There may not be a lot of dust at sea, but the sound insulation falling off the inside of my engine cover may be an issue!

Have read the threads about your console change (and jelly has told me about it!) and you are a braver man that I am! I actually quite like the standard layout, but I see how your alternative would be usefull for charter work.

Do you carry an auxillary engine? eg. outboard on transom bracket? and if so what size works?

I have the halmatic manual from jelly and I have the engine manual and sterndrive manual, but none of these seem to detail the wiring? any ideas? I don't appear to have anything connected to the fuel pump solenoid (the one that pumps lots of fuel in!) and there anen't any loose wires to connect to it either!

the auxillary power sockets etc are missing as well. I have had to use a feed directly from the batteries through a 24-12v convertor for the fish finder and gps, but this is a little crude and doesn't switch off when you turn the isolator off. A circuit diagram would be very helpfull.

Do you have a pic of the inside of the breaker box?

Ta. Ken.
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Old 14 June 2005, 13:26   #6
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wiring

I have a diagram if you need one but it does not have an exploded view of breaker box, but is quite easy to fathom out.

I dont have a filter over turbo inlet.

Anyone got a soleniod for turbo flap that they want to part with as ours has gone up the swaney

Wires on fule pump?? dont have them, got a mechanical lift pump.
only wires are the stop wirse to injector pump, but they have been cut off at pump.

Paul
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Old 14 June 2005, 15:50   #7
Ken
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my understanding was that there wesn't a stop solenoid on the injector pump, they have always had the cable operated pull handle. Perhaps the cut off wires are the ones on mine that are hanging with no home. I believe this is for opening the fuel valve on the injector pump fully to aid starting in cold climates.

Wiring diagram would be great, can you scan / email it?

Thanks.

Ken
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Old 14 June 2005, 17:39   #8
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pacc

Mine has pre heat on inlet maniflod
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Old 14 June 2005, 17:56   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken
There may not be a lot of dust at sea, but the sound insulation falling off the inside of my engine cover may be an issue!
Saw a piece of washing machine ducting used on a jet P22 to draw cool air in from outside the engine compartment which might be an idea.
Quote:
Do you carry an auxillary engine? eg. outboard on transom bracket? and if so what size works?
No don't carry an anx, must of the time is spent in the Solent but if I was venturing offshore alone then would consider a 10 - 15 hp mounted straight to the transom. You will have problems bolting the normal anx bracket as access to the underside decks on the outside is tricky.
Quote:
I don't appear to have anything connected to the fuel pump solenoid (the one that pumps lots of fuel in!) and there anen't any loose wires to connect to it either!
I am lead to believe that if you put 24 volts through the FIP wires you get 100% diesel flowing through the pump and a huge boost, but Lancing Marine did say hang on tight if you do it. I don't think they ae connected as standard.
Quote:
The auxillary power sockets etc are missing as well. I have had to use a feed directly from the batteries through a 24-12v convertor for the fish finder and gps, but this is a little crude and doesn't switch off when you turn the isolator off. A circuit diagram would be very helpfull
You could use the spare radio switch on the dash to supply a feed to the GPS etc. Mine still run straight from one battery through separate switches. Only left them switched on once but the spare batteries meant the engine started okay
Quote:
Do you have a pic of the inside of the breaker box?
Yep attached

Does anyone know how the pre heat works, it seems to be connected to the FIP return feed through some pipes without any form of control to activate it.

Pete
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Old 15 June 2005, 04:02   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete7
.....Does anyone know how the pre heat works, it seems to be connected to the FIP return feed through some pipes without any form of control to activate it.

Pete
Pete
Depending on how many components you have left there should be a small diesel reservoir above the intercooler which feeds, via a red hose, a low pressure injector on the inlet manifold. This injector incorporates a glow plug that just burns the diesel as it is sprayed into the manifold. this system is operated by turning the key to the third position and holding it for 20 seconds while thumbing the starter button. The amount of smoke this produces is unbelievable but thankfully you only need this system when it is very very cold
Ken
I fitted a 24v to 12v inverter in the back of the instrument box and as Pete7 suggests I used the spare feed originally intended for the radio, this is rated a 5 amps and has a dedicated breaker in the distribution panel. Des
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