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Old 03 June 2013, 15:08   #11
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thanks guys... gonna bring it to someone tomorrow and hopefully wont cost me much....
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Old 03 June 2013, 16:29   #12
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Yammie 4hp 2-strokes are practically bomb-proof. Before you put it in somewhere. Double-check the spark-plug. Extract it, dry it and then screw it back in. Ensure tank is vented.

On the carb, there should be a brass slotted head drain screw under the fuel bowl. Close the fuel cut off switch, then undo the slotted head carb screw and allow the existing fuel to drain out. Tighten it up, open the fuel switch and try starting it.
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Old 03 June 2013, 16:33   #13
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tks, will try tomorrow have it put away now.... will let you know how i get on
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Old 04 June 2013, 01:54   #14
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Have you checked your fuel tap ? I run all my two strokes out of fuel when I'm putting them away for a period all the time to drain the float chambers !
If the plugs are dry after attempting to start with the choke it suggests no fuel !
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Old 04 June 2013, 04:22   #15
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When you restarted, I assume it was a couple of mins after it ran out?

I can only think of 1 engine I have ever used that I needed to use the choke on a warm start. (and I then altered the idle mix to where it should have been!)


Thing with a small flooded engine is you have to pull the starter about 10000 times to "pump" the flooding out the cyls. To cure flooding you need to wide open the throttle, choke "off" & pull & pull & pull & pull till your arm gets sore! (and it takes twice as long on those because the neutral interlock only allows you something like 1/3 throttle.....)

Assuming of course that you flooded it!
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Old 04 June 2013, 11:57   #16
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If after choking plug was found dry, fuel is not being correct amount fed into combustion chamber. Remove interior fuel tank along fuel cock & carb fuel hose. Open air vent, open fuel cock. Check fuel flow, by gravity should be constant, if hesitates a bit, you have a fuel restriction between tank and carb.

The 4 HP model which has only the interior tank, has a inner small tube mesh located at bottom of tank (where hose connects) if thin mesh clogs and clogs easily with impurities, there's your problem. If there's a round filter along the line too, replace for a new one.

Fuel system should be cleaned periodically, take into account that you are sometimes buying impurities along fuel at service stations.

Happy Boating
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Old 18 June 2013, 10:24   #17
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still no joy with my motor, dropped it in to get the carb cleaned but when i rang back last week was told there was something else wrong that the mechanic couldnt fix...waiting for the owner of the place to have a look at it now... said if its anything big he will ring me before he does anything.... hope its nothing major as i only used it once
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Old 18 June 2013, 17:49   #18
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Hi, I am new too. New to boating; new to Ribbing; but not new to 2-stroke motors.
Check your fuel filler cap. First leave the cap unscrewed entirely (no smoking or naked flame please, or we may never hear from you again) and if the motor runs properly, then your prob is a vacuum in the tank. Some filler caps have an inner and an outer screw-cap. Tighten, the outer one back on & loosen the inner one. Job done.
HOWEVER...
If removing the filler cap made no difference, then you almost certainly have a blocked main jet. The function of the main jet is to atomise the fuel (kind of an aerosol spray effect) and it can usually be found inside the float chamber at the very bottom of the carburettor. Usually made from brass & with a hexagonal shape to it.
Unscrew the jet anti-clockwise & remove it. If you are not squeamish, put it to your lips and blow through it. Those who don't like the taste of petrol might prefer to use an airline. Alternatively run a fine wire or needle through it. Screw it back in; screw the float chamber back on & presto..!!
That should do ya...!!!
Cheers..!! Go easy on the gas...
Soulman, Belfast
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Old 18 June 2013, 18:03   #19
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P.S. now since the whole thing began with a refuelling situation... what do you think is the likelihood of it being the filler cap?
Certainly that's where I would look first..provided of course, that your friendly local repairman hasn't blamed some impossible widget and relieved you of 500 for the privilege of fixing it.
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Old 18 June 2013, 18:29   #20
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i have been told to run my engines dry to burn the fuel off the carbs

use a bit of choke but put it in as soon as it starts i,i find i have to play around a
bit till it gets warm

it`s a nightmare trying to start them from an internal tank ,i find i have to pull it a load of times to try to get the fuel through

check the sparkplug and you can check the coil with an ht tester too , i`m hoping it`s not carb related as trying to find someone who knows about floats and needles is really hard, if you get no joy i`m sure someone on the forum could recomend someone close
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