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Old 19 June 2003, 11:09   #31
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: Hissing Sid
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well without boring you all to death.........
I got my RIB back today after just turning up and getting it. The guy never did phone me. He is still saying it's the CDi even though it went ok on a sea trial but played up on the trailer upon return. I have just run it up in the garden and there is no problem, so I am still none the wiser! I left the boat yard about a hundred quid lighter having been without the RIB for over three weeks and on top of that it's still not repaired! Valuable lesson learned.
I am taking it out tommorrow for a sea trial myself and I will keep you all posted as to how it goes. I have a guy in the states trying to sort a CDi for me if required (100 compared to 300+vat here) and would just like to take this oppurtunity to thank everyone who answered this post, all replies have been very helpful. The saga continues...........
regards
Jizm
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Old 19 June 2003, 17:43   #32
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Jiz, if it's variable as you say, it's more likely a connection problem. Pull apart all the ignition connectors, one at a time, check them and replace them. Especially check the ones coming down from under the flywheel and the main ground at the CDI unit.
JW.
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Old 20 June 2003, 03:45   #33
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Jizm
looks like my previous got lost, if you've got a late 80's yam my manual minght cover it, give ma a call on 07970163580 if you want to borrow it.
Jelly
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Old 22 June 2003, 12:28   #34
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Thanks JW, that was my thinking and my next port of call. I have run the motor about 20 times since wednesday ,at all different operating temperatures, and the fault did not rear it's ugly head again. Have not had a chance to test it under load yet though so I'm not convinced.

Jelly, My motor is 1993 (the only useful info from the "outboard technician!!!"). I have ordered the relevant manual from amazon as they have just reduced most of the Seloc and Clymer manuals by about 30%. Thanks very much for your offer though, it is much appreciated.
regards
Jiz
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Old 22 June 2003, 12:52   #35
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Don't know about the yams, but the merc's can suffer with the flexi wires from switch box (Ign pack) to trigger (bit that rotates under flywheel when opening/closing throttle to advance/retard timing) breaking down when they get a bit long in the tooth, the wires get wiggled every time you operate the throttle, so eventually the strands break up. this may only show up when using enough throttle to give em wiggle!

just a thought.
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Old 22 June 2003, 17:48   #36
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Yeh, I agree. After eliminating all the obvious, start looking for broken things. If a wire has a broken core, you can usually tell by flexing it. It will often adopt a tighter bend at the damaged part.

Jiz, we're working a bit in the dark. Would you like to describe exactly the symtoms?

JW.
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Old 23 June 2003, 13:28   #37
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Basically I took it out about a month ago and the engine would not rev past 2800rpm no matter what! loaded/unloaded etc. I did plugs and fuel etc before giving it to a guy........ (another story). The motor sounded as if it was misfiring or running on two cylinders (it's a triple) but no matter what I did the motor would not rev past 2800rpm whether in gear or in neutral.
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Jiz
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Old 09 July 2003, 14:50   #38
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Jiz, What was the final outcome of this saga?

It's the ending which educates us.


JW.
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Old 09 July 2003, 15:40   #39
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Country: UK - England
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Well.....
I purchased a manual. Read and digested all relevant chapters cover to cover (fuel ,ignition, electrical etc). I then referred back to the posts in this thread, identified my engine from it's wiring schematic and began metering out coils, crank position sensors etc. Whilst doing this I found quite a few furred up crimp connectors around the CDi / coil area which I re-made/cleaned and lubricated. I then continued checking all connections and sorted them as necessary. Unfortunately the fault was not present at this time ( it had mysteriously gone away!) so I was not sure if what I was doing was helping or not but knew it couldn't hurt. All coils etc metered as per manual specified values, all found OK and within resistance tolerance.
Then I found the PINK wire. This wire was not connected at all but was a male crimp which could easily come into contact with everything in it's vicinity. I identified this wire as the alarm wire for the overheat/over-rev and low oil buzzer in the remote. Earthing of this wire also operates the REV LIMITER in the CDi unit to about 2000-2500rpm!! So although the fault was not present I can only assume that this wire was earthing out due to not being insulated and activating the rev limit. It wasn't sounding the buzzer because the previous owner (or remote installer) had only connected the overheat sensor to the remote unit and not bothered connecting in the oil sensor output etc ( a collection of pink wires with spare female crimps attached!). I followed the schematic, joining all available pink wires together and also linking in the green/red wire from the oil tank ( as shown in wiring diag). I have since run the engine in a test tank and had a sea trial, with (touch wood) no problem at all, in fact the engine seems to start much more easily and sound better than before. I am assuming the fault was indeed down to dodgy wiring and lack of maintenance on the connections. So let me take the chance to thank every one for their help and the moral of the story is don't be naive enough to pay some fool to do something that you are perfectly capable of yourself with a little patience , a manual and some advice from the members of RIBNET much can be achieved. I have also bought an old blown up yam 70hp to strip down to learn even more about the internals of outboards and from now on will be doing my own servicing aswell. Sorry about the length of reply, got carried away!
Thankyou all
Jizm
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Old 09 July 2003, 16:13   #40
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Cool. good fix see you on the water!
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