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Old 20 August 2004, 16:14   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucehawsker
How important is it to run the engine out of fuel each time? I use mine every three to four weeks. But it takes a lot of pulling to get fuel back into the carb if I run it dry.
I have a similar problem with my Yamaha 4hp 4-stroke, which incidentally has an integral tank. Due to the siting of the carburettor so far from the fuel outlet on the tank, it regularly takes up to 10 pulls of the starter cord to draw the fuel into the carb and fire the bitch up. I always run the carb dry after each usage and therefore have to put up with this problem, but I find it preferable to having petrol leaking out of the float chamber after I chuck it in the back of the car and asphixiating the occupants, which is what happens if you don't run it dry!

As JWalker says, the problem should be resolved in your case by pumping the fuel bulb to fill the carb before you pull the starter cord. I don't use a separate tank so I don't have that option.

The issue of stale fuel is interesting. Apparently normal unleaded goes off after 1-2 months, although I once left half a tank of fuel in my Yamaha for 10 months and it still fired up and ran fine when I came to use it. I did, however, top it up with fresh fuel which probably helped.
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Old 20 August 2004, 18:35   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
Doesn't pumping the squeeze bulb fill the carb?

No, not really. Still requires a worrying (have I flooded the carb again?) ten or so pulls
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Old 21 August 2004, 03:49   #33
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If you have checked everything, it may be the idle jet in the carb which has got blocked. If you run it in water it must be above the cavertaion plate. Hope this helps!!!
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Old 21 August 2004, 05:20   #34
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Fuel goes off faster in hotter temperatures, after a couple of months in cans at 40degrees it won't burn any more. Hopefully (unfortunately?) this problem will not affect most British users! The other thing for those of us stuck with old 2 strokes is that petrol breaks down the oil so the lubricating properties are reduced, hence the warnings about 'old' fuel. Should have said earlier that running the engines dry only really applies to 2 strokes that will not be used for say over a month, sorry!
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Old 21 August 2004, 12:40   #35
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top tip for engines with integral tanks.........

............... i can't claim credit for this but, we had the same hassles getting fuel through on our sib engine - yam malta.

Fill fuel tank with petrol tap closed, replace cap and close beather. Then shake engine to create a bit of pressure in the tank. now open tap first. the pressure pushes fuel through to carb. works well in my experience and doesn't seem to have any adverse affects

we're replacing this with a mariner 8hp as an aux for the ribcraft as it's a lot heavier than the little avon we had before. it is also the max our sib can take
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Old 21 August 2004, 16:33   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ribnwheels
Then shake engine......
Not sure about shaking a 4-stroke with all that sump oil slopping about. You can't throw small 4-strokes around with quite the same abandon as 2-strokes, because the oil gets into the top of the cylinder, soaks the spark plug and then you've really got a starting problem on your hands. In fact if I'd known how temperamental small 4-strokes can be, I'd have bought a 2-stroke. Furthermore, the pro 4-stroke argument about noise levels is largely irrelevant on this size of outboard and about the only thing I can say in its favour is that I don't have to pre-mix the fuel.
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Old 21 August 2004, 16:53   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Davies
Not sure about shaking a 4-stroke with all that sump oil slopping about. You can't throw small 4-strokes around with quite the same abandon as 2-strokes, because the oil gets into the top of the cylinder, soaks the spark plug and then you've really got a starting problem on your hands. In fact if I'd known how temperamental small 4-strokes can be, I'd have bought a 2-stroke. Furthermore, the pro 4-stroke argument about noise levels is largely irrelevant on this size of outboard and about the only thing I can say in its favour is that I don't have to pre-mix the fuel.
agree phil, mine is a 2 stroke. i would only have them as an aux engine purely because i know one day i would lie it down the wrong side and lose the sump oil..............bound the be the day you really needed it.

in terms of shaking it around, all i do is flick the engine left and right a couple of times within its steering range. i wouldn't imagine it would slop the smp oil around, but it is enough to stir the fuel
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Old 21 August 2004, 17:40   #38
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Its so not much the fuel "going off" as it is the oil separating and gungeing up that causes the problems with 2stroke outboards. With a four stroke you shouldn't really have any problems with stale fuel (you must have left your car for few weeks In an airport carpark and then gone back and started it fine without first having run it out of fuel? ). The problem with the integral tanks tends to be dirt deposits being added to the fuel tank from the filler can. Avoid using metal Jerry cans as rust particles can fall into the tanks.
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