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Old 06 May 2007, 08:26   #11
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Looks like me this morning in the front garden.
Cables all checked and look OK, battery switch replaced and ends retimminated just to be safe. All fuses found OK, not in gear, kill switch OK. Solenoid shorthed out (yes big sparks) but same as when you turn the key no joy just a cough from the engine and fly movws about 1/4 of a turn. There is sign the starter has been getting hot enough to melt some cable protector that was against it. Do we think this means its the starter motor? This has been a problem that i have had on and off for about 21/2 years now.
Oh and any good ways to get oil off the keyboard before the better half gets back. As always thanks for any help.
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Old 06 May 2007, 09:30   #12
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I had the same problem with an old merc blueband, refurb the starter motor, re-done the wires to the starter and fitted a new battery, still no joy. It turned out to be a fault on the battery cables causing a leak to earth.

It might be worth using some jump leads directly from the battery to the starter motor just to eliminate the battery leads as a possible cause. just make sure you get a good connection.

Good luck
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Old 06 May 2007, 09:44   #13
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Originally Posted by Turbodiesel View Post
What does mean?
It means I'm confused by your method of bypassing the solenoid. Maybe I should have used...
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Old 06 May 2007, 09:48   #14
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.. Solenoid shorthed out (yes big sparks) but same as when you turn the key no joy just a cough from the engine and fly movws about 1/4 of a turn. There is sign the starter has been getting hot enough to melt some cable protector that was against it. Do we think this means its the starter motor?
It's looking that way but I take it you can turn the engine by hand using the flywheel? With the ignition switched off! And kill cord removed to be sure...
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Old 06 May 2007, 11:24   #15
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It's looking that way but I take it you can turn the engine by hand using the flywheel? With the ignition switched off! And kill cord removed to be sure...
Yes it does turn John, have pull started it last season when i had the same problem one day (put it down to the battery then) but i have a bad shoulder so thats out for now.
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Old 06 May 2007, 12:53   #16
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I'm really sorry Neal that you still have this problem as I know what preperation you've done to get you RIB ready for the season ahead.

Unless someone on RIBnet that lives close enough to you, and with enough knowledge to lend you a hand, I would take it to your local/regular dealer to have to problem put to rest once and for all.

It's frustrating to have these problems and when free time is thin on the ground you feel like just giving up. I should know as I was in the same boat as you with my water ingress problem.

One last test you could do is to take the starter motor off and have a go at spinning it up.
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Old 06 May 2007, 13:33   #17
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One last test you could do is to take the starter motor off and have a go at spinning it up.
Is that the best way to test it Andy i am on a bit of a personal mission to sort this, well at least find the problem myself with the help of you lot would you know if is easy to get off, ran out of time looking at it today
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Old 06 May 2007, 14:32   #18
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Hi Neal,

All the above are correct and several of the above may fix any specific fault within the system. However, it appears that your system could be dodgy given the use of a 2nd battery. You may have any or all of the following ( from Battery through to starter)
Dead Battery (first battery)
Dead Battery (2nd battery)
Oxidised Connections on Battery, Isolation switch, Solenoid/Starter (one is the relay switch attached or wired through to the Bendix Drive (cog wih spring return ) unit.
Faulty or oxidisd Actual Isolation switch within sealed unit (happened to me last year)
Faulty Relay Starter Solenoid unit.

You could have several of the above.

If this is the case it may take several consecutive Serial attempts to fix to reliable status.
If you do not understand any or all of teh above, do not worry as none of the above costs alot and any Mec/Elec or Auto Wiring person will solve relibly and quickly without specialist advise. I do suggest tho that given the possible outcomes of the machine letting you down, you get it checked out.
An automotive Elec will not be as familiar with marinising and salt corrosion as a marine speciaist. I think its fair tosay that anyone associated with the briny life will know what salt water will do to connections and different metals, electrolysis and electrolytic deposition (two different metals in salt water will act as a minute battery and fuse together, some exceptions of course)
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Old 06 May 2007, 14:41   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neal View Post
Looks like me this morning in the front garden.
Cables all checked and look OK, battery switch replaced and ends retimminated just to be safe. All fuses found OK, not in gear, kill switch OK. Solenoid shorthed out (yes big sparks) but same as when you turn the key no joy just a cough from the engine and fly movws about 1/4 of a turn. There is sign the starter has been getting hot enough to melt some cable protector that was against it. Do we think this means its the starter motor? This has been a problem that i have had on and off for about 21/2 years now.
Oh and any good ways to get oil off the keyboard before the better half gets back. As always thanks for any help.
Sorry Neal, didnt see your reply.

Given that the Starter heats up without turning means Battery is ok and possibly the rest is too given it is transferring curent enough to heat it up.

i am suggesting that your Starter unit is "shagged" possibly initally seized or Terminals against the armature within. This unit needs to be taken out sent for overhaul to service centre. It may also have burned out some insulation from overheating which may represent a fire risk at sea.

I now suggest that you "bring the whole lot in" for safety sake.
Heat and Petrol (outside combustion chamber) does not make for happy news in general.

Better be safe than toast!!!
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Old 06 May 2007, 14:45   #20
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Problem with removing it is that you have removed the load from the starter, it will then use hardly any current to turn the starter and wont reveal any weak connections or cables on the power side, (faults which incidently cannot be seen with the naked eye). Dont like to repeat the good advice but please Try it with jump leads from the battery straight to the starter, first remove other connections from battery (the ones usually used to start the motor) then connect both the negative and positive leads to the starter ( it may not fire but should turn engine over) if this works you know its either a bad connection or the control side of the circuit( unlikely though with you having shorted the solenoid out). If it does not work then its either the battery or the starter, try a good battery, if still no joy then its the starter, remove and strip down , may be worn brushes, which are cheap to replace if not then send to a shop for refurb.
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