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Old 29 July 2009, 23:06   #11
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On the second note, it is a pull switch. According to you I should have full power!
Sweet.

I regrounded the main ground, but did not get to the switch to check the wiring. With the small baby on your hands there is just some sacrifices you need to make....none the less I did barrel test, engine was not willing to start, it got me a little upset. I decided to recheck for the usual fuel and spark. I started with the fuel and realized that the fuel hose was connected backwards, that actually "fixed me" as why there was no pressure present in the bubble from the start.

Anyways reversing the fuel line helped, the fuel pressure appeared and engine started in the first few pulls. The friken kill switch did not work. So now I know it is definitely not the main ground.

As per previous owner there is a brand new powerpack installed and the kill switched worked, but after several attempted refused...I'm thinking the problem is with connections or oxidation on the wires (that I can't see).

Anyone has a web link to the schematics of the tiller handle (type 3) with the kill switch located right at the top of the handle?
I want to take it apart and see if the actual switch might be the culprit.
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Old 30 July 2009, 02:36   #12
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On the second note, it is a pull switch. According to you I should have full power!
Sweet.

I regrounded the main ground, but did not get to the switch to check the wiring. With the small baby on your hands there is just some sacrifices you need to make....none the less I did barrel test, engine was not willing to start, it got me a little upset. I decided to recheck for the usual fuel and spark. I started with the fuel and realized that the fuel hose was connected backwards, that actually "fixed me" as why there was no pressure present in the bubble from the start.

Anyways reversing the fuel line helped, the fuel pressure appeared and engine started in the first few pulls. The friken kill switch did not work. So now I know it is definitely not the main ground.

As per previous owner there is a brand new powerpack installed and the kill switched worked, but after several attempted refused...I'm thinking the problem is with connections or oxidation on the wires (that I can't see).

Anyone has a web link to the schematics of the tiller handle (type 3) with the kill switch located right at the top of the handle?
I want to take it apart and see if the actual switch might be the culprit.

"If in doubt, link it out"

Try linking out the kill switch instead with a new piece of wire...
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Old 30 July 2009, 17:50   #13
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Tested the kill button and it works. I get the signal in the closed position and opposite in the open position. Also tested the connections for the ground and the plus (?). both worked.

I guess i have to leave with this, as I don't feel like spending 100.00 for new powerpack.

Is there anything I can do to make engine stop wile I'm falling out of the boat?
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Old 30 July 2009, 18:07   #14
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Is there anything I can do to make engine stop wile I'm falling out of the boat?
I would just retrofit something like this in addition to the existing dodgy circuit.
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Old 30 July 2009, 21:23   #15
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Thanks for the ebay thingy.
The actual switch works and wiring to the powerpack unit seems to be working as well.
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Old 31 July 2009, 03:39   #16
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Thanks for the ebay thingy.
The actual switch works and wiring to the powerpack unit seems to be working as well.
I'm not sure what you mean by "powerpack unit" - but my understanding is that these kill cords mostly work the same way - when you press the button or pull the cord it shorts out the electrics so you get no spark. To my simple mind - there was nothing clever going on, so if the switch and wiring both work as intended then it kind of has to work?
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Old 31 July 2009, 08:27   #17
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Powerpack is in a way a very simple onboard CPU, that is designed to manage spark comming to the engine. There are several wires comming out of it, and 2 of them are suppose to be connected to the killswitch. Once thise wires shorted between each other it makes motor stop. What is happening, is that even when you by pass the kill shitch and short wires - motor keeps running.
Since I cheked the switch and wires and with my voltmenter it had showing to be operation, it makes me think now that something inside that powerpack is malfunctioning.

As, well as I'm not sure if there could be anything else, other than the switch and the p.pack, that creates this "no kill" situation possible.
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Old 31 July 2009, 09:00   #18
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Powerpack is in a way a very simple onboard CPU, that is designed to manage spark comming to the engine. There are several wires comming out of it, and 2 of them are suppose to be connected to the killswitch. Once thise wires shorted between each other it makes motor stop. What is happening, is that even when you by pass the kill shitch and short wires - motor keeps running.
Since I cheked the switch and wires and with my voltmenter it had showing to be operation, it makes me think now that something inside that powerpack is malfunctioning.

As, well as I'm not sure if there could be anything else, other than the switch and the p.pack, that creates this "no kill" situation possible.
I'm probably asking the obvious here - but are the connection into the powerpack good then? is it a sealed unit - or can you check the connections on the inside?
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Old 31 July 2009, 09:23   #19
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To check the power pack connections you have to take the flywheel off. I might do this sometime later, as I'll be going boating this weekend.
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