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Old 10 August 2018, 03:38   #111
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: Sea Quell
Make: Picton Cobra
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Engine: Mercury 150 4 Stroke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucehawsker View Post
This from the guy who re-engined the boat. He has now spoken to Lee Fairweather who built the original boat with the Opti, and this is his reportback to me by email:

"The 6.5 was designed for the Mercury Optimax engine, this engine has a lower than usual cavitation plate so when repowering to the "newer" generation of engines the transom needs modification, this involves raising the transom hight slightly and letting the cavitation plate sit slightly higher than normal.

This would explain why you are getting more wash than expected.

We propose that when your ready for your first service we'll undertake the modification, this will be done FOC.

You will also need your "A" frame raised and we can do this at the same time. "

Any comments and advice how to respond would be much appreciated. A modified transom is not what I expected and I wonder what impact that would have if I tried to sell the boat?
I am not sure Mercury would agree ,,,, I have never heard of any issues or design with a 'lower than usual cavitation plate'

Over the two Ribs I have owned (both XL 25" transoms) the first had an old 2 stroke Mercury 125 HP and I upgraded to a XL Opti with no issue. I later raised it one hole based on different prop and power I suspect

I then re-used this on a new Cobra Rib with 25" transom and subsequently upgraded to a 175 Opt, - perfect fit each time with. I have recently changed to a 'more modern' Mercury F150 4S and use exactly the same mounting holes and position and its perfect. An XL is an XL and a L is an L

I smell something dropped by a four legged beast here. Sorry to say Bruce, but I am sure you need a L motor.

I definitely wouldn't want my transom or A-frame bodging. Think of the work needed to extended the A-frame - some of the electrics may need rewiring if there is insufficient slack - imagine if someone thought it easier to simply splice a bit extra cable in at the deck joint


Just a thought - do you have any paper work or can track down the dead Opti to show it was a L - the answer is there. Though just the serial number will enable any dealer to confirm what leg length it was !
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Old 10 August 2018, 04:44   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff View Post

Just a thought - do you have any paper work or can track down the dead Opti to show it was a L - the answer is there. Though just the serial number will enable any dealer to confirm what leg length it was !
Insurance certificate, harbour/marina registration ?
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Old 10 August 2018, 05:20   #113
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RIBase
Surely an Opti is also a Ďnewer generationí of engine. Leg lengths etc. havenít changed since they were introduced. Or even prior.
Bruce, is there any issue with you rejecting your new XL that youíve not mentioned ? Youíre clearly not happy / convinced / knowledgeable enough for your own liking and therefore should play safe and go back to square 1 with fitting a new £ xx k engine.
If youíve withheld payment then should be straightforward.
To have to modify your original spec transom (which worked perfectly well with a L shaft) is absurd.
I can understand the A frame issue being due to a different brand / shape cowling as my outboard also just clips mine when tilting full (and before you all jump on me - itís an original spec Osprey A frame and correct L shaft - itís purely the tall cowling design that causes it IMO).
The large majority of posts (by experienced members) all clearly advise to swap a L shaft with a L shaft. I see youíve started a new thread on props, but that shouldnít be part of your decision making regarding this.
After watching this thread for a couple of weeks now I canít help but wonder if thereís some fairly relevant info that hasnít been mentioned, for whatever reason.
Apologies Bruce if not, I honestly wish you a happy resolve, and hopefully itís happened already for you, if not then ASAP.
All the best
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Old 10 August 2018, 05:43   #114
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It is possible to change the shaft length gearbox and power head are all the same just a thought
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Old 10 August 2018, 06:47   #115
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If it was my boat and the wrong engine had been fitted and all was straight forward ie long shaft was on before and the dealer had out the wrong the wrong engine on I would stop using the boat and return it to them and have the correct engine fitted if you keep using the wrong engine with set up the dealer could say you are happy with the set up so my advice would be return the boat and let them make the first move !!?
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Old 13 August 2018, 16:38   #116
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Country: UK - England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pilotwillie View Post
{snip}

After watching this thread for a couple of weeks now I can’t help but wonder if there’s some fairly relevant info that hasn’t been mentioned, for whatever reason.
Thank you for all the many comments and advice. I can assure you I am not playing any games and have revealed (as far as I know) all the relevant info.

To recap:
  • Opti 150 was fitted by Fairweather when the boat was built in 2004
  • It blew up spectacularly earlier this year and I had to be towed back to Lymington
  • My local engineer who does servicing etc confirmed it was buggered
  • He agreed to sell the old engine for parts and find me a new one
  • After looking around he recommended a Suzuki dealer and obtained a good price for me
  • I asked him (not myself being an engineer nor having much clue) to oversee the re-engining project
  • There was discussion about which length of engine and I told him and the Suzuki dealer I was not expert and they had to together decide for me which engine was needed. I suggested contacting Fairweather directly....
  • I paid a deposit to the dealer and a consulting fee to local engineer
  • When the work was done, on the morning of the sea trial, the dealer mentioned the A frame problem. She was passed at the sea trial by the dealer's engineer who came out with us. I did not, regrettably, look closely at the wake....
  • On the way back into Lymington, well after we had dropped the dealer's engineer, a following rib mentioned the amount of water she was throwing up, and hence the starting of this thread
  • The dealer and the local engineer have been informed throughout of the problems (in writing)
  • I have paid an additional slug of money, but a substantial amount is being witheld. In addition, everything is on a credit card and I may reject the whole deal
  • Local engineer is suggesting a new prop after coming out with me in the boat last week - in an attempt to avoid the hassle {and risks of depreciation in value of the rib because of transom work}
  • Dealing is offering transom work FOC at first service (20 hours) to raise the engine AND raise the A frame
  • I am feeling very unhappy and let down by the experts in a field i knew nothing about and still know little

I am now trying to decide what on earth to do.
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Old 13 August 2018, 16:45   #117
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Mercury Serial Number

After dusting off my old papers I have found Outboard Pre Delivery Inspection on the Optimax 150.

OT919621

Can anyone tell me if this was a L or an XL?


I am asking the buyer of the scrapped engine to measure if for me but think he is on holiday....
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Old 13 August 2018, 17:11   #118
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Comes up as a optimax 150 DFI L which would be long shaft according to Google, someone with mercury access could confirm.

We keep saying it but you HAVE to measure the transom VERTICALLY!! before you can decide what to do for concrete answer, your dealer should have done that but perhaps someone had a Suzuki 150xl in stock they wanted shifting so the tape measure went for a burton.

I stand by what I said at start, that is wrong engine for your boat and pissing about with props is purely that, pissing about, it won't fix Jack and for goodness sake do NOT let them bodge your transom. Get the tape measure out and confirm the vertical length then decide.

You may have put yourself in a less powerful situation by paying a chunk and using the engine. I wouldn't pay a dime more nor use it again, don't even start it just now and I would absolutely contact the credit card company to at least alert them as they may not have paid the dealer yet.
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Old 14 August 2018, 00:50   #119
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Having looked at the photos and also being an owner of a Suzuki DF200 (for what itís worth) I agree that you have been supplied with the wrong engine shaft length. The gap between the top of the transom and the saddle on the engine bracket is enormous. It is quite likely the transom height is oversized for a long shaft so that the anti-ventilation plate is by default 1Ē or so above the keel. This is typically done by boat builders to maximize performance although there is a train of thought that Suzukiís should not be mounted too high due to an apparently larger than usual prop diameter. In my own experience I ended up raising my engine without any appreciable downside.
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Old 14 August 2018, 01:23   #120
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If it helps I have a long shaft opti 225 on a 7m rib. My cav plate is about 2 inches above the keel boat runs super fine. A lot will depend on how your rib runs on the plane, some are lower than others. The point I'm making is outboards can and do run a lot higher than they used to some years ago
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